Flue Pump Blues
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T-56
Flue Pump Blues
Ok, I am fairly certain that my problem may be my fuel pump. If this is the case, what's the process of replacing it. Is it in tank? Someone give me some info on this please, thanks.
Well, are you sitting down?
First thing to do is have someone look into your throttle body while you're cranking the engine and make sure that its not getting fuel before proceeding with the fuel pump job.
If it indeed is not getting fuel then hopefully you have access to a hoist and air tools. If not you're in for a hell of a job.
Heres a brief procedure:
MAKE SURE THE TANK IS AS EMPTY AS POSSIBLE. SIPHON IF NECESSARY.
1) Lift car as high up as you possibly can. You will need all the room you can get. MAKE SURE ITS SAFELY SUPPORTED.
2) Take off the rear wheels.
3) Open fuel door and remove all screws retaining the plastic panels and the filler door itself and remove the filler door and plastic cover panels around the fuel filler neck. Also remove gas cap.
4) Unbolt rear panhard bar from its mount on the passenger side of vehicle. Lower or completely remove panhard bar. Also remove the upper bolt to the bar support. Its right above the last bolt you would have removed.
5) Support rear axle. Unbolt rear lower shocks from rearend.
6) Remove retaining bolt that holds brake T to the rear end.
7) Lower the rear end down slowly and remove rear coil springs from both sides.
8) Unbolt and or remove muffler and tailpipes.
9) Remove aluminum shield (7mm bolts).
10) Unfasten fuel lines from tank (drivers side)... Unplug wiring harness from body.
11) Unbolt bolts retaining the gas tank straps and let the tank down.
12) Pull down hard on the passenger side of the tank and bent the filler tube down and slide the tank out.
Now comes the dagerous part. You are going to have gas fumes all around so no smoking or any other open flames!
You will need a tool or some skills with a hammer and screwdriver to remove the retaining ring that holds the sender in the tank. Spin the ring until the tabs line up with the opposite side and pull the sender out and replace the pump/screen in the bottom.
Careful not to bend or force anything. That will screw up your fuel gauge like the previous owner of mine did
Hope this helps. This is not for an amateur.
First thing to do is have someone look into your throttle body while you're cranking the engine and make sure that its not getting fuel before proceeding with the fuel pump job.
If it indeed is not getting fuel then hopefully you have access to a hoist and air tools. If not you're in for a hell of a job.
Heres a brief procedure:
MAKE SURE THE TANK IS AS EMPTY AS POSSIBLE. SIPHON IF NECESSARY.
1) Lift car as high up as you possibly can. You will need all the room you can get. MAKE SURE ITS SAFELY SUPPORTED.
2) Take off the rear wheels.
3) Open fuel door and remove all screws retaining the plastic panels and the filler door itself and remove the filler door and plastic cover panels around the fuel filler neck. Also remove gas cap.
4) Unbolt rear panhard bar from its mount on the passenger side of vehicle. Lower or completely remove panhard bar. Also remove the upper bolt to the bar support. Its right above the last bolt you would have removed.
5) Support rear axle. Unbolt rear lower shocks from rearend.
6) Remove retaining bolt that holds brake T to the rear end.
7) Lower the rear end down slowly and remove rear coil springs from both sides.
8) Unbolt and or remove muffler and tailpipes.
9) Remove aluminum shield (7mm bolts).
10) Unfasten fuel lines from tank (drivers side)... Unplug wiring harness from body.
11) Unbolt bolts retaining the gas tank straps and let the tank down.
12) Pull down hard on the passenger side of the tank and bent the filler tube down and slide the tank out.
Now comes the dagerous part. You are going to have gas fumes all around so no smoking or any other open flames!
You will need a tool or some skills with a hammer and screwdriver to remove the retaining ring that holds the sender in the tank. Spin the ring until the tabs line up with the opposite side and pull the sender out and replace the pump/screen in the bottom.
Careful not to bend or force anything. That will screw up your fuel gauge like the previous owner of mine did
Hope this helps. This is not for an amateur.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
its really not that hard it just requires some patience and the right tools.. took me 25 mins to do mine and i've never changed an intank pump in a 3rd gen before
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
also i forgot to check to see if search is working agian, however i believe some people here have rigged up old style mechanical fuel pumps after their electric ones went dead, from what i understand you just hook the mech pump up and it will pull fuel through the old burnt out electric pump and you have to add a vented gas cap... it sounds like it should work in theory but i have never tried it. This fix is reasonable if you are running a carbed car but i dont believe you would be able to get enough pressure out of a mech pump to support any type of fuel injection
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Originally posted by TMoNeE
A shop where my friend gets all his work done quoted me 300 bucks to do my pump, good deal?
A shop where my friend gets all his work done quoted me 300 bucks to do my pump, good deal?
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