I got a set of 081 heads for free from a machine shop. How should i build these?? There going in my 305 TBI and i'm looking for a LT1 cam. and i think i'm going to put 1.94/1.60 valves in the heads what should i buy for this build.

 

Use the cheap Manley undercut valves (~$75 each I & E), I think they call them "Street Flow"; springs from one of the major cam mfrs with retainers & keepers, just their entry-level ones such as Comp 981 etc.; some gentle port work in the bowls, mostly remove the artifacts of installing the larger valves; smooth the short-side radius and the roof around the guide boss; roller-tip or better rocker arms that aren't rubber, and preferably not aluminum, such as Comp 1418.

 

just to clarify.....

i believe rb is referring to $75 for each set of valves. you would need an intake set and an exhaust set. so ~$150 for new valves that will last you a while.

you'll need a set of valve seals..... the felpro positive type seals have been suggested before by rb as well as ede. i think they run ~$20. i'm sure someone will correct me.

free is good.

best of luck on your build up, and please ask if you have any other questions

 

ok i got your what you said. i have one problem. can anyone tell me exact parts to use?? these are going to be bare heads. i want to use 1.6 ratio roller steel rockers. and i'm going to use the LT1 cam or something like that. If anyone has a good idea on cams that would help to. i've heard you need different springs if you use the LT1 cam.

here is what looked at from JEGS

Magnum rocker arms
249-1418-16 1.6,3/8 std
87-up self align heads 191.99

Manley street flo vavles
660-10765-1 exh 1.6 7.99
660-10722-1 int 1.94 8.69

Double valve springs
249-986-16 1.440'' diameter double spring w/damper. Valve lift up to 560''. 120# @ 1.800'' closed, 290# @ 1.250'' open, coil bind @ 1.100'' 84.99

mr gasket street screw-in rocker studs
720-1076 3/8 straight 27.99
720-1075 3/8 w/shoulder 39.99

is this what i should use and what am i missing??

 

Robertg is correct about the valves, those prices I gave were in fact per set of intakes and set of exhausts, so it somes out to $140 or $150 for a full engine's worth.

That all looks like the right stuff.

I'd recommend the studs with a shoulder, so they'll tighten down against the boss and stay put. Use some Loctite PST, Pipe Sealer w/Teflon (whatever they call it now - they are changing all their part #s) on the threads.

Those springs are 1.45" outer diameter, and won't fit in the stock spring pockets, so you'll need to have them cut out, at the same time you're getting the bowls cut for larger valves. You'll need to add the retainers, keepers, and valve guide seals to that list. After that you should be good to go. I'd recommend the Teflon seals from either Comp (part # 503 IIRC) or Crane; have your machinist cut the guides to .530" outer diameter for them.

 

i keep adding these hoping this helps people. Hows this look. couldn't find any keepers?

Crane Cams Valve Spring Retainers
270-99951-16 7° Steel Retainers 11/32'' 1.460'' od Dual for self-aligning rocker arms $56.99

Crane Cams Valve Stem Locks
270-99096-1 7° 11/32'' Diameter Valve Stem Locks; -.050'' Height $31.99

Comp Cams Valve Stem Seals
249-503-16 11/32'', Teflon Seals $24.99

 

locks = keepers

Those should do it.

 

I think most folks don't use teflon seals on the street. They don't wear well.

 

Lots of people also do use them on the street. I've used them exclusively for decades. They wear fine. Upwards of 100,000 miles; basically, the lifetime of a set of heads in anything like performance trim. By the time they wear out, lots of other things have beat them to it.

 

If your going with the lt1 cam then those springs are overkill...I installed a set of zz3 springs ($32) with my lt1 cam and I have 1.6 rollers..That way you wont have to open up the spring seats.