Has anyone ever used a ring ridge remover? I was just taking out the rods/pistons on my old 305, and I noticed a massive amount of ring ridge at the top of the cylinder walls. originally the plan was to hone the cylinders, and reassemble the engine with new rings and bearings. There is no score marks or anything on the cylinder walls. I have heard that if you don't remove the ridge, the new rings will most likely break, and if you remove the ridge the new rings probably won't seal right. I don't really have the funds right now to buy a new engine or to get this one machined. Thanks a lot for any advice.

 

help...please

 

I've used one before and it worked to get the old pistons out. But if the cylinders are worn to the point where you NEED to use a ridge reemer than it needs to be bored out because the cylinders are tappered (is that the term?).

 

No, I don't need the ridge remover to remove the pistons, the pistons skirts are not scored or anything, I just want to know if you use the ridge remover, will the new rings seal at the top of the cylinder. I will hone it out after I use the ridge remover. even if they don't totally seal correcty, the motors only going to be used for this summer. I think that I will try it, if the motor blows...I don't really care.

 

the new rings will never touch the ridge ,the rings make the ridge because they don't go that far and after time and wear the ridge forms. you need to bore the engine if you have taper or out of round holes. the only way you will know that is to check with a dial gauge.

 

The ridge is caused by the ring. The ring will wear with a radius, larger than a new ring has. The ridge will also get this radius too.

When you install a new ring in a cylinder with a ridge, the new ring will hit it's "square'er" radius against the larger radius of the ridge, in severe cases hammering the ring. In any case, there's no way you can have the ring gap the same at the top of the bore vs center and bottom of stroke.

If I didn't have the funds for an overbore, at the minimum I'd remove the ridge (no matter how small or large), set the ring gap..measuring at the smallest part of the bore.

There will be a little compression lost towards the top of the stroke, due to the large ring gap, but at least the ring won't be smacking the ridge and compressing to itself.

 

Yes, use the ridge reamer. It's not as good as getting the cylinders overbored, but better than not doing it.

The 396 now in my '57 was rebuilt in the mid-'70's by a high-school shop class. They didn't bother removing the ridge, and when I took it apart in 1995, 7 of the 8 top rings were broken.

Mike hit the nail on the head as to why this happened.

Use the ridge reamer.

 

If you must use this method and not have it bored, use the ridge remover and hone it really, really well--to give the new rings half a chance to seat.

 

hone it with a ball-hone, or one of those 3 bar things..(I think you guys know what I mean, looks like a large brake cylinder hone) or both? I imagine using the bar one first...then the ball hone. I don't know? Thanks for the help though...really appretiate this.

 

I'd use a ball hone, makes for a better, more consistant finish on something with a taper.