Chevy daeler called me yesterday and told me my trans is shot. The gears are worn down and someother stuff and they said it would cost more to rebuild than buy new at this point. Now the price has come down from the $2000 they originally had told me. They want $1700 for the new tranny which includes labor and the $300 teardown charge that they did to see what was wrong. I was thinking of getting one from pro built stage 1 instaed which are $1100 I believe, and have the dealer put in that one since it handels a little more horsepower, but i dont think it comes with a warrenty like the GM trans does. should I get the pro built? Is It reliable for everyday use?

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1987 Iroc 350
GTS headlight/tail light covers
Camaro SS Wheels w/Sumitomo HTR ZII 275 rear, 255's in front
K&N filters
Adjustable Borla cat back
Large tube runners
ported plenum
Holley afpr
Hopefully Coming Soon: Emissions legal daily diven 383,afr heads, cam??, Slp 1 3/4 headers, super ram, high flow base, strengthened 700r4. any suggestions please tell!!

Some pics of it at
http://photos.yahoo.com/john5911

 

Sounds like it's time for a T56 to me

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

I agree with Jim....

but, if you must stay with the 700R4, make sure that the dealer isn't selling you a remanufactured tranny. When my 700R4 blew, I called around to dealers, places like Aamco, etc and the dealers said they only use remanfuactured 700R4's. I'd go with the Pro-Built one.... take your chances

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1989 IROC-Z
350c.i. TPI
rebuilt 700R4 with shift kit
3'' Monza Pacesetter cat back exhaust (minus the muffler)[SOUNDS OF THIS ON MY WEBPAGE]
new dual cats
3.23 Posi rear
hypertech chip
under drive pulleys
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
K&N Air Filters
Excalibur alarm, keyless entry and remote start
new:
struts, shocks, bearings, distributor, cap, rotor, alternator, battery, regulator
245 ZR16 50 Tires, Rotors and brake pads all the way around

Go to my webpage to find out more about it.
You can also see pictures, and hear sounds as well.
http://go.to/iroc-z

AOL IMer: JRShotliff

 

to simplefy things i would go with a built 700r4. TransGo shift kit is a must. corvette servo, 9 clutch packs(6 stock) and a 10 vean pump. i had mine rebuit, it cost me $610 canadian.and wile the trans is out, you should put a higher stall converter in.

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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast

 

Go for the T-56, that's what I did after I blew up 3 700-R4's.

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AKA Pony Punisher II on all other boards.

89' Iroc-Z
ZZ3 short block-355 TPI ZZ9 cam
NOS 150 shot.
blah...blah...blah..
95' T-56, 6-speed
99' Z' rearend w/ 4.10's
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1997 black Trans AM
A4, bone stock except for the Flowmaster.

 

btw, the T56 swap wouldn't cost any more.

 

the gm dealers should be pricing you for a syrta trans. it is all brand new throughout. i'd recomend one from jet, b and m,tpi, or tci. all three have the updated parts such as higher volume pumps, larger apply servo, shift kit, etc.

 

Why do so many people like the damn T56? Its only a good performance transmission if you have like a 4.11 rear end.
The ratios of the T56 are: 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.0, .74, .50
Good ratios for fuel economy, but we don't drive our f-bodies for mpg. Look how high they are, plus you have 2 overdrive gears, that makes no sence.

Look at the Richmond 6 speed: 3.27, 2.14, 1.57, 1.23, 1.0, .76 or get the fuel consisous version: 3.01, 1.88, 1.46, 1.18, 1.0, .62.
Either way, you get a transmission that has much closer gearing than any T56. Closer gears = less RPM drop between gears = faster car.
I know that the fuel consious R6 worked great in my friends 88 IROC 305, it dropped his ETs by .4 over his old T5.


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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Components, K&N Filters, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.3 @ 97mph
(corrected for elevation)

 

Get one from B&M--I loved mine. If you're looking for all the frills of a manual (i.e. T56) get a rachet shifter. That way you can decide when and where you want to manually shift the car, instead of having to do it all the time... Maunals are great except in drive-thrus, traffic, when at stoplights going uphill, etc...etc...etc...etc...

 

A Richmond? 2 reasons for the T56. 1 Availability. You can get them at a lot of junk yards. 2 price. You can get them used for a decent price usually. I can bet you could look for a richmond for a long time and never find one in a junk yard. Actually when you drag race dont you want to be in 1:1 gear when you go through the traps? With the richmond you have to shift an extra time to get to 1:1. My t-56 is 2.97 1.94, 1.35 1.00 0.84 0.62 which is fairly close to the second listing. And It was MUCH cheaper than a richmond.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy

[This message has been edited by scooter (edited September 28, 2000).]

 

Heres what I did. I had to get the one from the Chevy dealer. It is a rebuilt unit that has all the upgrades gm made throughout the yaers. The reason I had to go with this one is because my school is 25miles away and I NEED my car and cannot get there any other way and I need the car very soon because of this, so I couldnot wait around for one to be shipped. It has a 3 year warranty and hopefully it will hold up.