i know most people say to go with the lt1 cam but i have a jegs with the edlebrock performer cam that is lie 129.00 for the cam and lifters... i am thinking about the cam does anyone like theres who have used it???

my mods are aftermarket chip... kn xtreme lid 1/4 injector pod riser. 3x14 open element filter. increased fuel pressure.
i may also have a catr back exhaust probobly dynomax... i havent been under there all the way to look. but it looks stainless steel and one ofe the pipes hangs down a little lower than the other one??? soon i will have the aluminum pulleys from march. xmas presant from the misses...

 

it is a non roller cam, i would just go with the LT1

 

as i am still new to the camaro seen and fresh from the imports what exactly is a roller cam??? and i know the performer one for the tbi has hydrolic lifters but i don't know exactly what that means except that they are not mechanical???

 

<b>Hydraulic</b> = uses oil pressure to keep tension on valvetrain.

<b>Solid</b> = solid hunk that requires different valve adjustment and a lot more often. Usually used for high RPM (+6500) racing apps only.

Each of these options are available as flat tappet or roller.

<b>Flat tappet</b> is just flat steel that slides over the lobes on your cam. More friction.

<b>Roller</b> has a bearing on the bottom of the lifter that rolls over the cam lobes and allows for a much more aggressive angle on the lobes which opens the valves to full lift faster and much less friction. Roller cam also requires retainers of some kind to keep the lifters straight in the hole.

Less friction and faster valve opening = more hp on the same duration and lift.

 

id say go with the LT1 cam. best bang for the buck on cams. you can get them from ebay most of the time. i got mine for 35 dollars

 

on a 15.4@90mph, 2.25 60ft. LO3, what would a 95-97 lt1 cam do for it? The specs are 201/208 @.050 and .447/.459 lift, corrected to .477/.489 with the 1.6 roller rockers Im using. Car has T.E.S., performer intake, 13psi fuel, and JET stage II chip. Drivetrain is 2200rpm stall TC on a 700, 3.23 posi, 225/60/16 radials. Cam is in the mail, just wondering if I could break into the 14's.
Also, I heard these cams work best in the LO3 when they are 4* advanced. The timing chainset has -4*, 0*, +4* positions, should I just put it in the 0* position? I've never degreed a camshaft before, but if all I have to do is put the sprocket in a different keyway, I think I could handle that.

 

Pretty sure you'll break into the 14's. I just got mine done and now I'm gonan do some other odds and ends to it and tuning it. Pulls alot stonger.

All you do is line the dots up on the gears before you put it in .. then adjust base timing with the est unplugged to at least 6*. I did but i think i need to go more.

 

if you went ahead and did a custom chip along with the LT1 cam, im sure you will be in the 14s

 

Sounds like the LT1 cam does the trick for these motors, huh.

If you line up the dots on the gears, I believe that would make the cam timing 0*. Any alteration to that is called "degreeing your camshaft". Most cam chain gearsets have keyways to advance the cam +4*. This is independant of ignition timing. Is this reccomended when using the LT1 cam? And is that all there is to it?

Deadtrend, I see your drivetrain is practically identical to mine, except for my 3.23 rear and automatic. what kind of odds and ends do you plan on doing, now that you've got your cam?

 

i thnk deadtrend is talking about a stock replacement timing set. teh fictory sets normally only have one set of marks on them. the performance aftermarket ones are where teh multi do thting usually happens.

later
tim