Got a question about fuel pressure...
Since I have had my car it has had this extended cranking before start-up, and the fuel pressure does not hold after the car is off. I have been lead to believe that it might be from a faulty check ball in the fuel pump.
I have the Actron Fuel Pressure Gauge setup, and when I block the return line, fuel pressure holds. I have also made my regulator adjustable. I adjusted the regulator to increase my fuel pressure. When I started car, and saw no change in fuel pressure. Then, thinking that I must have turned the adjustment screw in the regulator the wrong direction, I turned it all the way back down (least resistance). This also provided no change in the fuel pressure after engine was started. (9-10psi and new fuel filter)
Any idea as to what is going on?

 

Sounds like your pumps on its last legs. They tend to die in these cars.

 

i have also this Actron gauge.
today i changed my stock regulator to the JET adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
stock was 11,5 psi
and now 15 psi and the afpr is not on the max
Tom

 

Damn, I was afraid someone was gonna tell me that...

EDIT:
I posted a direct link to an ebay auction, then realized that is a no-no.

There is this seller on ebay (xtrem-fi) that sells a HP TBI pump that claims 25psi, and offers a 1 year free replacement warranty for like $59 with shipping. Think this is a good replacement pump?

 

That's not bad, but personally I would go with a trusted pump. I'd get the Walbro 190lph pump if I were you, it's like 80 bucks I think. I was going to say check: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ but I just saw that they apparently don't offer it anymore, anybody know anything about that? I'm sure you can find them elsewhere though for around the same price.

 

mine bleeds down to 3-4 lbs when key is turned off. same with key on. will not read 16 lbs till engine starts. i would think blipping the throttle will result in increased FP however.

 

what does an aftermarket TPI pump sell for?

 

They still offer it .

http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...ml/fpapps.html
Part number: FPG001

 

ah cool thanks for the link BenM. For some reason its listed as "N/A" when you look for "pumps only" I guess you have to get the kit.

 

holly,12-914 or inline pump 12-920--------have same specs as other noted

 

I wouldn't get an inline pump when the stock pump was in the tank and can easily be replaced with a much better pump than stock, that's just my opinion though.

 

Wow, now I've really got some choices, lol.
I've been reading some of the posts that deal with fuel problems, and it seems that I am in for a pretty good deal of work to replace this pump. What is going to be the hardest part(s)?
I looked under the car today to see what I am getting into, and when i look at the sending unit(?) (thing with the metal lines coming off), i see they are all rusted. What is the best penetrating fluid to use to try and get these fittings loosened, without breaking the fittings or lines? I have heard of PB Blaster, WD40, and Free (some brand a friend gave me).

 

PB Blaster is your friend . Spray it on any bolts or lines that you are going to remove and let it set for a while. If you can, spray some a couple days before you start.

I haven't replaced a fuel pump in a 3rd gen yet (although I do have a Walbro 190 sitting in the garage ), but it seems like the hardest parts are just lowering the rear end enough to get the fuel tank out and not bending the filler neck when you actually do remove the tank. Everything else seems pretty much straightforward.