Perfomance value of cold gas?
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
Perfomance value of cold gas?
Who here thinks super cooled gasoline injected into the engine would provide more power?
My fuel line comes very close to the header and after a 1/4mile pass you can see the fuel starting to boil..
so that has me considering plans to cool down my fuel lines somehow. I'm wondering if supercooling the fuel somehow would be worth a few hp...
any thoughts?
My fuel line comes very close to the header and after a 1/4mile pass you can see the fuel starting to boil..
so that has me considering plans to cool down my fuel lines somehow. I'm wondering if supercooling the fuel somehow would be worth a few hp...
any thoughts?
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From: Elizabeth, Colorado
Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
What's up man...
I would insulate them first, and than consider a cool can setup.
I used Thermo-Tek tubing around the fuel lines. I even use it on the radiator hoses.
If your goal is drag racing, than I would run a cool can.
Ron
I would insulate them first, and than consider a cool can setup.
I used Thermo-Tek tubing around the fuel lines. I even use it on the radiator hoses.
If your goal is drag racing, than I would run a cool can.
Ron
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
Hey ron!
How does the cool can work?
I have a few ideas along the same lines that I was going to home build..
whats the optimal temp for fuel atomization?
How does the cool can work?
I have a few ideas along the same lines that I was going to home build..
whats the optimal temp for fuel atomization?
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From: Elizabeth, Colorado
Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
The only setups I've seen are not technical at all. Just an insulated aluminum can with fuel line coiled to the inside wall. Pour some ice in the center, and your set. Don't forget to punch a hole in the bottom to let the water run out.
No engineering degree here, so I couldn't tell you about the perfect absolute best atomization temperature. But depending on the temp of the fuel before it gets to the can, the only way to adjust the amount of temp decrease would be the amount of exposure (length of hose & size of hose) in the can to the ice.
I've also seen air cooled units, kind of like intercoolers, but useless when the car is sitting & waiting for run.
Ron
No engineering degree here, so I couldn't tell you about the perfect absolute best atomization temperature. But depending on the temp of the fuel before it gets to the can, the only way to adjust the amount of temp decrease would be the amount of exposure (length of hose & size of hose) in the can to the ice.
I've also seen air cooled units, kind of like intercoolers, but useless when the car is sitting & waiting for run.
Ron
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
Originally posted by Mr_Happy
NHRA outlawed cool cans so its not usable at the track, used to be a common thing until fuel systems with return lines became common which keep fuel cool by circulating fuel.
NHRA outlawed cool cans so its not usable at the track, used to be a common thing until fuel systems with return lines became common which keep fuel cool by circulating fuel.
LOL ron! thats exactly what I had in mind!
and here I thought i was onto something original
:sillylol:
I'll build one anyway and hide it under my air cleaner if i have to.
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
The way I see it though.. colder gas entering a hot motor will cause the fuel to want to expand... vapourized gas being heated should result in a more efficient fuel atomization..
If anything though, a cool can will do wonders for keeping my car consistant run after run.
If anything though, a cool can will do wonders for keeping my car consistant run after run.
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Anybody have the page & section # from the NHRA rule book that outlaws cool cans? I've had mine on the '57 since August, it was inspected for the Division V Summit Finals and nothing was said.
I posted about cool cans on the carb board earlier this summer. I made mine from a 3# coffee can with aluminum 3/8" fuel line coiled inside. I soldered/RTV'd a radiator petcock to the bottom for draining purposes. No insulation on the can itself. It sweats, but doesn't leak.
Comes in especially handy when getting to the later rounds without much cooldown time. I also recently covered the lines after the cool can with Thermo Sleeve, that helped a big bunch.
I posted about cool cans on the carb board earlier this summer. I made mine from a 3# coffee can with aluminum 3/8" fuel line coiled inside. I soldered/RTV'd a radiator petcock to the bottom for draining purposes. No insulation on the can itself. It sweats, but doesn't leak.
Comes in especially handy when getting to the later rounds without much cooldown time. I also recently covered the lines after the cool can with Thermo Sleeve, that helped a big bunch.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
No. I'm using it for the sake of consistency.
Last race I jetted down the primaries and jetted up the secondaries. Drove better on the freeway going to the track, and ran great at the track.
In theory, warmer gasoline should vaporize more easily, promoting more complete combustion in the cylinder. Cooler fuel will require warmer air to vaporize it, and we all know what happens with warmer air. But, boiling fuel in the float bowls is no good at all.
Last race I jetted down the primaries and jetted up the secondaries. Drove better on the freeway going to the track, and ran great at the track.
In theory, warmer gasoline should vaporize more easily, promoting more complete combustion in the cylinder. Cooler fuel will require warmer air to vaporize it, and we all know what happens with warmer air. But, boiling fuel in the float bowls is no good at all.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
2002 rulebook. General regulations 1:5 page 194
Cool cans in full-bodied cars must be mounted a minimum of 6 inches forward of the firewall.
Page 195 (fuel/air) (brief and not exactly quoted)
Any method of artificially cooling or heating is permitted.
Even with all the cars I see at the track when I go racing I don't think I've seen anyone using a cool can yet. A class car or stock/superstock racer that's trying to squeeze every last bit of power out of the engine may want to use a cool can but your average bracket racer won't bother.
If you insulate your fuel lines, keep them away from the exhaust system and use a carb plate you shouldn't be boiling the fuel anyway.
Cool cans in full-bodied cars must be mounted a minimum of 6 inches forward of the firewall.
Page 195 (fuel/air) (brief and not exactly quoted)
Any method of artificially cooling or heating is permitted.
Even with all the cars I see at the track when I go racing I don't think I've seen anyone using a cool can yet. A class car or stock/superstock racer that's trying to squeeze every last bit of power out of the engine may want to use a cool can but your average bracket racer won't bother.
If you insulate your fuel lines, keep them away from the exhaust system and use a carb plate you shouldn't be boiling the fuel anyway.
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