What would be the ultimate heads for a 305? I would like a list of high performance heads that would fit the 305. A list with casting numbers, flow, price and additional work needed (like milling etc.) would be nice! Maybe that is a bit to much to ask for?

 

L98 heads, Edelbrock Performer heads. both about $1000 with almost no compression loss. Aluminum L98 heads are 58cc's like stock and elebrock performers are 60cc's. But the L98s don't have internal EGR passages. Vortecs are better than both but don't have internal EGR, they require special intakes, and they are about 40 lbs. heavier. The vortecs also can't handle as much cam lift stock. They however are much cheaper. $420 for a pair at least. They are also 64cc's. Even though the compression will drop, they would be so much better than stock it shouldn't be a big deal. There is a guy that put them on his carbed 305 LG4 and it turned out pretty good. Low 14's/high 13's if I remember.

 

I went looking for the Vortec 305 guy and found this:
Maybe more research on his name will yield on the missing info like suspension mods, exaust, etc.

 

Actually I just compared the flow numbers of the vortecs vs. Edelbrock performer center bolt heads, and the Edelbrocks had the edge over the vortecs. Alot lighter too. Need no machining. Edelbrock recomends not to go over .45 lift on a bore smaller then 4" though. The performer heads with 64cc chambers really kicked vortec butt. How ever I plan on going with the performer center bolt heads because the 60cc chambers wouldn't drop my compresion as much.

 

Umm...aren't the Edlebrock heads 2.02in 1.60-

That's too large for the bore of the 305

Back me up guys- I have heard they can be made to work- (notch the bores?) but really aren't worth it.

 

Yes they are 2.02 / 1.6 , and I think thats great. NJspeeder has been running them for awhile on his motor. I don't believe he had to notch anything. I can slap them on a 350 when my 305 goes south, (bites the dust),(takes the big dirt nap) etc.

 

2.02/1.6 will work on a 305. Edelbrock recommends that you dont go bigger than a .450 lift but NJSPEEDER says thats not true.

 

NJspeeder should be running his car soon. We'll see how the heads do with the LT1 cam.(wich has about .450 lift) Thats the cam I am running now with my supper swirl ports. I've considered the 305 SR torquers but I am also thinking of a 350 down the line. Besides, I think the Edelbrocks will out flow the torquers and I'm not doing this just for my health.

 

You didn't change your valve springs with that LT1 cam did you? I'm stilling debating whether to change mine out. I'm leaning toward no since a 350 is in the recent future. How many miles have you run it now with that cam?

On the subject of the heads. I think the 60cc Edelbrock's would be the coolest. They are also the ones that would work best of a 305 and a 350. I was thinking about doing heads this summer but I decided to wait for a 350. I'll probably go for a crate 350 that comes with heads anyway. If I get a shortblock I'll probably go for the World 350 heads. I'd like to get the 60cc Edelbrocks but they do cost a lot more, and the World heads are supposed to flow real good too.

 

I currently have 98000 miles on my car. I have ran my LT1 cam for 7000 miles with no problems. I tend to drive it hard, hitting 6000 rpm often. I am running with my original lifters, push rods and stock springs.My timing chain and gear looked great so I took the new set back that I had bought and reused the old set. My guess is that the timing chain lasts alot longer with a rollor cam.

My thinking was and is that it doesn't take a huge spring to close a small valve like we have (1.84 intake). LT1 motors have 2.02 intake valves and need a heavier spring to close them. If I stuck a larger heavier intake valve in my stock heads of corse I would need a heavier spring to close it. I just get tired of seeing people get advised to waste money on things they dont need.
THE LT1 CAM IS NOT A RADICAL CAM !!!
You dont need to make any changes to your valve train to run it!
If your valve springs are shot,or for that matter, if anything on your motor is shot then of course replace it, you should anyway even if you are not changing cams. If I was building a new motor I would go the extra mile, but I'm not. I'm modifing a motor with 9xxxx miles on it and I don't think I want to invest to much in it.

PS Keith I'm not venting tword you, just venting in general to what i see is a trend to over complicate a good low cost power gain.

 

i run the edelbrocks on my 305. there is no need to notch or do anything to the block or heads to fit them on the block. i also ran the valaves all the way intot hte hole to see if they woudl ever hit anything and they were fine all the way down to teh springs bound.
you can go a bit further than the .450 lift taht edelbrock recomends and still have sufficiant air flow, the prob is not ath tanything actually hits. what happens is that the valve gets closer to the bore wall and disrupts air flow.
soem measuring and figuring leads me to believe you could potentially get away with .470 lift if you wanted to, but you woudl be getting less vacuum at idle and the car woudl definately be feeling it.

later
tim

 

I wasn't saying that you needed to change them. I'm just trying to work up the courage to do the cam without the springs.

 

I realize that. I have got some crap in the past about the stock spring issue and was refering to that, not your question.
Sorry, I guess I got carried away again.