I was talked into buying a Turbo C TBI, but I could not get it to run right and it ran very rich left black where ever I started it etc.

They offered me a rebuilt stock one and my money back which means I will be back to a 500 CFM. I believe I will have to set TPS and wondered how hard it was to set TPS and if I should borrow a Scanner tool as I believe you check idle and WOT.

Stock rebuilt 4 bolt main 350 with a small cam 212-218 444 Lift, balanced and HYP 40 pistons around 9.2-9.25 compression. Did not do the math but using HYP H345NP Pistons with 76 c heads shaved .020 amd smaller .015 gasket.

 

What kind of tuning have you done. I bet there wasn't anything wrong with their unit. I bet your tune is really off right now and adding that TBI unit made it completely worse.

 

Before adding new TBI, it ran good. One we changed to 580-590 CFM just did not seem to run right and all they said was to check fuel pressure, which we did and installed ACDelco fuel pump when it went bad.

I am not sure how much difference 500-580 would make with SR Pro Topline heads, 1.94-1.50 valves as never put on 2.02-1.60s yet which are Torker style older port style.

Pickup a multimeter gauge and will do it myself as shop was suppose to gotten it running or did not set TPS. It just idle dirty and when heads were pulled to shave fuel of carbon to point that I had to clean heads of build up and shaved plus used Fel Pro 1094 to get better quench, 65 before, now 40 and more compression and should be more efficent.

Had new distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs but fuel pump did go out and never moved stock TPS setting until we got new one.

 

I geuss what i shoulkd have asked was what kind of chip work have you done. Your mods are extensive and your problems are in the stock chip settings.

 

They sent me a modified chip with TBI but once I put it in, it about the same as stock chip. Not sure how much cam and compression give and take from each other and with more compression at time I was told that extra compression would help keep vacuum up. Motor has not started since head changes for better quench and compression, which is why I am looking at fuel pump after checking grey wire that turn on fuel line at tank and at firewall as well as fuse and Fuel Relay which is new. Fuel pump start getting where it ran but hardly made a sound unless taken out and acted up before. We drove it across US with other lower compression heads and wanted to look at getting into chip changing and getting read out once it ran then it just stopped. I am hoping fixing fuel pump, setting TPS, timing as Comp Said will get it going and it's always ran just rich because I was sold 76 cc heads and told they were 67 cc heads.

Turbo's chip well all I could fiind is more advance and Comp cam said to set it around 8-10 advance, which 8 got no fluctuation at Idle. Turbo's chip seem very disappointing and told I need to learn to make one myself, but ALLwin does not read from listings my computer, 16168625

Let me know what else you want in case I miised your question to much.

 

No you didn't miss my question really. I would make sure that fuel pump is putting out at least 15psi. If not, you will have problems. Your problem still lies in the chip. It really doesn't matter what parts you have or what they are supposed to do to the detail that you are getting into. The stock settings in the chip are very weak and cannot support fueling and spark with even a minimal amount of mods. You will have to change the fuel tables and timing tables in the chip to make your combo run the way it should. All of the old school means of tuning can't really be used on TBI set-ups. Adjusting the fuel preussre and idel alone won't cut it unfortunatly.

 

Some I have been reading at web sites and under other sites such as ALDLwin.com, https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/for...s=&forumid=16, etc, just reformatted and have to reset favorities to sites to learn more about pulling tables and making slow changes.

I wish I had a lap top but some of it I read about as others did similar things to turbo charged corvette, CT Grumpy's modified chips to run 268 and 270 durations with 110 LSA 13s corvette etc.

I have a baby cam made for a computer car which I hope to learn as chips that are piggy back suck in my opinion about 25 percent of what I want as I will need WOT etc. TPI motor I have in other car is a lot less hassle, but I can not learn if I don't try! I know it ran descent but rich and will get a reading from computer with cord to OBD plug in and hope learn as I go. I can always make changes and have original settings saved else where.

 

This site seems to have a lot more info in your tech part then I knew of and said a pocket programmer could be used.

One site I used, said they used a lap top and programmer, but since I don't have lap top I am just trying to figure out if that makes it that more off.

I HOPE NOT! I do need more equipment and can only set basics with Multimeter or scanner, any difference or maybe scanner is better. I have access and multimeter, but I can leave a deposit at auto parts store who will then allow me to use scanner for 24 hrs and refund money.

It was before I went into hospital and formating that I found such sites and still looking for others, thanks for the insite! One site I forgot about was tunercat and something weasle.

 

Sounds like you are getting the jist of it now. You can get lap tops on ebay for about 30 bucks. You only need a really primative version of windows and minimal ram and processing power.

 

5.7 Motor and a 4L60E and trying to figure what voltage to set and wire to set with using multimeter to adjust TPS correctly and if voltage increases as WOT etc.?

I just about forgot about this now.

Any ideas?

 

Here check out this tech article.

 

I was not sure where VOM or what wire/Pin was used to get readings. First, second or third pin, or which color wire went to pin used to get readings same difference. In other words, there are three pins in TPS which one is the one you test?

If scanner is needed, I have to leave them 210.00 dollar deposit and get it back as long as I return scanner in 24 hours, VOM is in my vehicle already.

I assume this starts low and goes higher as WOT with out starting just pushing TBI throttle. It seems to be a wide range, 0.54Volts +/- 0.075Volts, .465 range or did I miss something: Got a little rushed between two vehicles but below may be of interested to others!

Also, TPS are suppose to been set factory and guess use scanner to check voltage goes up as throttle is open:

On 1993 5.7 the TPS is a not-adjustable sensor.

Terminal A is the 5 volt reference
Terminal B is the tps sigal (reading back to PCM)
Terminal C is the ground

Voltage on wire B (circuit 417) (dark blue wire) goes up as throttle is opened.

Take your voltage reading on the middle wire (Dark blue) connected to terminal B.