I want to convert a carb 305 motor to run in place of a stock 88 tbi 305. What cam should I get? Is there a mild performance/RV type I can use without needing to re-tune the computer? Right now the car is a box stock daily driver. I may add headers and new exhaust down the road but that would be it for mods. I don't have the ability to do chip tuning.

 

if I remember correctly, hydraulic setups have a better reaction to higher lift/duration cams than flat tappet(idle wise, round town wise), but a flat tappet cam will make more power than a roller will of the same specs, so my suggestion would be to go with a similar cam to what you would've gone with on a roller block, and if given the choice, go with the SLIGHTLY lower lift/duration one.

but this is all hunch, I can't say for sure..

the good news is, if I'm wrong, tons of people will correct me(and give their own opinions) in no time at all!

 

Freeloader, please if you don't know the answer don't post it. It can confuse teh day lights out of people when 2 people completely contridict each other.

There are flat tappet and roller cams, then you can use either hydraulic or solid versions of each. Hydraulic cams use oil pressure to self adjust, whicle solid lifters need periodic valve adjustment.....leave the solid lifters for race motors.

The ecm is very intolerant of cam changes without tuning, I suggest you get something very close to 200 deg duration let the lift numbers fall where they fall. Any more than that and you'll have to have chip tuning. You'll still benefit from tuning, but you won't need it to make it across town like you will with something in the 210 range. You would probably be ahead to use whatever stock cam is in the flat tappet block and spend your money elsewhere. You should take a second look at chip tuning, it's not that hard and the gains can be substantial as you start to mod.

 

Sorry, I may not have explained myself properly. ( look my wife has me trained to say that!)

I have a non-roller hydralic flat tappet motor (305) I need cam part and model numbers (because I have no Idea what cam is in the motor now)

I realy need to know part numbers to get. I have heard summit,Clevite and a few others have lower priced RV cams that could be used without tuning.

If I get the cam and motor swapped and running right I will put on better exhaust and then attempt tuning. I already made the ALDL cable and I should be getting an old laptop soon to at least log the data and see whats going on.

Right now I need my daily driver up and running so any part numbers would be great. Especialy if I can get them from A mail order house or my local Auto Zone or Advance auto or Summit or even a new one off e-bay.

Thanks and I can realy use the help

 

Summit 1102.. 204/214@.050 112LSA .420"/.442". it runs fine w/o a custom tune, will run better w/ one. that's the one I've got in my truck right now. being in a much lighter camaro, you could go with the 1103, which, iirc is a 214/224@.050, but you're getting towards the edge of what the computer can run well enough.

the K1102 kit comes with cam, lifters and assembly lube for ~$79.

 

Bingo

 

Thanks that sounds like the ticket. How much of a differance did you notice over the stock cam?

 

That same cam is available in as a Mellings,it's called the MTC1.
I put one in the 305 in my 92 4x4 pickup,along with a set of cheap Flowtech headers,and custom,3" single exhaust,no cat and single in dual out flowmaster,and it runs great with no tuning.I know it would be tons better with tuning,but as far as the cam goes,Fast355 put me on to it,and it's a perfect daily driver cam,lots of torque,good idle,I wouldn't use anything else in my application unless I learned a whole lot about burning chips first.

 

I am glad to hear that your build turned out well. I did not know you had completed it.

I used almost the same cam in my first TBI 305 build almost 3 yrs ago (Federal Mogul CS1014R). With the ported 601s, Holley Projection intake, ultimate TBI moded TBI, 305 van 1227747 ECM, 61 lb/hr 350 injectors, Extremefi VAFPR (20 PSI @ WOT, 10-11 PSI idle), headers, and true 2 1/2" duals without cats. It ran great for a no tuning required engine. Sure it would have run better with tuning, but it got me around town fine. The VAFPR was key to making it all run correctly though. I made 158 RWHP @ 3,500 without it and 193 RWHP @ 4,800 with it. The idle was slightly choppier than stock, I still passed smog, and was getting around 18 MPG on average.

I then turned around and used the same intake, heads, and a MTC1 cam on a 350. The results were the same great running engine with about 40 ft/lbs more torque.



The DD2000 graph is below from my engine. 245 FWHP is roughly 200 RWHP which is about on par with what it made.

 

Got about 4500 miles on the setup,not a single problem or complaint!Can't thank you enough for the advice

I'm planning on getting chip burning stuff before long,I just hope I am savvy enough to do anything with it.I understand the mechanical aspect of things,but figuring it all out in computer terms may give me fits.

I'm hoping that given good time to learn,I can pull off a Duntov 30-30 solid in my otherwise stock LO3.After all that,I'm gonna peel out in the shop!

Sorry,couldn't pass that one up.I was serious about the chip burning,I'm sure you'll all know when I attempt this.

 

well.. it made a big improvement over the cam that was in it.. my truck's engine was a reman 350 roller motor (that I didn't discover until the engine was completely apart) with LO3 heads on it. it used to hit a HUGE brick wall @3500rpm. with the summit cam the powerband is sooo very much smoother, it actually pulls all the way up to the tran's 4500rpm shift point.

if I had known it was a roller before I took it apart, I would have went with an LT1 or L31 cam, but I'm still pleased with the results, esp when the swap solved a lot of small issues (bad balancer, worn chain, bad valve seals, oil leaks, start up clatter, and heater hose coolant leaks.)

next step for me is an EBL.

 

Thanks for the help, I ordered the cam its on its way. Now I need to find a VAFPR. Who is Extremefi and how can I get a vafpr from them? I can't find the GM one anywere.

 

i would not consider a vafpr until you are comfortable tuning. not certain if the GM vafpr is able to maintain resonable WOT FP. you will need to swap out springs. you would almost need an electric FP gauge and a WB to tune. 1/4 mile drags may be a suitable use but autocross may not work. as a side note running OL with a vafpr may be a good thought. maybe some one else here agrees?

 

So I don't need the VAFPR?

Now I'm confused!

But then again I assumed and you know what happens when one assumes!

I saw that fast355 stated the vafpr was the key to making his modded LO3 work without tuning. That's pretty much what I want to do. As far as modding my car. I,m turning an 82 (maybe 79 i cant tell) motor into a TBI motor with the same cam he used. (summit k1102) After a while I will add headers and good exhaust. At first I will be using stock exhaust with manifolds. So I assumed I would need a vafpr to help the motor run as good as possible without a tune untill I can afford to do it right.

So should I get the VAFPR for my daily driver or just mod my regulator to manualy adjustable for now?

 

did Fast state he used vafpr without tuning? i did not read his comments careefully. i tried the vafpr as a substitute to tuning and it was a total failure for me anyway. i will suggest i had sufficient fuel at WOT maybe too much. i had no way of knowing w/o a WB. it was not at all expensive however. after selling it i will suggest my cost was $25 OOP.

 

I'm so glad you posted that, when I first read it I thought
This is why I only give advice when i'm 100% sure..........
Good post......

 

gimme a break, one of the best ways I learn is when someone corrects the **** out of me.

besides, I wasn't compeletely wrong, I was wrong in general, but I believe I was actually describing the difference between hydrualic and solid, wasn't I?

I should've been describing the difference between flat tappet and roller, but still, I wasn't completely talking out of my ***.
----------
actually, I should've been suggesting cams, but had I recognized that as the question I wouldn't even have responded at all, THAT I'm not even informed enough to take a guess at.

 

I guess you learned alot then......

 

watch it, bub.

 

Watcha gonna do kick his butt over the internet......Seriously please be considerate of others. Yes YOU will learn alot by having people correct you but it's rude to others and makes it hard for them to learn. This site is for poeple to learn as a group, so play nice or I'll make stand in the corner with the other 3rd graders.

 

actually, I said watch it bub because I don't mind a joke at my expense when I mess up, but when you get to the point of just being a ****, there's no need.

I realize this site is for information, and I took a shot. I was wrong. not entirely, but enough to cause problems, and when asked, I stepped down.

if you notice, I didn't respond to the rest of this thread until someone had mentioned me again, I'm not out to pick a fight.

I just don't think there's any reason for people to spend literally pages on a thread talking **** to eachother, nobody wants to read it, and I don't need the unneccessary emails of responses.

I said watch it bub, because while I don't mind a poke at me when it's all in good fun, I'm not really cool with someone just posting a message to be a jerk.

I don't see how I'm being a 3rd grader here, I put out what I thought MIGHT be the right answer, I wasn't completely wrong in what I said, just got a few things jumbled, and when asked, I stopped. how exactly am I in the wrong here?

 

The horse is dead..........
Lets get back to cars.....

 

sweet.