Here's the deal. I have $250 saved up for repairs to my L98. However, I can't do multiple repairs to the car right now, so I can only pick one thing to repair. I also have a couple of problems right now, both of which the dealer can fix.

Here's the scenarios:

If I repair the busted valve seals (blue smoke problem), it'll run me about $250. Other than oil burning a little faster than normal, and the car not being a total embarrassment when I start the car (it's a puff of blue smoke during a cold start, but the puff is starting to get larger), I don't see what repairing these can do.

If I replace the O2 sensor, it's possible that my fuel consumption will improve, and the smell of unburned gasoline should disappear.

What would be money better spent?

 

I would go with the valve seals. It just seems to me to be the biggest problem of the 2. Considering that it is getting progressivly worse.

 

If you need a new O2, then I say that. If it will improve gas milage, the money you save can go towards the valve seals. I don't see the point in dropping $250 to cure some start up smoke.

 

Except that burning oil isn't good for the O2 sensor.

Do the oil seals, then get yourself an O2 sensor socket ($5) and a $20 O2 sensor from Discount Auto (they sell Bosch O2 sensors) and change the sensor yourself. It only takes about 20 minutes to do, also do it when the engine is warm, but not HOT, it will aid in freeing up the old sensor.

~M~

 

i say do both jobs by yourself and you'll still have money left over.
even if you've never done engine work you can do these repairs

I've got a brand new set of GM valve seals i'll sell you for $20 plus shipping. you can rent a spring compressor and get all your money back when you return it. search the board for instructions on doing the seals, it's pretty straight forward and painless. you'd also need a new set of valve cover gaskets unless you have rubber now. those are like $10.

a new o2 is like $20 and if you need the socket to remove/install it, it's another 6 or 7 but you can usually get away with a wrench.

 

Or get a 7/8" combination wrench, a can of penetrating oil, a small jar of anti-seize compound, and a replacement oxygen sensor. You'll have $40 in the O² replacement.

I'd suggest getting the valve seals replaced soon afterward or you'll end up installing a third O² sensor from oil contamination.

Valve seal replacement isn't all that difficult, just time consuming. If you have a few basic tools and are willing to purchase an overhead valve spring compressor for about $20, you can do it yourself for about $40 in seals and gaskets. Plus you'll have the satisfaction of having done it yourself, so you can treat yourself to whatever you want with the cash left over - or just send it to me...

 

I'd do both jobs myself too. Get a set of 96 up chev 350truck (vortec) valve seals. K-D Tools makes a simple lever type spring compressor that uses your rocker stud and nut for an anchor.
This tool makes the job real easy. I paid $15 for mine. You'll need a length of 3/8 rope or compressed air to hold the valves shut while you change the seals.
The O2 sensor can be removed and can be cleaned by burning off the carbon deposits witha propane torch. A lot of times this is all thats wrong with them. If not just put a new one in.
With basic tools you can do a better job than a Dealer
Mechanic can. Avoid Dealers, service dept unless there is no alterative. They are usually a rip off. Even if you get a qualified mechanic, he'll be in a rush (flat rate) and they'll over charge you.

 

Oh dear ***.

I just got a price quote.

$850.00.

There must be a cheaper way.

I would really like to do the work myself, but I'm inexperienced and have never worked on the engine before, except changing the air cleaner.

It's my daily driver too, so I can't afford to have the car gone very long.

Someone on another board mentioned purchasing new "heads." What does he mean by this, how much does it cost (on average), and is it worth it?

 

New heads, means buying new heads, the things under your valve covers. New I think $500 is the cheapest you're looking at. Then a shop would charge you out the wazoo for labor.

 

crane cams seals=16 bucks and then buy a haynes manual and buy a ring comprssor and do them yourself for about 50 bucks then do the o2 sensor yourself and u will have enought money left over for sumtin cool. i'm 16 and did my valve stem seals myself and it turned out perfect so u can def do it, just read alot its the best thign u can do

 

dirty,

listen to these guys, they know what they are talking about.
If you weren't sure about doing it yourself before, the $800 + estimate should have helped you make up your mind. Just get a Manual, read the section you need while you are under the hood. The more familiar you are with what you are going to do, the less down time you will have. There are a lot of things you could but for your car with 800 bucks. Gaskets and sensors are cheap.

Good Luck

 

800 bucks to change valve stem seals? Tell them that smoking crack is against the law.
Get a manual for your car, read through it during the week and do searches on here for how to change the seals. Get a new set of valve cover gaskets, 3 feet of 3/8' nylon rope, a new O2 sensor (they come precoated with antisieze). Pick a weekend to do the work and start early and take lots of breaks, especially if you start getting frustrated. Do exactly what the manual says when it comes time to relash the valves, and come post here if you have questions. Above all, take your time and make sure you have done everything correctly.

~M~

 

Dudeman,
Valve seals are a piece of cake.
The hardest part of replacing the seals is getting the valve covers off.
Here is a suggestion, go to your local high school or Technical college, and ask one of the instructors to show you some pictures, or if they have a small block chevy torn down, to show you how the stuff goes together.
Another suggestion is to go to a couple of machine shops in your area, and ask if you could watch them do a couple of seals on a bench. If they aren't complete a$$holes, they would probably get a kick out of showing you.
Just tell them that you want to learn.

When you do your seals, here are a couple of tips:
The rope trick, pull the valve covers, remove the rocker arms, pull the spark plugs, stuff a couple of feet of 3/8 rope into the spark plug hole, (be sure to leave enough out for you to pull it out) turn the motor over by hand until the piston is jamming the rope up against the valves.

"Wake em up" take a 1/2" deepwell socket and place it over the valve stem/ locks, and with a hammer, give the socket a firm rap.
This will unseat the locks in the retainer and make it come apart easier.

Be sure to wear a pair of work gloves while you are compressing the spring (especially if you are using a screw type spring compressor, cause some times springs go "boing").

A small magnet on a stick works good to get the locks out.

When you put on the stem seals, the hard plastic ones go on the exhaust, the neoprene ones go on the intake, they both get o-rings on the top. You have to compress the spring and retainer, put them on the valve stem, put the o-ring in its groove and then put the locks into place and pull up on the spring/ retainer /locks while un screwing the compressor, assuming you are using a screw type compressor, to keep everything in position.

Don't waste your money on a haynes manual. At minimum, get a Chilton's or preferably a year specific factory service manual, the factory books will have everything you wanted to know but were afraid to ask. You can usually find them on ebay for 20-30 bucks.

Morley has an especially good piece of advice, if you are getting frustrated, take a break.

Once you get the hang of it, you can do each valve seal in about 15 minutes without even pushing yourself.

Good Luck

 

...And it's already been outlined for you. Take some of this advice. First, get a good service manual for your car. Even if you never turn a wrench under the hood, you'll have a very clear understanding of what you're paying the mechanic to do for you. Plan on spending about $50 of that pile of cash that you've saved.

Once you get the manual, read the section on the oxygen sensor replacement. Unplug one wire, unscrew the sensor, screw a new on in its place, and connect the wire. It's that easy. And it's not even in a difficult location on our cars - it can all be done without raising the car or removing anything else.

Once you've got that replaced, the money you save in fuel alone should pay for the sensor and manual in a couple of months of daily driving. And your performace should improve as well.

Take some more time and study the section on engine repair, to see what it takes to remove the valve springs and replace the seals. If you realize that there is no magic, accumulate the tools you'll need and plan on a good long Saturday to do the job. Parts will only cost you about $30.00 - valve seals and rocker cover gaskets. Other than common sockets, ratchets, and other standard tools, all you'll need is a good magnet and valve spring compressor. I could probably find all the tools and hardware I'd need to change valve seals for under $100. And you would have the tools after the job is done instead of buying them for the mechanic.

You can do wither of these at your leisure, but the sensor replacement is so easy that it doesn't make sense to delay. As I said, you'll save more in gas than teh cost of the sensor in no time.

Look at the lft (driver side) exhaust manifold and locate your sensor to see how easy it really is:

 

If you think valve stem seals are a lot of work, wait until you're scraping a head gasket. You've gotta remove the intake manifold & distributor, too. Vader is 100% right- do it yourself.

In fact, if you're as inexperienced as you claim, I wouldn't bother with the valve stem seals at all. There's nothing wrong with inexpereince, we were all that way once, but here's your chance to learn. Get the www.helminc.com manual for your car (might find one on eBay.com ). Go to Sears or Home Depot and get a $70 socket set, with SAE & Metric sockets. Maybe you'll get lucky, find a sale, and get the $70 set for $50. (Don't buy their most basic set, $70's a good average price.) Don't buy a no-name foreign-made fake-steel $15 socket set- the sockets are CHEAP, and will mess up your nuts & bolts, and you'll have to buy new sockets in a year. I'd rather spend $70 once (lifetime warranty) for real tools. So avoid the K-mart "$30 for rolling tool box and full 285 piece professional tool set" deal!

Buy a $20 tool box, $3 bag of rags, a $20 set of screwdrivers, $5 oil filter wrench (I prefer the old-school "band" type, and not the type that goes on your ratchet), pan for oil, wheel ramps, $12 lube gun (with a hose) and $3 grease cartridge, pliers, adjustable wrench, "swing-out blade type" spark plug gapper (don't get the keychain disc-type, its inaccurate), digital multimeter (sears, $15, or http://www.sunpro.com 's garage sale link- $80 meter for $15) and start learning. Oh, don't forget a fender cover; they're always fun. If you really can't afford the Helm manual, pick up a $15 Haynes 82-92 Firebird manual from a Pep Boys or Autozone. Giving your car a major tuneup would really "throw you" into your car. See my list at https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=62882 Then a month later, you'll be confident enough to do the valve stem seals... and pretty much anything else.

And I just have one thing to add to jeff's advice- also wear safety glasses/goggles when working with those valvesprings. Imagine being blinded for life because a valvespring hit you in the eye! That's embarassing. Your friends would never let you live that down! You'd always be called Mr Squinty or Mr. Valvespring!

 

Here is the tool you want to get to compress the valve springs.
This one is from Crane Cams. Works on all small block and
big block chevs. Do not try to use one of the claw style
"knuckle buster" valve spring compressors. It will only frustrate the *&%$ out of ya and you'll never want to work on cars again.

When readjusting the valve lash remember this simple
rule and you won't go wrong.

You have to turn the motor over till the cam lobe is on the heal
(backside) and the lifter is all the way down (valve closed)
to adjust that valve.

When the intake valve just closes, set the exhaust valve for that cylinder. Bump the motor over, when the exhaust just starts to open, set the intake valve.

 

F-bird, He's gonna get tired of turning the motor.

Here is the factory recommended way to set the valve lash.

With the engine in the # 1 firing position, (#1 top dead center, timing pointer at "0", both valves closed) Adjust these valves:
Exhaust : 1, 3, 4, 8
Intake : 1, 2, 5, 7

Turn the motor 1 revolution and adjust:
Exhaust : 2, 5, 6, 7
Intake : 3, 4, 6, 8

TomP:
Thanks for the saftey glasses tip.
I wear them all the time so it is second nature, and I don't think to warn people about the need for eye protection.

 

Your factory method works well on stock factory cams of short duration, but on a race cam you may have as much as 360
deg of actual cam duration. Some of the valves can be "on the ramp" using your method.

Have a buddy bump the starter motor over to set the lobes in the proper position.

 

TomP--- think maybe you ought to submit that last post you had up above as a tech article for "Newbies to Cars" or "If you've never worked on a car before, start here", haha. I was reading through the list going, yep, yep, yep, he'll need one of those, yep that too...etc, haha.


In answer to Dirty Bird's original question. What everyone else said. Get the tools, do it yourself, and you've taken your first step into a larger world.

 

I agree with everybody saying to do it yourself. Believe me, I would love nothing more than to get greasy working on my car. But there is one little problem.
I live in an apartment. They complain if you so much as open your hood, let alone get parts everywhere while trying to fix it. When my lease runs up, I am definately looking to get into a house. But that is still several months in the future. What do you recommend in the meantime???

 

Hehe, thanks, T/a, maybe I will. I've got a version of that going for my webpage; but I've been working on my webpage for the past 4 years...

Flamingo, got any friends with garages? They might loan you the driveway for a few hours. That really sucks!