Never done something like this, how do I replace it? Mine is leaking I believe. Need to know soon.

 

It's built into the throttle body.

 

take the injector pod off, and there should be 4 screws holding a brass colored cap on, remove the 4 screws (slowly and a little bit at a time) and the spring and diaphragm should be exposed, remove old diaphragm and spring, reverse directions to re assemble.

 

does that tell the fuel pump how much pressure to give or is there another device that does that? my engine is running overly rich, injector spray seems normal but exhaust smells like the inside of a gas tank lol

 

how does the car run, does it accelerate smoothly, or jump and stumble alot?

 

nothing smooth about it very unsteady acceleration
its bad!
sometimes on startup i am forced to slam the gas and it will start

after startup
if you slam the gas it bogs and dies
if you feather it you can get it to rev up.
sounds great beyond 2500rpm but up until that its very bad especially while hot
something is messed up with my fan as it only turns on sometimes so when it gets over 220 it really wants to die
in cold air it runs far better (first morning start)
its very wheezy, backfiring,
sometimes it falls into low rpms like 400 and idles for a second or two then dies

so i don't over heat i have a wire direct to the fan now
black smoke from the exhaust and smells very rich
im totally lost to be honest

 

check your TPS (throttle position sensor) and you ignition timing(disconnect the EST plug)

What fault codes is it throwing?

 

i dont have a code reader right now but im getting one soon. how can i check my tps? as far as timing, i'm sure its off, i'm getting a freind with a timing gun to stop by tomorrow however...
This could be important.
i been looking all over my engine and it looks like it was recently rebuilt, i think there is a good possibility that it has a cam and timing needs to be advanced, there is a sticker in the engine bay for crane cams

heres the thing thats got me, i was looking aroung for my o2 sensor (found it tried disconnecting, its new anyway)
and i was under the starter (which i have problem there too the gears aren't lining up right, the starter just slaps the flywheel till it eventually falls in)
any way i found a dangling broken sensor, i have a pic or two,
i will post


is that a new torque converter?

the broken sensor has a female connector that is identical to the one for what i think is the crankshaft position sensor (its located on the block above oil pan, below spark plugs, anyways i tried removing that sensor, ran the same, tried swapping connectors ran the same
am i on to something here?

 

ok i added pics they arent there...
you can see them here
http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa424/Kyle4Ivie/

 

you can use a mulit meter, or you can hook a computer up to your aldl port. IIRC, your TPS should be at .5 volts with the throttle closed and 5 volts open. set your timing to 0* with the esc plug dissconnected.


hopefully it's just a sticker, because if the motor has a cam, you've got alot of tuning to do.


??? why dissconnect your o2?

looks like maybe the knock sensor, I'd have to check onmine to be sure though, you should get a new one, thats probably part of the problem.

These cars don't have crank position sensors, what you're thing of is most likely the knock sensor. looks like it may be a new converter, or an old one that someone painted.

 

ok well heres the thing, it has two sensor cables that are identical,
both single wire, female oval connectors that take round sensors. one is still plugged in to a sensor it looks old but it is not the broken one, it has a white male end and its shiny metal, i think this is the knock sensor.
the other one (broken) is blue and i cannot find the rest of the sensor anywhere, i don't know where it belongs or what it is.

the cam...
um it really sounds like it has one but hell that might be because its running so bad,
also i am tranferring all of my stuff to a new thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-backfire.html

 

i disconnected my o2 sensor because i figured it had a bad mixture so i thought it would revert to stock tables if i disconnected it, after disconnecting it still runs the same.

 

Disconnecting the O2 will have an effect if the O2 is shorted. A shorted O2 sensor will cause your symptoms. Another common cause of your symptoms is the CTS. If the CTS is open the ECM defaults to -43 degrees and adds alot of fuel to compensate for the freezing temperature. Unfortunately, unless it is actually -43 degrees, this is way too much fuel for your engine to digest and you get the very symptoms you describe.

Read codes by jumping pins A&B of the ALDL, assuming your check engine light works. If it doesnt, replace the bulb. Look for code 14 in the ECM. If its there, replace CTS. Its the sensor in or by the thermostat housing with the yellow and black wires to it. BTW, the broken blue thing is you fan temp switch. Does your cooling fan work? If you have dual fans, do they both work?

 

omg ur awesome,

RE: blue fan sensor
single fan, i have it on a switch just in case it doesn't turn on
no the fan turns on here and there, but not always, so where do i find it so i can pull it out and replace it

this whole code reader thing, sorry i don't have access to one right now but i will, if i unplug the cts will that help?

 

ok so i went over to oreilly kragen, i asked for the cts and he suggested a air surge sensor (i think thats what he called it) rather than the cts, i also picked up a fan temp switch, now i just need to know where that goes on the engine so i can replace it

 

You can post a pic of the sensor if you don't know what it is.

The fan switch goes in the passenger side cylinder head, between the sparkplugs #6 and #8.

should check the fuel pressure too and make sure the IAC is working.

What is on the crane cam sticker?

 

i don't know what the sticker says, i'll take a pic tonight, i'm posting pics of my sensors now

 

http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/...20Convertible/

 

th_1012001419a.jpg?t=1286918912th_1012001420.jpg?t=1286918912
dont buy the sensor on the left for this car

 

th_1012001420b.jpg?t=1286918912th_1012001420a.jpg?t=1286918912
th_1012001419.jpg?t=1286918912

 

ok so in all honesty, i don't know where this other sensor goes either, i got the fan sensor its in the head, ok but the "manifold air temp sensor" i can't find a diagram that shows it
also where is the knock sensor supposed to be located?

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...?keyword=wt382
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...p?keyword=tfs1
that's the sensors that i bought today
also i was going to get the coolant temp sensor but everyone says that just controls the temp gauge which reads fine
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...edVehicle=true

 

Bring that IAT (intake air themp.) sensor back (white/grey), TBI don't use that tipe. Ours is in the air cleaner, the round black one with a wire connected at the bottom.

EDIT:

The CTS is on the front of the intake manifold. Is is used by the ECM.

The CTS for the gauge is in the drivers side cylinder head between sparkplug #1 and #3.

 

ok so there are two cts modules?
are they the same plugs?
also the one i have a link to below
is that the one i want (it goes in near the thermostat right)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...edVehicle=true

 

hey thomas, ur car didn't come stock with tbi right? it is a trans am right? just curious....
edit:
91-92 Trans-am's originally equipped with the LO3 engine were built in Van Nuys CA and sold in Switzerland.
It was the only 91-92 Trans-am model officially sold in switzerland by GM.
Only way to have a 91-92 LB9 or L98 powered one was private import.

theres my answer ey?

 

Woah pal, slow down a second. Lol. First of all, I instructed you to read codes and replace the CTS if code 14 showed up. There are a few items that will cause your symptoms. The most common is the CTS but nothing is definite until we verify. Second, there is a sending unit for the temp gauge completely seperate from the CTS. The CTS looks alot like the IAT that you bought, except that its black rather than gray and has a closed brass senor tip rather than the open grid of the IAT(inlet air temp) sensor. The CTS is in or close to the thermostat housing and has one black and one yellow wire to it.

Second, while the IAT sensor has an effect on fuel mixture, it is much less common of an issue than the CTS. Please dont install it. You are okay to install the fan temp switch because your old one is broken. However, before installing any other parts, read codes.

To read codes you simply need a paper clip and a working check engine light. You jump terminals A & B as I said, turn the key on, and the light will flash codes. Long flashes are tens, short flashes are ones. BTW, A & B are in the top row, far right of the connector. Good job on the fan switch. It goes in the right side cylinder head (left as viewed from the front). Its between and just above #6 & 8 spark plugs.

Disconnecting the CTS will cause your engine to run just like it is. Its common for the sensor to be open, causing your problem. Fuel mixture is directly affected by coolant temp, as seen by the ECM. The MAP sensor can fail also, causing rich fuel mixture. You can check it by disconntecting it. If the engine runs okay with the MAP sensor unplugged. You probably have a bad MAP sensor. Be sure to check the hose to it before replacing. And the IAT can fail causing a rich condition, but I have replaced two IAT sensors in 15 years, and maybe five MAP sensors, compared to fifteen CTSs. Just for an example.

 

ok, yea i didn't know the paper clip trick, thats convenient, ok so you don't want me to replace this cts sensor until i check the codes? i might as well pick it up its 11 bucks, i have to return that iat anyways, i tried the map sensor i disconnected it and it didn't help

 

Cool. If you want to throw a CTS at the car, while I dont support throwing parts at a problem, Ill let it slide. This time. Lol. As I said the CTS is such a common cause of this problem. Its almost worth it to save wasting time.

 

ok so first thing tonight i am putting my fan temp switch on,
second i am swapping out my cts
third i will try to start it and see how it runs,
if it's still crap i will do the codes

also i will take a picture of the crane cams sticker tonight and post it 2mar0

ase doc and thomas thank you very much for your help today

 

Will it leak a lot of fuel doing this? Are they hard to rebuild or should I just order a new aftermarket one? How do you set the fuel pressure on one?



Holy thread jack batman! Lol

 

1012001736.jpg?t=1286983630

 

thats the sticker for my cam, i replaced the cts and voila, man she runs sooo much better! its still rich but theres a chance it just needs to lean itself out right? if you slam it it still puts out black smoke, no where near as much so i am thinking it was driven with that problem for a while and its just blowing the remainder of that gunk out. also replaced my fan temp switch, i noticed that as soon as the key is in on position fan turns on, even when its cold, i think it must have a wire to the ignition or something.

 

david, Yes this is a thread jack. Please start your own thread so that your request will receive the attention it deserves. A breif answer is, it depends on how long you wait after running the engine. You can relieve fuel presure but its a PITA on these cars. You need to either unplug the main fuel tank harness connector from under the car, or disconnect both the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch, start the motor and run it till it runs out of fuel.

I never really have an issue with this. I just carefully loosen the larger of the two fuel lines from the TBI unit. Use a 3/4 wrench to hold the fitting while loosening the flare nut(5/8"). Any pressure will release to the rear of the motor and will evaporate quickly enough. After 20 years of repairing FI cars, never had a fire. Retighten the line after relieving pressure, then disassemble injector pod by removing several torx screws on top of TB. Upper portion of TB will seperate, allowing access to regulator.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-backfire.html
thats my thread, nobody has replied to me, but thanks ASE doc, u fixed me! i know i jacked the thread and i am sorry david, i tried to get people to follow me over there, i won't post here anymore, i'll be over there talking to myself lol...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-backfire.html

 

kyleivie, Good news. The black smoke may clear up after some driving. Probably alot of unburned fuel in engine and exhaust system. If it persists, you will want to read codes to see if you have any other issues. It looks like you definitely have an aftermarket cam installed. However, since the cam has CARB certification, Im going to bet that its very mild and shouldnt affect drivability much.

Again, the key to verifying this is veiwing engine data. BLM(block learn module) will indicate an air/fuel ratio problem that could be caused by the cam change. If there were an issue, it would more likely be a lean condition caused by added airflow. This is generally solved with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Neutral BLM is 128, higher is lean condition, lower is rich. Note that you must have a healthy O2 sensor for BLM and Integrator to function properly.

Fan running with key on is interesting but may not be an issue.

 

Holy C**p!! david I am so sorry. I wasn't paying attention. Dude you got run over. I totally spaced that this was your thread to begin with. Your FP regulator is leaking? do you see fuel coming from the housing seams?

 

kyleivie has hyjacked this tread like wild.

I dident notice either this was your post. Big sorry.

Fortunately ericjon262 has answered your question already.

Don't forget to use some locktite on the injector pod cover and presurre requlator housing screws.

 

This is my thread lmao

It's ok, doesn't bother me at all man. As long as your helped it's fine


It's not leaking but the car will start and then stall I don't think it's spraying enough to keep it running. Has a smell of fuel to but can't find a leak


Why do you have to locktite?

 

LOL!


What year is your car? do you smell gas all the time, or just when the system primes?

NM, I was going to say, 91 RS's had a recall on the gas tank, but yours is a 92. is it's leaking. look around the TBI and have someone prime the engine for you, and look, if you can smell gas, you should be able to see the leak.

yeah really??? I didn't put any on mine, and I haven't had any problems.

 

Well hasn't this been fun..

The loctite is to prevent a loose screw from making it's way into the engine,
something you do w/any fasteners exposed to the intake tract.

I will add that when reassembling, the use of two guide pins (1" long or so) in diagonal opposite regulator mounting holes eases the procedure greatly, can make of any small rod material.

 

Just after it primes. I couldn't find a leak though. Maybe I'm just crazy lol. I did notice the spray doesn't seem that great. It doesn't look like it's getting enough fuel to keep it running. It starts but sputters and dies. It did run for 15 min after I changed the fuel filter though before it did it again.

 

The locktite is recommended by the OE. The rebuild kit will come with a small tube of blue. Be sure and inspect your regulator before buying parts. You may just have a ruptured diaphram. The rebuild kit would be your answer.

 

Don't waste any more thoughts on it leaking externally.
I think you guys misunderstood what david meant,
The spring may be broken ect. ect.

Get it off & see.

this has been a rough thread for the Doc but we still luv ya lol

 

Ok I guess I'll take it apart and see what's going on in there. I've never done this so bare with me lol
Thanks

 

who makes a replacement stock one or a aftermarket one without doing any mods to it?

 

I will try to make use of this odd dbl post as I've had no luck deleting such on this forum.

 

I think what your asking is how to replace the regulator canister with an adjustable one, avoiding the work/tools maybe prob. of making yours adjustable.

I've seen, you will find that the Jet is available @ the lowest price of aftermarket parts, (for modified OE, get one of those from dctrumpet@tbiparts.com) a good product, have & do use all manner of Jet reg's. Expect $60+ shipping for the Jet (check tbiparts for price on modded OE), then drill out & notch your OE unit's adjusting screw if you care to see how easy/hard it is to do.

Beware spring may be the primary cause of failure & comes w/none of the mass market rebuild kits...see tbiparts.com

 

I just did an intake reseal Friday on a Chev TBI. Since we're in the midst of this discussion, I paid extra attention to the clearance below the regulator. Its been years since I did an adjustable regulator on one of these. I remember using my dremel to create clearance for access to the regulator adjusting screw. Looking at this one it appears that you could acces the screw of an adjustable reg without any mods. It will be tight though. The Fuel line bosses are right there.

 

By the way. The motor from Friday (85 El Camino) had an intake leak to the crankcase causing a lean condition, rough idle, and severe power loss. The installer of the reman motor had misrouted vac lines as well which didnt help matters any. Just thought this might be of interest to anyone reading this thread.