Just to give some info, my cooling fan does turn on @225 with the stock fan switch.


So I wanted to make my own switch so I can turn it on at any time. So I put the key in and moved it foward (Fuel pump initialized)

Then I went underneath and found the switch



Unplugged it and tried to ground it just to make sure it would turn on.



Stuck one red end inside the white thing (Where that metal pin is) and the other red end to a ground, and THE FAN wont turn on!



But my cooling fan works, I gotta be doin sumthin wrong I also tested those wires I used to ground and there good.


Thanks

 

Uhhh yeah. That is the knock sensor not the cooling fan switch.

The cooling switch is between the number 8 and 6 cylinders ON THE HEAD not on the block.

 

Oh son of a ****.


Someone shoot me



Thank you very much man


As you can tell

<=Newb

 

Did you tell mom and dad that you're using your nintendo wires to fix your car?

 

or if you have the TPI the sensor you are looking for is in the front of the intake manifold.

if you want to make a switch, take some wire, and hook it up to the relay that is on the passenger side of the radiator. 4 wires going in. and i think that the two wires you want are the two fatty ones. or just take the relay off of the clip and figure it out.

and then what you do is get a big fatty switch and run some wire to it so you can bypass the relay.

good luck
andrew

 

Lmfao Rezinn, are you dumb, they were super nintendo wires
j/k

Heres a Question


I thought when your car gets to 220, the low speed is suppose to come on?

I grounded the wire going into the switch and the high speed turns on. So If I use my switch, with the ignition foward, only the high speed comes on. If I use my switch when the car is running, the high and low come on


Atleast I got some progress

 

Not to sound like a smartarse but dont answer a question unless you know the answer for sure. That sensor is used ONLY by the ECM so IT knows how hot the engine is. You really don't want to mess with that one.

You're about the relay method though. If you just ground out that relay the first fan will come on all the time. If you mess with the switch between #6 and #8 then you can control the 2nd fan. I'm not aware of any method to control the exact temp the 1st fan comes on, UNLESS you're into prom burning. If you really want to do this, I will burn a prom for you that will turn both fans on and off at any temp you want.

 

Blackened, where are you located?

 

LMAO also...

 

[oops

 

Well all the bugs are worked out and its fine! Hurray!


Nintendo wires for life!

 

Nintendo wires are awesome RCA wires i use them for everthing!

 

That type of wire was never intended to sustain the current required to ground a relay full time or *** forbid ground a fan directly. Those were are designed to carry very small audio a/c currents, which is why they're so fragile and thin Go get a roll of regular 10 guages or something from your local auto parts store. Much better choice.

 

At least he's not using his X-box. (I'm still not sure if that's a toy or a former girlfriend - OOPS! Same thing? )

I'm feeling REALLY baaad today - I gotta go out and find some rice to grind....

 

actually, the sensor that went into the intake did fix my car.

my fans never turned on, and so i went to the local GM dealership and we decided that if i were to replace the one sensor on my intake that it would be fixed. and not to sound like a smartarse, it was the problem. and now my fans turn on at 220 every time.

so, i kinda know what i am talking about

 

That sensor is used by the computer, and I believe that one of the fans is controlled by the computer so that could be why it solved your problem.

Ben

 

Not true. The current that flows through a grounded relay coil is miniscule, in many cases on the order of 50-80mA.

Now, if he's using those as the actual fan wire (and I'm not sure why he would, since the manipulation of the coil side of the relay is all that's needed to turn the fan on and off), he probably would have problems. Each fan takes (from rough testing) approximately 10A of turn-on current. Actually operating current is less, probably on the order of 5-7A.

 

lol They werent really nintendo wires. The only thing I used them for was to ground the wire to make sure my fans turn on before I tapped into that wire.

Im just happy it worked :lala: