Well, my converter(melted inside) and muffler(hole threw it) are shot. The car has shorty headers on it, but im not sure the brand.The guy i bougth the car off of has a deeper oil pan and listen to this a 2" press bent y-pipe(talk about restrictive). Well i took it to the local shop and they said i cant go any bigger then a 2.25" y-pipe and even that is gonna be touching the oil pan. Now i dont have any ideas on what to do. he siad i could run 3" duals from the shoties with some custom work(press bent). I have275s in the back so im a little better on ground clearance but still. Also the mufflers would be in the middle of the car so theres no room for cats. And i dont know when my emissons will be coming. I also ahve a chance at a pair of slp headers, slp y-pipe and 3" flowmaster american thunder for 400 bucks (which is all i have)But then i gotta get the engine pulled and the oil panned change which is prolly gonna be alot. Please guys set-ups or any kinda help woud be awesome

 

Forget about the 3" duals, too big anyways, and way to much of a PITA. If i were you i would think about a cat back, and a fabricated y pipe. Ground clearence way or may not be an
issue with the fabbed y pipe. (probably not)

I would forget about the press bent stuff, order some mandrel bends rom summit or Jegs and draw up a plan on a custom y pipe that will work for you and your oil pan...A local welder should be able to weld her all together, and you can still get the Fowmaster, and you'll be good to go for emissions.

BC

 

What benefit is there in running this misfit oil pan, to you, and to your car?

If it was me, I'd lose the oil pan that doesn't fit the car; put a normal one on there; and get a regular, off-the-shelf, set of headers and high-flow cat and cat-back. From what I can recall of your car, you don't need special oil pans, and true duals would be a net loss to your car's actual performance, due to the lack of need vs. the extra weight.

 

Yes, i know the oil pan is not the most genius thing on there and i also didnt put it there. I dont have the money right now to have someone pull the engine and replace it with a stocker. The oil pan is about an 8 quart so it sits pretty low to the ground. When u say a fabbed y-pipe what do u mean. Where can i buy one and such.

 

Why pay somebody else to change it? Do it yourself. Go to the local rental yard, rent yourself a cherry-picker, lift the motor far enough to get to it, and be done with it.

You'll spend vastly more money trying to get out of spending money, than you will by just spending the money right, once, the first time, and being through with it. And you'll end up with a better result besides.

 

would there be anyway of doing this without having to change the oil pan. Anyone?

 

RB83L69 is right , this would be the best way to go. But the ony other decent route would be with a fabbed y pipe.

What i meant about a fabbed y pipe is to order Mandrel bends from Jegs or Summit, (check them out in the exhaust section of their web site) and actually make your own.

A local welder should be able to weld the pieces together for you for around $50.00 or so.

BC

 

Yea see, i would love to just have a fabbed y-pipe. But it jsut aint gonna fit. THe section were the oil pan is sitting and frame is there is only clearence for about a 2" pipe. However there looked to be a possible way to run around the oil pan but hte guy said ground clearence would be a problem. Anoyone know how long it might take to change an oil pan. Were to get a stock one?

 

I have a stock oil pan I'll sell ya cheap, its for a 1 piece rear seal. It's clean and has been repainted Moroso orange, you'll need a new oil pick up too.

$30.00 plus shipping.

Overall the job really isn't too bad. It gonna take you probably 3-5 hours, its kinda of difficult to answer how long it depends on your experience.

It need's to get done so plan a weekend and "JUST DO IT".

BC

 

Anyone know if the engine needs to be pulled to do an oil pan change?

 

If i was to run 2 1/2" pipes from each header(shorty headers) and in the middle fo the ar have converters and at the end of the ar have one of those little bullet mufflers or glasspacks. Would this work? Im looking for it to kinda look like deadbird"s set-up. Im currently having major problems with having to put a y-pipe on cuz of an oil pan problem. So imput is welcome.

 

You will have to pull or lift the engine a few inches to change the pan. It does not have to come all the way out. For example, you shouldn't have to disconnect the radiator or heater hoses, the wiring, etc; they have enough slack.

The 3-5 hour estimate is probably not too far off.

I would not try to alternately engineer some other parts that don't fit onto the car, to attempt to make up for a part that already is known not to fit.

I don't know why you're so intent on leaving that oil pan on there, and spending money on half-assing stuff around it instead, which will end up costing you more than doing it right and leave you with a job that ..... isn't right. The oil pan is the problem. Get rid of it. Don't rig stuff around it. Do it right.

 

Well i cant and dont have money or time to change the oil pan but it will be done in the future. However, the local shop said they will run strragiht pipes(2.25") with dynomax bullet mufflers for only 350. However it is gonna be machine bent. But i mean would this be better then a 2" y-pipe. No oil pan change guys yet

 

Oil pan = $30, cherrry-picker = $40, gasket = $20

Total cost of doing the job right = $90
Cost of rigging it with inferior results = $350

Congrats on getting a great deal