I am going to get the Edelbrock TBI intake and I wanrted to know how hard is it to install. Is removing the distributor the hardest part. I want to do this myself to save money. Is this a simple mod for the do it your selfer. Is it just simple tools, knowledge, and a good afternoon? How does it fit. Does it fit right in?

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1990 RS 305 TBI T-5
.5" turbocity spacer
Summit 14X3 OpenElement W/k&N
Hooker 3" Areochamber
MSD - Wires, Cap, Rotor, Coil
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
Metallic Red w/28,000 Pampered miles
(Still have the original wiper blades)

 

the edelbrock tbi manifold is a perfect fit for stock and takes like an afternoon to do. although i took like 2 days because i tok my time and was careful. it is not that hard to do just make sure the motor is on tdc and firing for #1 and then yank the distributor. you should be fine.

 

How do you check for dead center and firing for number 1?



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1990 RS 305 TBI T-5
.5" turbocity spacer
Summit 14X3 OpenElement W/k&N
Hooker 3" Areochamber
MSD - Wires, Cap, Rotor, Coil
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
Metallic Red w/28,000 Pampered miles
(Still have the original wiper blades)

 

You dont need to put your crank anywhere specific. Just use a marker and mark the posisition of your rotor relative to the distributor body. I suggest you pull the cap with the wires attached and labeled for the cylinders. If you use the same wire pattern, it works perfectly. BTW the #1 wire should be in the distributor hole psyically closest to it. and 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 from there. so the front 2 are 1 and 8 and the back two and 6-5. Understand?
If you some how loose track of where the distributor should be relative to the crank-cam timing, you will have to go the piston 1 TDC route, but thats time consuming, and it is just eaiser to do it my way. Alot less brain power

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69 Chevelle 2dr hardtop blue, bench seats, 12 bolt w/3.73's muncie 4 speed. best 14.5@90

 

A good socket and wrench set is all you need to swap the intakes. I took my time and had the swap done in about 3 days, but you could probably do it in a few hours.

A few tips (from mistakes I made)

Drain the coolant completely before you start

Mark both the distributor cap and rotor before pulling them.

Use a towel or cloth to keep debris from falling into the lifter valley (especially if you scrape off the old gaskets

If you have a digital camera, take lots of pictures to use as a reference. Also label every wire/hose you disconnect so that you know where to reconnect it.


Hope this helps

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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

Thanks a lot guys. I am getting the idea of it now. One more quick question though. After I install the intake will I have to boost fuel pressure or will the car do that for me when I reset the computer(dissconnect battery). Also, will I be able to fit this intake with a .5" spacer. I have the spacer on now and want to transfer it but afraid it won't clear the hood.


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1990 RS 305 TBI T-5
.5" turbocity spacer
Summit 14X3 OpenElement W/k&N
Hooker 3" Areochamber
MSD - Wires, Cap, Rotor, Coil
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
Metallic Red w/28,000 Pampered miles
(Still have the original wiper blades)

 

one thing to watch out for that i ran across on installation is that the third bolt back from the front on the passenger side of the car must be shorter than the others. When i put all my bolts in i torqued them, the findout 2 weeks later that the regular length bolt was right next to the pushrod, and bent it

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"If its in my way-It gets run over"

--'91 firebird
305 TBI
Hypertech chip-thermomaster
Edelbrock performer intake
Crane compucam 2031
B&M shift kit
straight pipe exhaust-with Flowtech resonator tips
160 thermostat
open element

 

mark the rotor, mark the cap, mark the shaft of the outside of the distributor to point straight ahead, cover the lifter valley, drain the coolant, put papers in the intake ports, make sure the paper doesn't go down the heads, put fat beads of silicone on the front and back of the engine block and run it up the heads a bit, make sure you have the right head gaskets. We forgot to get the ones with EGR holes and my friend might not pass smog when it comes up. umm I think thats it.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, auto, 14x3 chrome flat based open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips....

To be installed eventually far far far into the future: Yours if the price is right and I don't have to ship :
Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248), Catco 3" cat, and injector spacer.

Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
AOL IM: superGRtaz

 

I got the morroso bolts because they said the edelbrock ones weren't long enough. For that shorter bolt can I just use the stock one? Also I got the corresponding fel pro gaskets, do these have EGR holes and all nesseccary cut outs? Also about how much power do you think I will gain. CHP mag did an intake and got .70 sec at the track before headers.


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1990 RS 305 TBI T-5
.5" turbocity spacer
Summit 14X3 OpenElement W/k&N
Hooker 3" Areochamber
MSD - Wires, Cap, Rotor, Coil
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
Metallic Red w/28,000 Pampered miles
(Still have the original wiper blades)

 

You'll have to drain the radiator AND you should also drain the coolant out of the block by removing the block drain plugs, just below the exhaust manifold areas. There is one on each side of the block and the pasenger side one usually has the knock sensor in it. Other side will just be a plug, NPT I think.

You don't absolutely have to drain the block all the time, especially if the engine is absolutely level, but for a first timer, I recommend it. You don't want water/anti getting around your work or into your oil!!! Pulling two plugs is cheap insurance... Make sure you have ALL the gaskets and Permatex Ultra Black that you need, too, as well as a good gas resistant bolt thread sealer (for the intake bolts) and some parts cleaner to clean the intake bolts of crud before re-installation. I recc using Ultra Black as end-seals, not the supplied cork-type end gaskets that come in the intake gasket set.

There may be an "intake manifold swap" tech article in this website, somewhere...

 

If you have the stock hood, it will be real close, but I think it would fit.