ok well i just got done buttoning everything up from taking off the heads. they studs pulled out on cylnder #6, so after being told 3days i go to puck up my refreashend heads 3 1/2 weeks later.

i finally get a break in the weather, put the heads on and torque the bolts to 720 INCH pounds because my FT one was 3.4 drive and i needed 3/8, any ways

today i threw on the intake, bolted up exhaust, carb, really hooked everything else on.

TRIPPLE CHECK everything, go to start it, cranks over then stops and just *click*click*click*click*click*click* i i go back check everything, same thing but it just clicks,

so what the **** is wrong here im trying tog et this ****ign car running so i can sell the dam thing. whats wrong. is it the starter going/gone or did i **** up with the heads, i've done a head swap before and know how the hell to do it, so whats wrong??

 

dead battery?
shotty connection on the starter?
defanitly a 12v problem

 

battery is fine, i was playing music for 30 minutes after i stopped trying to crank it over with my sub going, and i had no problems with teh starter befoer i took off the heads and i checked that.

so im thinking its the starter thats going/gone. but ill go toss the battery on the charger.

 

The clicking is coming from the starter. It means that it doesn't have enough power to turn the pinion. Instead, it just clicks.

 

oh thanks thats what i kinda thought but wasnt sure, so the battery is on the charger and when its charged ill try it again.

 

the starter solenoid being bad could also cause it to just click...

 

Try and tap it with a hammer, the starter, while someone else cranks it. That sometimes gets the pinion to engage if it gets stuck.

 

ok well i charged the battery, no more clicking, but the ****er still wonr run, it just cranks over a few times then dies out. something is ****ing up and really pissing me off.

 

Have you checked all your ****ing relays...and goddamn fuseable links to the starter?..

 

that really really sounds like a solenoid

 

is there anything else that it could be??

and what are the fuses for the starter, everything is hooked up to the starter and ive gone over everything else,

the starter seems to be working fine, it seems to be something else, but it could still be the starter, today ill go take a video of my car while im cranking it over so you guys can see and hear whats going on.

 

Wait I am confused. The car cranks but will not run? In the earlier posts it sounds like you said that it will not crank or run? Please clarify.

BTW, the fuseable links are in the wiring that runs to the starter. If you use your handy DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter) just check for continuity between the battery positive and the starter battery connection post. IF you get and OL reading or simply no reading then I would say they are shot. Personally, I have not yet encountered them going bad on a 3rd gen. Actually, I don't think I have ever encountered a bad or blown fuse link.

 

FLs are located about 6 to 10 inches from the starter on the wires going to it. They are usually hidden in the corrugated black tubing. If one is bad dont just chop and splice(FIRE,FIRE,FIRE)buy a new one at autozone for a couple bucks.It sounds to me like the starter is on the way out

 

Did you check to make sure the car is getting spark? I can't count how many times I've forgotten something stupid like hooking up the distributor and sat there like a dumbass wondering whats wrong......

 

well the starter is new, i know its getting spark ebcause i had my girlfriend crank it over while i held the wire with some plyers, well i know it has spark because i was holding part of the metal of the handles and it shocked the crap out of me. i checked everyone. so now i have to trace down what its not running...

and yes it cranks but wont run.

 

sounds like your distributor is out about 2 teeth. go to TDC and reset your distributor with the rotor facing #1 cylinder.

 

It has to be timing related. Do as stated above. Possibly its a major vacuum leak but I bet its timing.

Have somebody crank the car while you steadily advance and retard the timing. Advance it as far as possible and retard it as far as possible too. The car will probably backfire out of the intake and attempt to start. Now you'll know that its a timing problem. If nothing happens don't count out a distributor problem because that means it could be in waaaaayyy wrong.

 

well i thought i put the distributor back in the way its soposted to be, i marked it on the firewall where the rotor was pointing when i pulled it, then made sure every thing else is right but i pull it again to put oil in, so it colud be off, ill check today when i get home since its actually sunny for the first time in a while.

 

Ummm....not to accuse you of being a dumbass or anything...but are the plugs wires run correctly? I had taken mine off to put in the headers and forgot to label them. So, when I wired them up, I was one off. #1 on #2, #2 on #3, etc. So, It would not start.

 

Same thing happened when I swapped my intake manifold. Turned out that after replacing my distributor, I put the #1 plug wire on the wrong post and thus every wire was one post off. After correcting this and resetting the timing the engine fired perfectly.

Hey Squeek, I live pretty close to Normandy Park, so if it still isn't running by Thursday, I could come by and give you a hand.

 

If the fusible link to the starter is bad, there wont be any clicky noises at all. Oh wait........no ****ing clicky noises.

 

RSFreak: thats cool man, i tried chckign the wires today, nothing i had them all going to the right plugs, and i never took them off the cap.

and i checked timing, its not the problem. its somethign else unless it is the distributor off by a tooth or two. ill have to pull it tomarrow and see.

 

Your right my bad.....********

 

How did you check the timing if the car wont start..

 

hes talking distributor teeth i believe

 

no i didnt pull the distributor yet, but i slightly loosened the distributor hold down and had my girlfriend crank her over while i slowly and easily turned the distributor, it seemed to get a lttle better but i think yo all are right, i think i dropped the distributor in a tooth or something off, because when i pulled it and then tried to put it back in it would drop, i had to reallign the oil pump drive shaft when it would drop, so i think it is off.

 

If I were you, I would pull #1 TDC and check the rotor. If it does not point to the tower with the #1 plug wire attached to it, then just redo your ignition cables, easy enough, and then that is one thing you can take off your list.

 

na i rather put it to TDC then pull the distributor, and reallign it. rather then just change around the plug wires, because what if i want to take them off later and forget and have to go throught this again. no thanks.

 

Whatever floats your boat...