sorry for double posting first of all, but no one reads the ecm boards lol

ok heres the problem, car idles like crap after a head swap, so after checking pretty much everything usual, ..plugs, wires, compression etc. everything checked out fine other than the timing being set super high --thinking the balancer slipped--
so heres the specs taken the moment the car messed up during idle. lovely capture feature. the car will run fine for 15 mins, regardless if its cold or hot. after 15 mins or so, it starts acting like its running super rich and chokes down for a second, then corrects itself, ..this progresses there after on one minute intervals until its finally choking every 5 seconds and about to die;

idle air meter position: 0 steps
MAP sensor: 1.39 volts
htrottle sensor: .064
integrator: 126
oxygen sensor: 831 mVolts
knock sensor: 0
block learn: 103
manifold air temp: 158
async mode: off
rich/lean flag: rich
Loop status: closed
air switch solenoid: off
air divert solenoid: off

No touble codes came up.

to clear up anything i did remove the smog pump and sensors, also the fan temp switch is not in the block, the heads had a plug type deal in the fan temp switch and i couldnt get it out due to it being rusted in . machine shop wanted over 100 to take it out, i said screw it.

ive sprayed all around the manifold with cabr cleaner trying to see if it would bog the engine down in a certain area, but no bogs. all vaccum hoses are new.

so yall tell me. cause im clueless.

 

Your BLM's are way off.

 

blm's??

 

block learn: 103

thats your BLM's they should be 128. at 103 that means your o2 sensor is reading you being dead rich. could be a bad o2 sensor, or you could have a miss. or you could have some other issues and actualy be running that rich.

 

o2 sensor is brand spankin new....got it last night before i scanned it.

when its running right, for the first 15 mins, it is at 128, ...those specs were taken at the exact moment the car was messing up.

gotta love the capture mode.

i only wish this thing showed timing specs so i could see more in depth what the problem really is

as i said befre it runs perfect, for the first 15 mins after i crank it, no matter what the engine temp is. after 15 mins it goes to the pot. wtf would cause this???

 

so heres whats going on after warm up. the o2 sensor readings fluctuate from as low as 70 to 800 mVolts. lean/rich indicator going from lean to rich in 1 second intervals. Idle air steps were at 28 steps, engine idle at 900 rpm. then i shuit the car off, then i cranked it back up, idle steps were at 50 til it idles down and then went to Zero., i reved the gas, it went up to 8 steps at 4000 rpm.

map sensor 1.37
integrator: 126
block learn 112 ...was at 94, then changed when i shut the car off.

loop status was closed.
air switch solenoid was off
air divert was on


of course all these variables fluctuate as the cars idle drops randomly from 900 to 775 then corrects itself.

that is basicly the problem, why cant i maintain a normal idle.

 

it is doing that because you have a BAD sensor of some sort, it runs fine when it is cold, because you are in open loop, so it goes off the pre-programed fuel tables/spark tables. when you go into closed loop at 170* or so, it start to adjust those tables based on the O2, MAP, TPS, IAT, and coolent temps, ect. if you have a sensor that is giving bad data, the computer is going to try to correct. and it will make the engine run like crap, because it is going over compensate on fuel, or spark.

your o2 fluctuating is normal, it shild flip back and forth between rich and lean. since i am at work, i don't have the converstion for the MAP sensor handy, but you might check that, if you either don't have enough vacume, or if your sensor THINKS you don't, you are going to have a bad idle.

EDIT, just noticed this...

block learn 112 ...was at 94, then changed when i shut the car off. if it was at 94 while running, you have something WRONG. double check everything, sensors all pluged in, firing order, plug wires connected, spark plugs, check your timing and FP, ect.

 

all my sensors are pretty much new, tps and engine coolant temp sensor were replaced last night. iac is new as well as plugs, wires dist, ignition module, cap coil, rotor. every sensor that i can see has been replaced cept for the knock sensor. o2 sensor was replaced yesterday.

firing order is correct, all wires going to the right plugs, all wires are good. could my IAC be bad even though its brand new???

my car ran perfect before the head swap. i swear all this is because i removed the smog crap.

 

ARRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGG @#$@#%$#%@#$%$#%$#@%$#@%@$#%$#%#$% SOB!!!!!!!!!!

ok , had to get that out, ...lets just start by saying, i had a friend bring his perfectly running 92 rs 305 over, and i started pulling sensors.

here is what i put on the car with NOTHING making a damn difference.

ignition module...coil..MAP, IAC, TPS, o2,oil pressure, coolant sensor on the manifold, engine temp sending sensor on the drivers side head, put the fan sensor in the plug *just not in the head* re checked the timing, every plug is perfectly gapped to .40 , all wires are new, NO vaccum hose leaks, no manifold leaks, tested it by spraying carb cleaner all around the intake ports, never bogged.

im getting no error codes now, and the block learn still sits at 95 after warm up. idle steos still Zerointegrator was at 131..
Closed loop.

HEH!!!!!!!!!!
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