i'v heard use the search button over and over but i like posting thread and getting quick detailed resonses..so thanks for that...anyway here is my question:

I have a new job and can start to afford better things sooner than later, im sticking with my 305 tbi and want to go with heads, cam, intake and better tbi, also better exhaust proly headers. what is your advice as far as what heads, hopefully low mile used, cam, proly lt1, intake, better intake wit newer performance tbi, and headers, proly go hedmen shorties. what else can you tell me? and what about tuning? how?

 

There's no reason to stick with the 305 if you have the means to upgrade to a 350 or bigger. If you want to keep it cheap go with Vortec's with some beehive springs, a ZZ4 cam and Torker II intake on a 350. Or just follow one of Fast355's builds, he's put together plenty of simple combos that make power for not much money.

Good luck
Tony

 

no means for long time to do 350. i really wanna see what this lo3 can do anyways. some day i will just drop my 350 in it but well im building that motor i wanna put weekenders on my lo3. anyone else back up tony c's info on the beehive with vortech heads and intake? or better suggestions?

 

if u want low mile used u dont really have any other options than vortec heads. it should make good power

 

so vortec heads will bolt right on? then what kind of intake do i get and what kind of headers to i buy and am i sticking wit the cheap and impressive lt1 cam? and tuning tuning tuning? I HAVE no idea about tuning. tbichips.com? what gears can i switch or rear ends can i use for better results? and i heard something about a shifter kit? what is that all about? please im tired of searching and racking my brain about things i have never done before. I WANT someone to tell me what to do and use and cheap as can be..please!

 

Before you get ahead of yourself you need to set some goals. What is your budget? What type of power do you want to make? What will the car be used for (drag or daily driven)? Take some time to read the "new to TBI" sticky at the top of this forum. It answers many of your questions.

The stock LO3 heads can support near 300hp. Your immediate power gains will be found by replacing the stock exhaust from the manifolds to the tail pipe with header and a 3" piping. From there you should focus on the drivetrain (posi rear and maybe gears) and suspension upgrades (20 year old bushings aren't good for performance). From there you need to get involved with learning how to burn your own chips. Only when you get that down should you consider cam, and fuel upgrades.

You have found the right place to help you with your goals but unfortunately you have too many questions that can be answered in one thread. Take some time to read the stickies and use the search button no matter how hard it may seem. Often times you can find your answers faster that way. Good luck and happy modding!

 

thank you very much but im basically electronically illiterate. i dont want to burn my own chips YES i want someone to do it for me. i know thats a little azzholeish but i really just dont want to learn. i tried to do electrical stuff in school and it burned my own wires trying to learn. but thank you for the advice. anway, im looking for just better simple horsepower gains, if i can get 300 on my stock heads i will. thats plenty of power for me. daily driver

 

300 on stock heads is definitely pushing it, 250, at most 270 is more reasonable.

 

thanks for the posts but im being serious please

 

New To TBI

 

shifty, i've followed quite a few of your posts and replys and have alot learned since i started, alot from u, some from fivekid and sonix. your guys know your shi*. anyway, i read most of that stuff but i want advice from someone who has done this before specifically wit the lo3. and i want to know what to expect.

 

We will assume that your car is in top running condition and is not in need of basic maintenance that gets over looked over the years (all new fluids, replacement of worn bushings, struts, shocks, engine tune up stuff, ect ect). If you car is in need of any of these areas it is best to replace and or upgrade them now before you add power. A lot also depends on how much you can do your self. Labor costs to install/weld new components can double your budget.

First power mods.

The first mods that you should consider are exhaust mods. The stock exhaust is the first bottleneck that needs to go. Replace the entire system from the exhaust manifolds back. This typically includes a quality set of short headers (SLP, Hooker 2055, Hedman are the best), combined with a 3" high flow cat and cat-back of your choice. Choose components that are tailored for TPI equipped cars so that you get full 3" piping without any reducers. A full exhaust alone is good for a solid 10+ rear wheel HP boost. Buying these components can very from a few hundred bucks (or less) for used parts and or up to and over $1000 for new aftermarket parts.

It would also be wise to replace the stock air cleaner assembly with a cheap 14X3" air cleaner assembly ($15 to $25 at your local parts store) and or fab up a custom cold air set-up using Cadillac bonnets and some PVC tubing.

It would be wise at this point to look into chip burning. Further modifications (cam) require the ability to properly dial in a chip. Practice now when you have the safety net of returning to a stock tune (stock tune will support exhaust mods although will be optimized with chip work) at moments notice. Tuning a cam will be far easier when the time comes.

Drivetrain/suspension mods

Sub frame connectors are really a must on these cars and can really "tighten" things up by strengthening the unibody of your car.

From there you should look into rear end mods. Namely, you should look to replace the 2 series "one wheel peel" carrier to that of a 3 series carrier and posi (you can buy a 2 series posi but your ratio options are limited). There is no point in adding lots of power when you can't get it to the ground. This can be expensive and once you add in labor, parts and speedo gears you can easily surpass the $500 to $700 range. Well worth it in the end.


I could go on and on but there are too many varibales to your equation. What I have posted is very basic stuff that mods LO3 modders attack first. Almost everything I have posted, whether it be in this thread or in the sticky I provided, I have done.

Cliff notes

Drivetrain = posi + gears (and speedo gears) and sub frame connectors do wonders for a stock car

Engine = Full exhaust + air intake = solid 20 hp boost and can improve fuel economy and sound quality .

DIY Chip Work is next and is a must before you tear into the engine.

Advanced mods = cam, intake manifold, fuel mods (high flow pump)



Example. Dewey316 ran a 14.5 with nothing more than a full exhaust, 3.42 gears and posi, and DIY chip work.
Those mods alone took off nearly 1 second from his baseline ET.

Hope this helps some.

 

um sum? im pretty sure im going to print this save this copy this staple this somewhere and send it to chilton to tell them they need to put this in their manual! this is exactly what i have been looking for. ok so im mechanically ok, but chip burning is where im gonna get ***'d. i hope you allow me to continue with my questions considering i have personally noted my respect of your wisdom. how do i start chip burning?