Ok so i know code 32 is a big issue and there tons of threads on it buuuuut i looked through them and im a bit lost still

The code has been popping up in the winter time, cold outside obviously, when im cruising home on the freeway, no hard throttle action, just staying at a steady speed.

Since GM made like 3 different problems listed under the same code i dont know where to start and i dont wanna be like "oh its the egr" and go at that just to not fix the issue

Intake is clean, new ACDelco EGR valve installed 500 miles ago, holds vaccum fine, engine responds to pushing up on the diaphragm. Replaced my MAP sensor about a year ago when my old one failed, causing the car to buck and stall. No issues since


Any ideas?

 

Check ECVS - the solenoid.

https://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose

//RF

 

My tbi was doing the same thing when I got it a couple years ago. Ran fine, but at cruising speed, a seemingly unexplainable code 32... but nothing seemed wrong.

Tested egr, worked ok, but replaced it anyway; replaced egr solenoid; intake passages were clean, tb was clean, all vacuum lines were connected. Again, engine ran well, like nothing was wrong, but still: cruising speed = check engine light = code 32.

The egr worked(was new), but for some reason it wasn't working. Turned out there was a small hole in the underside of the vaccum line between the solenoid and the valve, so no vacuum was getting to the valve. Enter: black electrical tape; exit: code 32!

You said your valve held vacuum, but from where did you get the vacuum to test it? Because if all passages are clean, everything is connected, and everything is working, as seemed to be the case with mine, and apparently seems to be the case with yours, then the only reason for the valve to not operate would be because of a lack of vacuum. So if you haven't, literally, removed and inspected the vacuum lines for cracks, holes or clogs, then perhaps you should. And if they're all in good shape, then check the solenoid, if you haven't already.

 

i replaced the hoses when i put the egr on. i know it wokrs because i kept getting code 32 everytime i started the car and had to fix it for emissions

How do i go about checking the solenoid using my fluke meter? Thats the only part of the code i never touched on

 

master-

When EGR circuit is operated the ECVS (EGR control vacuum solenoid) is PWM (Pulse Width Modulated). In other words, ECM rapidly turns on and off this solenoid. ECM by varying the on time to off time ratio determines the duty cycle (or the time that EGR valve is receiving engine vacuum) which controls the amount of exhaust gas delivery (via EGR) into intake plenum.

Depending on your Fluke meter model (there are many) you may be able to measure frequency and duty cycle at which ECM is controlling ECVS. If you have a basic model - you should be able able to measure DC voltage. Low duty cycle will be high voltage (say about 11 volt) higher duty cycles will be closer to 1-2 volts.

ECVS has two wires - one is connected to +B (12 to 14.3Vdc), while the other wire is connected to ECM that pulls ECVS control line (gray wire, Pin A4) low to activate solenoid.

O-Scope is best instrument for this job, but it maybe out of reach to most shady tree mechanics. However, some Fluke DVM's Model 80 series V (87-5) can actually measure PWM waveforms.

//RF

 

i can get my hands on an O-scope but not for another week til i get back to school, what should each line be reading? isnt it like 30 to 50 ohms?

 

You can not measure resistance of an active circuit.

1) To check solenoid you have to disconnect it from the harness and measure coil resistance directly. Solenoid is designed to operate from B+ (12 to 15Vdc) and should be around 90 to 140 Ohms. I do not have exact coil resistance values, but it should be in this range.

2) ECVS has a two pin connector - one wire is tied to ignition hot ( usually pink black wire) and it should measure B+ (12 to 14 Vdc) whenever ignition key is in run position. The other wire is gray (circuit 435, Pin A4) and this is a ECM control circuit wire. When EGR is not operable this line should be at +B as well. When ECM commands EGR to operate this line should have PWM voltage - see diagram below.

 

i battled this problem forever. replaced egr numerous times, solenoid, checked all hoses etc. it seemed to me the light only came on when i was cruising on the freeway and the engine rpm was below 1900 rpms, which is common at 70 on a 305 tbi with 2.73's. what finally made mine go away was when i took a 350 tbi caprice computer and put it in the car. no light since. and thats all i care about. ha.

 

Yes, some BCC calibrations had less than stellar EGR enable calibration limits. Remember, that Code 32 is set when ECM fails to see effect of EGR opening - such as drop in MAP voltage, etc when engine is running at cruising speeds. Till this day I am surprised that this Code 32 ever worked as envisioned!

//RF

 

minor update, code 32 popped tonight when i almost got hit by a dumb @$)* that ran a red light, i took a right turn and this guy was comin up on the light just a liiiiitle too fast, i realized he wasnt stopping so i punched it, shifted into second then felt the power die out when i pushed in the clutch for third, kinda like it choked, then the SES light popped.

Soooooo logically speaking it should be the EGR solenoid switch right? it happened when i was loading the motor incredibly and when i pushed in the clutch to shift. Soooo the egr switch didnt open properly correct? I know the egr kicks in on decelleration so does this make sense to others?

trying to get better at diagnosis if you couldnt tell lol