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Ever use that motor flush? Comments?

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Old Oct 2, 2000 | 03:18 PM
  #1  
1992 B4C 1LE's Avatar
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From: Santa Clara, CA
Ever use that motor flush? Comments?

Hey all,
Has anyone ever used that "motor flush?" You use it right before a oil change. Poor it in and idle your car for a couple of minutes? I'm about to do the first oil change since I bought my car. I'm going to go with the GM performance filter (PF-35L) and synthetic oil. Any recommendations on oil? weight? I'm in California, so it's doesn't get that cold. Any comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks. John
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Old Oct 2, 2000 | 07:27 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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Transmission: 5
Add a can of ATF, drive the car 1000 miles or so, then change it. ATF is extremely high detergent and will eat the schmutz out of there, you won't believe how black your oil will be from the stuff that it dissolves.

That's a good filter. Use Mobil 1, 5W-30 or 10W-30.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited October 02, 2000).]
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Old Oct 2, 2000 | 08:11 PM
  #3  
Red Devil's Avatar
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
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Motor flush = ACK! YECK!! PTOOEY!
I'm with RB on this, tranny fluid baby! He beat me to it! The only thing is I run it for only 500-700 mi. but the tranny fluid works wonders.
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 12:10 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The AMSOIL flush is highly superior to anything on the parts stores' shelves or ATF. It'll get stuff the others leave for your synthetic to clean up.

10W30 is fine for your use.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, ported heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 01:30 PM
  #5  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
When I was on vacation in Virginia Beach, and waiting for my girlfriend to get out of the shower, I picked up the complimentary paper, and found the car section.

There was a spot where you could "write in" with questions. One guy said he blew up his Toyota motor.. all he had done was a motor flush and oil change, a week later he heard a clicking noise as he passed a semi, and the motor seized up shortly after.

The mechanic wrote back, saying that a motor flush will definatley break up all the crap, and send it into the pan. He said from there, it gets sucked against the oil pump pickup, blocks oil flow, and runs the motor dry. He said he only does it before he tears an engine down for a rebuild.

Is there any truth to that? Or was it just due to the car being a Toyota?


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 04:10 PM
  #6  
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
For an abused/neglected engine that didn't get the oil changed regularly, enough sludge can be built up to do that. A simple solvent will indeed send that stuff to the pan. You can usually tell from just looking under the fill cap how bad the engine is before you go about a flush. Light deposits, go ahead. Heavy buildup, you'd better flush and drain more than once before you drive it for extended periods.

For an engine that had regular petroleum based oil changes, there will be varnish deposits that will be desolved by the synthetic. There won't be enough to clog the pickup screen when flushed, but it will dirty your oil quickly if a flush isn't used before the synthetic is put in.
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 05:47 PM
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1992 B4C 1LE's Avatar
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From: Santa Clara, CA
I have to say... Never heard the ATF trick. How much do I put in? The car has been very well maintained, so I don't expect to much sludge, etc. Thanks for the help. John
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 06:09 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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Transmission: 5
Here's the instructions. Be careful to follow all steps in the exact order given.

1. Twist top of quart container to remove.

2. Remove oil fill cap.

3. Invert container above oil fill hole.

4. Suspend container above hole until empty.

5. Replace oil fill cap.

That's all there is to it... even I can manage it, on a good day at least.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited October 03, 2000).]
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 06:18 PM
  #9  
1992 B4C 1LE's Avatar
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From: Santa Clara, CA
All I asked was how much... You had stated a "can" in a previous post. Last I checked, cans were made of metal, not plastic. All the ATF and OIL quarts I've seen are made of plastic.

I didn't get the memo stating the new rule of measurement, 1 CAN = 1 Quart. Can some forward me that memo? John.
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Old Oct 3, 2000 | 10:27 PM
  #10  
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
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Originally posted by 1992 B4C 1LE:
... You had stated a "can" in a previous post... All the ATF and OIL quarts I've seen are made of plastic...

Hahaha, don't sweat it, RB is just dating himself!!
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