I've heard a lot about AC Rapidfires, but they're too expensive. How are Bosch platinums (not Plus4)? Which wires should I use. Everybody's says Accel doesn't last very long. How about MSD or Taylor? Although I'm not changing the coil right away, I will later. So I need wires that can handle the increased energy. Same question about the cap and rotor. Should I just get the OEM replacement or get something by ACCEL or MSD?

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler

 

I run Taylors in everything. they have a strong spiralwound core, tough silicone insulation and thick boots and you can get them in about any configuration and color you can dream of. I would just run the stock AC plugs in your car, I've never seen any proof anywhere that a plug can increase power, mileage or anything. I have run bosch platinums and had descent luck but you cannot tell what they are doing and how they are lasting. Right now I run Accel header plugs for clearance. I've run accel's in the past and they seem to run just as well as any other plug. I would suggest either running AC's, accel's or bosch platinums. On the other spectrum, I have definitely seen a plug make a car run crappy. Try running autolites or champions in a GM and you'll find out what I mean. Most every engine is developed to run on a certain spark plug and may not work well with another design. I can't getover the amount of people that believe all the stories the plug makers are dishing out with the multiple electrode plugs. Electricity ALWAYS follows the path of least resistance. They will only make one spark in one spot. For a good spark, you want a sharp edge to jump from. That's where the rapidfires have their advantage, lots of sharp edges so they should theoretically perform at full potential for a longer time. I don't know anyone that's run them so I can't verify that though. I do know that splitfires are worthless. For the cap and rotor, I run Accel parts because of the brass contacts which will not corrode as easy. you will not see any performance from any of these parts, you only want to find durable parts that will perform to full potential for the maximum life. This is the reason I run the components I do. Kyle

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Kyle Osterholt
Okarche, Oklahoma
ASE Master Certified
86 T/A 383 TPI
89 TTA #1002 T-top/Leather
89 TTA #1358 Hardtop/Leather
80 T/A Pace Car
73 Opel GT

 

Well said Kyle. I run reguler AC-R45ts plugs changem often not to expensive but keeps the car running good. and as for a cap, i use either MSD or ACCEL or AC. KEM also makes ones / brass terminals. i found they carode and get reel crappy much faster since i added the Accel coil and MSD 6A

-Stell

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1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans , K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp Switch
And Always Trying To Go Faster

 

I have used alot of plug wires and I just put on a set of taylors and I must say I like them, they seem tough they look goos and work good and the fit is great, I am useing rapid fire plugs and I like them, when I used them before in a older motor they fouled quickly but now that i have a new motor I like them alot and have had no problems.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

If your not going to go with the AC Delco rapid fires, just get some regular AC Delcos. We learned in my auto mech class that you want to use OEM style parts for replacement.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Components, K&N Filters, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.3 @ 97mph
(corrected for elevation)

 

Yeah I agree with you guys. Mutielectrode plugs don't do jack to increase HP and last thing I want to do is foul up my plugs.

The plugs I have right now have virtually no electrode wear. Should I still change them? The only problem I have is with a hard shiny black crud that builds up on the edges of the plug away from the electrodes.

As for the dist. cap and rotor, I guess I'll go with either Accel or AC. Taylor for the wires.


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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler

 

I've run Splitfires in my car since '94, and noticed none of the problems people associate with 'em.

Once I tried Accel U-grooves... talk about hell! They brag about having a brass terminal for the plug wire to clamp onto. Well those brass terminals loved to unscrew on their own, and cause misfires. I retightented them so many times, and after a half a year, just got rid of 'em for some normal AC's (since I didn't have the cash for the SF's). I even put the plugs in a vise, and used vise-grips on the terminals- they still unscrewed on their own. I went back to the store and tried some "new in box" ones- they all unscrewed with medium effort. No more Accel for me!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

If you are going to be running msd 6al, Then get either a accel or msd cap an d rotor, my brand new gm one melted within day's

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

that's interesting Tom. I've run the accel plugs for about 4 years now and never had one unscrew on me. I have had a couple feel loose when pulling off the wires but never backed off more than about 1/4 turn. I did tighten them on one set I installed and they were just as tight when I changed them. I cannot say how long the plugs last because I usually change mine way before they are recommended to be changed just so that I keep a fresh set in the motor to keep them from fouling or causing problems. I've never really run into any problems with splitfires, just that they have proven they are not worth the extra cost. My friend ran them in his 93 t/a for a while for the sole reason that they were cheaper than the factory plugs. He has since started running NGK's because they are cheaper yet. They seem to last about the same as a stock AC plug but cost about 4 times as much in our case. He tried to get rapidfires but they didn't show to have them for his application which was odd since the LT1 is so widely used. just goes to show the variation in results between people, Kyle

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Kyle Osterholt
Okarche, Oklahoma
ASE Master Certified
86 T/A 383 TPI
89 TTA #1002 T-top/Leather
89 TTA #1358 Hardtop/Leather
80 T/A Pace Car
73 Opel GT

 

I've had good luck with the NGK V-power plugs,the electode is a V on top,(V-power)
they work good and were $1.50 a peice so the price isn't to bad either.

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88 black gta
tb coolant bypass
gutted maf
gutted air boxes
no cats or smog
700r with a snior citizen discount
bald tires

 

I use regulal AC plugs Taylor Spiral Pro Wires (Very Nice) MSD 6AL Accel Cap and rotor and Accel Supercoil. Everything works great for me.

 

So should I change my plugs or not? I don't know if my plugs are fouled up or not. They seem OK to me. Can somebody give me the part nos for an Accel cap and rotor for my IROC?

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler

 

88, pull #1 (usually the easiest) and look at the color of the porcelan and the gap of the electrode. While different cylinders will have different readings, a quick check of #1 will give you an indicator of whether to change them or leave them in; without looking at EVERYONE (in which case you might as well change them).

 

I should add, the color of the porcelan should have a nice "rusty to tan" color. Dark, sooty or black oily means a plug change is in order. Also, a great widening in the gap (over .045 if originally .035) also indicates the plugs are due for a change.

 

The only plug I couldn't reach without getting under the car was the last one on the passenger side. All the plugs were a nice rusty/tan color as you said, but the gap was huge, somewhere around 0.050". I suspect these plugs were originally gapped wrong to begin with, because the gap was exactly the same on all of them.

------------------
'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler