car stalled, won't start, fouling plugs tpi
car stalled, won't start, fouling plugs tpi
My cable isn't working well so I can't bring my other post ttt, but basically the car died while driving, wouldn't start, the plugs are fouled and it smells like raw gas. I changed the plugs and the car started, but it immediately started to foul the plugs and just died when I revved it. I pulled the fuel rails up out of the intake to check and see if the injectors were leaking, and contrary to what most people said they are not. The ignition is all less than a year old, this includes: wires, plugs, coil, cap, rotor, module, distributor. Everything is msd, accel wires, bosch plat plugs(shortest ones I coul find to clear the headers) The engine has 1400 miles on it, it's a 5.7 automatic tuned port car. I'm not sure what's wrong now, as this just happened suddenly. The fuel pressure at the rails bleeds off from 46 to 20 psi in less than five minutes, which is why I thought the injectors were leaking. But they aren't. The FPR is relatively new, I'm not out of gas, all connections are fine. All fuses are good. The car worked fine until now. Can anyone help? I don't know what else to do.
Anyone have any ideas? I need this fixed soon and I can't figure it out. No codes set, tps reads fine, MAF sensor and relays are fine, CTS new. Custom chip programmed a few months ago. Everything in the car is new besides the computer, fuel pump, some wiring, maybe some sensors I may have missed. Please help!
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
I would check one or both banks of injectors for a short to ground. The computer supplies ground to pulse injectors. If the ground is shorted directly to ground or if a malfunctioning computer keeps ground on all the time, the flood gates will be opened, flooding the car out.
If the injectors were just being grounded then they wouldn't make a ticking noise, as they'd just be wide open dumping fuel in, correct? I remember when I had the car started, before it died I could hear the injectors ticking. I couldn't say if I heard both banks ticking but I know that at least one was. I'm starting to think this may be an ignition problem or something else, even though everything related is new. *sigh*
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
If they were clicking then they are not shorted. If they were shorted it would be like you putting on a light switch it would be on all the time. what the computer does is turn them on and off which makes the clicking noise.
Let's back up. You said everything in the ignition is new. Did you check for spark? If the plugs are fouled and you smell fuel the air/fuel is not being ignited.
You could check injector circuit with a noid light. It should blink while cranking. if light was on all the time you would have a short to ground in ground circuit. I would make sure and check basics first. Starting with a good strong spark. Let me know how you make out.
Let's back up. You said everything in the ignition is new. Did you check for spark? If the plugs are fouled and you smell fuel the air/fuel is not being ignited.
You could check injector circuit with a noid light. It should blink while cranking. if light was on all the time you would have a short to ground in ground circuit. I would make sure and check basics first. Starting with a good strong spark. Let me know how you make out.
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I'm getting spark. The plugs shoot a white spark to the block. I just checked right now and the car wouldn't even start, didn't sound the same either. Seems worse than before.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
If there doesn't appear to be a mechanical reason for what the engine is doing, look for things that would make the ECM dump too much fuel. Like a bad CTS, bad MAP or MAF, etc.
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
You should have a nice blue spark from spark plug tip to engine ground. If it is white in color try a known good plug and compare spark. If you still feel your ignition system is operating 100% try this.
Do this in a well vented area, preferably outside. Try taking all plugs out. Disable the fuel pump ie. unplug it, fuse, relay, unplug injectors, etc. Disable the coil. Unplug wires going into it (do not just unpleg high tension wire! You want no spark anywhere near this car!). Turn the engine over a few times to get all that unburned fuel out through the spark plug holes. Clean the plugs (I'd honestly recommend A/C Delco plugs over those Bosch, now would be a good time to replace them). Let the engine sit for a while. Re-install/replace the plugs. Reconnect fuel pump/injectors and coil. Try to start. If it runs bring RPM's up to help remove remaining unburned fuel from engine. If it does not start after craning for a while. Remove easiest plug and see if is gas soaked again. If it is I would suspect malfunctioning ignition(not burning fuel). Could also be faulty injectors (stuck open/ leaking, flooding engine). Who made custom chip for you? Could also be a suspect. Good luck!
Do this in a well vented area, preferably outside. Try taking all plugs out. Disable the fuel pump ie. unplug it, fuse, relay, unplug injectors, etc. Disable the coil. Unplug wires going into it (do not just unpleg high tension wire! You want no spark anywhere near this car!). Turn the engine over a few times to get all that unburned fuel out through the spark plug holes. Clean the plugs (I'd honestly recommend A/C Delco plugs over those Bosch, now would be a good time to replace them). Let the engine sit for a while. Re-install/replace the plugs. Reconnect fuel pump/injectors and coil. Try to start. If it runs bring RPM's up to help remove remaining unburned fuel from engine. If it does not start after craning for a while. Remove easiest plug and see if is gas soaked again. If it is I would suspect malfunctioning ignition(not burning fuel). Could also be faulty injectors (stuck open/ leaking, flooding engine). Who made custom chip for you? Could also be a suspect. Good luck!
Thanks guys, but the MAF is a year old, the CTS is a month old. The injectors are relatively new, the plugs are two days old. I've tried two different coils, all of the ignition is less than a year old. The MAT is old, but I don't think that could cause such a large problem, and if any sensor was malfunctioning enough to cause such a large problem, I'd expect a code. The car doesn't start now, and it sounds like ****. I can't believe this happened. It almost sounds like the timing is off when I try to start it, but it hasn't been changed. I can read codes fine so I don't think there is a computer problem. Like I said, I'm out of ideas.
Custom chip was made by Kevin Lorenzen, he knows his stuff. He did say it would need a bit more programming once the engine had some miles on it, which is now. It's completely broken in now, but isn't running, so I can't get it to him. The car has been fine for 1400 miles, then all of a sudden this happened. The only other problems I have had is the car stalling when cold on an incline. That's it, absolutely nothing else.
Custom chip was made by Kevin Lorenzen, he knows his stuff. He did say it would need a bit more programming once the engine had some miles on it, which is now. It's completely broken in now, but isn't running, so I can't get it to him. The car has been fine for 1400 miles, then all of a sudden this happened. The only other problems I have had is the car stalling when cold on an incline. That's it, absolutely nothing else.
I'll try a new module tomorrow, and I may pick up some msd wires just for the hell of it. That's the only part I have reason to suspect. I tried starting without the MAF and there was no difference, I know the MAF is good. I'm fairly sure the CTS is good, but I'll have to check it as well. I think it's a matter of not igniting rather than flooding. Could anything affect my timing by dying? I haven't checked it while cranking, but it sort of sounds like the timing is off, even though I know it's been set correctly.
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