I recently Bought my first camaro, always wanted one. It runs really rough.

I have replaced the Throttle position sensor, the MAT sensor, the MPP sensor, the oxygen sensor and the oil pressure switch. I have replaced the spark plugs, new distributor cap, new PCV valve, new rotar, new starter.

I adjusted the timeing today and double checked the fireing order.

When you rev the engine up in park it will go up to about 4.5k RPMs and stay. When driveing it has absolutely no power. I could barely get it to load on a trailer. I can hold the brake and give it gas and it will rev to about 2k RPMs and wont budge. The engine also has a slight ticking sound when idleing.

I was thinking it might be a computer problem.

I was hopeing someone else might have come across a problem like this and could point me in the right direction to what to look for.

 

After useing the search function I havent found anyone posting a simular problem but I am gonna try to get some error codes from the Car when I find the post explaining how. There is no check engine light on when the car is running though.

 

Did you remember to disconnect the EST bypass when checking the timing?

 

Yeah, we disconected the bypass. Had to adjust the timeing a little but didnt help any.
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will the 92 RS have a 12 pin DLC connector that I jump from pin 6 to pin 12 to get the error code readout??

 

Yeah, you can jump a couple of the terminals in the diagnostic port under the driver's side dash that will flash the codes. I forget exactly which terminals, but I know that the Haynes manual tells how. Another thing to check is to see if both of the fuel injectors are firing cleanly. If you haven't already, take off the air cleaner assembly and watch the injectors squirt fuel down into the intake manifold. One of them might be clogged with dirt and dribbling fuel.

 

Checked that, both are putting out a good spray of fuel, and there seems to be plenty of fuel pressure.

 

I would do a compression check on the engine to make sure that it is still healthy internally. Also Would do a fuel pressure check to see what it is at under load, Even though you are getting a good spray at the injectors you may not have enough fuel pressure to power the car properly when under load. If it is TBI you will need at least 12/13 psi under load without much variation. Hope this helps a little.

 

Ok I went and bought a compression tester and a TBI fuel pressure tester, I am gonna check the fuel pressure first since its easiest to check. After that I will check the compression. I would rather it be the fuel pump. I also bought a TBI rebuild kit cause this one looks like it needs a good tune up.

 

How many miles are on the engine? Is there any kind of smoke coming from the exhaust? Does your service engine soon light work? i.e. does it come on when you turn the key foward before starting the car?

It would be worth while to check your plugs, or at least a couple from each side of the engine. The Fuel pressure gauge is nice to have, but keep in mind that you may need to put a load on the engine to completely test the pump.

Also, since you bought the TBI rebuild kit, it's a good time for you to look into doing the ultimate tbi mods. Simply doing these mods will not correct your problem, but it will save you from doing double work.

 

98,000 is what the odometer reads. There is somewhat of a light greyish/white smoke that comes from the pipes when you rev it up. The service engine light works.

I havent rebuilt the TBI yet but will soon.

 

Let us know what the compression comes in at and what the plugs look like!! Lite greyish could just be condensation in the engine that has not burned of or it could also be the sign of a head gasket leak. NOT to scare you but just putting out my thoughts. Best of luck!!!

 

The fuel Pressure read at 14 PSI. Havent gotten around to the compression check yet. Right now I am just trying to fix the engine not reving past 1200 RPM's in gear.

 

sounds like a pluggged up converter....

 

Hmm I guess I could chop the pipes off right before the cat and see if that fixed it lol!

 

your on the money took the words out of my moulth, happen to my car happens to these cars alot, cut it and make a cutom exhaust!

 

98k isn't that bad assuming the previous owners took care of maintenance. I forgot to ask, does it back fire at all and or get extremely hot? The cat sounds like a realistic possibility. If figuring out the problem can wait a few days, I highly suggest ordering an aldl cable from moates.net, downloading winaldl, and studying the data. Even posting it up on here to translate. The cable is not to much I think less than $30, and winaldl is free last time I checked. Also, anytime you do maintenance to the car it is worth while to check the stickies in each forum in case there is something performance oriented you can do while working on something. The ultimate tbi mods can also be found in one of the stickies in the tbi forum, unfortuantly i can't recall which on. Best of luck man

 

I will check into an aldl cable that might have to wait till next paycheck i think i have over spent on this months car budget

 

On my converter there is a line running to the EGR will it hurt to run the car with this disconnected?

 

the silver emitons pipe going into the cat? for me i think it throws lean exhaust indication code. but im not sure, it hasent hurt my car yet. and its just hangin there

 

I believe the little tube is only used during warmup to help the efficiency of the cat. it will not hurt anything if its crimped off on the cat, or if your not running a cat with a place for the tube.

 

PLEASE PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF POWER CUT THAT CAT OUT NOW!!! my car did they exact to the tee same thing your car is doing. i replaced many of the things you have had replaced. one day i got out my demolition tool..you all know what that is if you've ever used one..cut the cat off and WALLAA...305 goes to 6000 rpm gobs of power..the white smoke is a clogged up cat..if you cut it out it wont hurt anything. that little air tube just vents exhaust back into the egr valve then into the intake for emissions purposes. so if your area isnt big on emissions cut that off. and well your at it ya might as well throw some headers and full 3 in on there too

 

I thought the AIR tube cooled down the cat with, air.
Am I wrong?

 

Raiderfan
During cold start AIR diverter valve is used to dump additional air into exhaust system ahead of CAT. O2 in combination with HC are used to bring CAT up to operating temperature sooner. It's lame approach used on single stage CAT. This mode is used before CTS temperature reaches CL normal operating range. There are variations to this madness as well (AIR in CL), but for the most part ECM commands AIR to divert.

//RF

 

OK so I changed out my plugs today, didnt get a compression test cause the tester I had wasnt a very good one.

Cut the cat off and it fired right up and has plenty of power now. I guess now I have to go have an exhaust system put in.

The car still smells like it is running rich though, could that be a misadjusted Throttle position sensor? I dont have a multimeter to check it, guess i will fix that next month.

 

Wconn1979

The key to these EFI systems is a step by step operational verification. You can get DVM from chicken shack for about $20. Hell, I seen them for less at surplus places. Most likely it's running rich because ECM needs to re-learn your engine without plugged up CAT. That will take driving time.
On a side note the last time I drove a car on the street without exhast system was only two years - when I put headers on my truck. I had to 'sneak' to a muffler shop just past CHP office 7:30 am on Satarday. It was loud (open headers!) - made it.

//RF