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Car starts then stalls in seconds.....HELP

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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 06:32 PM
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Car starts then stalls in seconds.....HELP

Ok I just came back from a long camping trip in GTA, and everything is running fine UNTIL I get in the car the next morning after getting home.

I go to start the car, and it starts right up blowing a crap load of smoke out (more then normal) and then within 3 seconds of running it stalls and doesn't even attempt to fire while cranking over. Maybe it is just burning the oil that is leaking past the seals.

At first I was thinking it was my Crane Fireball ignition box failing, but then why would it start in the first place? I am now suspecting a fuel pump failure although it seems odd how it would fail just sitting overnight after a long trouble free trip.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to help my car start again as I have no car, and I start work again on Monday.
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Old Jul 11, 2002 | 10:11 PM
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From: Bedford, Tx
so did u try restarting it?? what happend then?
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 12:25 AM
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I attempted to start the car right after it stalled, and all it did was crank and crank without even the slightest attempt of firing.

I waited two days and went outside and the car started right up , but then sttutered and stalled after a few seconds, with an abnormal amount of white/blue smoke.
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 12:59 AM
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From: Bedford, Tx
hmm. either something is up with ur ignition, or ignition modual. or maybe ur getting TOO much fuel?
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 12:14 PM
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From: downtown.london.on.ca
Car: 88sc
Engine: 305 for now
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: peg
white smoke = coolant in combustion chamber. did you look at your oil to see if there is any coolant there? blowing a head gasket kinda sucks....
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 08:23 PM
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There is no coolant in the oil, I know the smoke is valve seals.

I really think the problem lies in either the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or the ignition module.

Out of these suspects which do you most think would be the culprit?
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 08:26 PM
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Is there any way to test if any of these culprits are shot?
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Old Jul 12, 2002 | 11:18 PM
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anybody?
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Old Jul 13, 2002 | 01:26 AM
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From: Bedford, Tx
the ignition modual can be removed and brought to autozone or O'Reilys to be tested.. the fuel pump can be tested by having someoen turn the key to the "on" postion while u put an ear up to the gas cap and listen for the short buzz of the fuel pump..
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Old Jul 13, 2002 | 06:49 PM
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From: south florida
Car: 86 Camaro Iroc-z, 86 Corvette
Engine: 350 TPI Camaro, 350 tpi Corvette
Transmission: 700R4
It might be the fuel pump :lala: :lala:
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Old Jul 13, 2002 | 08:05 PM
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From: East TX
First off listen for your FP to run. Remember it will take 30-60sec to reset after the line is pressurized.

If you don't hear the pump run. Post back. There is a test procedure to find out what might be keeping it from running. It's not nessicarily the pump.

Ign Module-- This is a hard one to test. Their are ways to test it, but if you have 15k+ miles on it, just change it.

Spark -- This is an easy one. Pull a plug wire and tell a friend to hold it then crank the car while they are not looking!!! They'll tell you if it works!!!

Other possiblitys: MAF or ECM.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 10:36 PM
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I installed a new ignition module this afternoon, started the car and it started right up and was fine other than a serious miss, I believe it's my rotor ( I hope), it looked pretty worn out.

My only problem installing the ignition module was that the plastic clip that joined the two wires coming from the pickup coil was shattered and I had no idea which wire went on which of the two posts.

If anyone has recently installed an ignition module, or can remember installing one, could you please clarify which wire connects on which post?

Also, If the is no plastic clip seperating the two wires, would there be arching or interference between the two wires from the pickup coil? Should I apply a little RTV silicone between the two wires to?
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