Readjusting Shift Points and Tach
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Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 420
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From: Miami, Florida
Car: 1990 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Readjusting Shift Points and Tach
what do i need to do to change my shift points on my iroc? first thing i need to do is fix my tach though. it reads 1500 when it's on idle... and when i rev the car it goes past 7 grand and stays in the black. i know my tach's wrong, and that my car's shifting too high. i can't see where the tach really is, but usually when it revs real high before it shifts, i feel no power. doesn't feel like the tranny is slipping, just feels like i have no power. im pretty sure if i can fix my tach, i can see where im shifting and lower down the shift point so that i could get quicker times... any suggestions on either the tach and/or how to fix my shift points? thanks for your help guys
Last edited by dj haf; Oct 7, 2003 at 11:50 PM.
I had the same tach problem with my 82 Z28. When I eventually took my tach out I realized part of the circuit board was fried. A trip to the wrecker got me a $10 replacement tach. As to your shift points I'm not too sure. Regardless, I would fix the tach before getting started with the tranny.
Aftermarket tach would work fine. There's a tech article on this website about installing an aftermarket tach (wiring, etc).
The tranny's governor determines shift points in these older non-computer controlled trannys. It's a springs-n-weights kinda deal that sits under a small metal "cup" on the driver's side of the tranny, back near the tailshaft. Pop off the clip, pry off the cap and change out the springs and weights for different ones. B&M and others make tranny governor recalibration kits that give you a variety of weights and springs.
The tranny's governor determines shift points in these older non-computer controlled trannys. It's a springs-n-weights kinda deal that sits under a small metal "cup" on the driver's side of the tranny, back near the tailshaft. Pop off the clip, pry off the cap and change out the springs and weights for different ones. B&M and others make tranny governor recalibration kits that give you a variety of weights and springs.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 972
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From: Memphis, Tn
Car: 92' RS
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.10
On the TV cable there's a button. Read the Tech articales. Heres the link Adjusting The TV Detent Cable
Adjusting the button and letting it slide towards the headlights will back the shift points down. I slid mine pretty far that way i can manually shift at any RPM above 2500rpm. If you slide it back to far it will wait longer to shift and will go past redline before it shifts. If you slide it WAY to far back you'll "REALLY" mess up!
Adjusting the button and letting it slide towards the headlights will back the shift points down. I slid mine pretty far that way i can manually shift at any RPM above 2500rpm. If you slide it back to far it will wait longer to shift and will go past redline before it shifts. If you slide it WAY to far back you'll "REALLY" mess up!
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, Tn
Car: 92' RS
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Sory Zippy but i have to disagree. I personally use the TV cable to adjust my shift points and know from a hands on "track on" experience. This section is taking directly from thirdgen.org. Read the article named "Adjusting the TV Detent Cable" from my previous reply......or better yet here it is.....
Adjusting your TV detent cable:
for 1973 and later TH-350 and TH-700R4 auto trannys
By Scoob ( scoob8000@yahoo.com )
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overview:
The TV (Throttle Valve) detent cable controls line pressure, shift points, part throttle downshifts and detent downshifts. Over time this cable can come out of adjustmant and cause improper shifting, which is not only annoying but can prove to be harmful to the transmission. In this article I will explain in brief how to adjust this yourself in about 5-10 minutes.
Notes:
This picture is on a 2.8l V6, the procedure is the same for other engines, although the TV detent assembly will be in a different location, on some models such as the LG4 application, you may need to remove the air cleaner.
Difficulty:
On the usual scale this one is a 1.
Tools:
Two hands and a brain. :P
Directions:
Once the hood is open and the engine cool, locate the TV detent assembly. Push in on the metal tang (B), and slide cable assembly (D) all the way back so its flush with the mounting tab (C), and release metal tang (B). Grab ahold of throttle lever (E) and move in direction of arrow all the way to WOT, you should hear a series of clicks. Release and you're all done..
Adjusting your TV detent cable:
for 1973 and later TH-350 and TH-700R4 auto trannys
By Scoob ( scoob8000@yahoo.com )
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overview:
The TV (Throttle Valve) detent cable controls line pressure, shift points, part throttle downshifts and detent downshifts. Over time this cable can come out of adjustmant and cause improper shifting, which is not only annoying but can prove to be harmful to the transmission. In this article I will explain in brief how to adjust this yourself in about 5-10 minutes.
Notes:
This picture is on a 2.8l V6, the procedure is the same for other engines, although the TV detent assembly will be in a different location, on some models such as the LG4 application, you may need to remove the air cleaner.
Difficulty:
On the usual scale this one is a 1.
Tools:
Two hands and a brain. :P
Directions:
Once the hood is open and the engine cool, locate the TV detent assembly. Push in on the metal tang (B), and slide cable assembly (D) all the way back so its flush with the mounting tab (C), and release metal tang (B). Grab ahold of throttle lever (E) and move in direction of arrow all the way to WOT, you should hear a series of clicks. Release and you're all done..
yes that article is correct, but it shows you how to correctly set it back to factory specs, not how to adjust the shift points. I suggest you go put your's back how it is supposed to be or else your tranny will be taking a crap very soon.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 420
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From: Miami, Florida
Car: 1990 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: 700R4
can someone take a pic of their tv cable in their 5.7L for me? i dont have a clue what im doing here, and that pic really doesn't help me much... if i had a clearer picture (especially an engine like mine), and i knew where the F*CK the metal tang is they're talking about, i'd probably get this crap out of the way already, lmao
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
JESUS H CHRIST. DO NOT EVER ADJUST YOUR SHIFT POINTS USING THE TV CABLE.
Well, unless you want to fry your tranny in short order.
Bri, you should really make sure you know what you are talking about before you go around giving incorrect and VERY damaging advice like that.
Well, unless you want to fry your tranny in short order.
Bri, you should really make sure you know what you are talking about before you go around giving incorrect and VERY damaging advice like that.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, Tn
Car: 92' RS
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Over time this cable can come out of adjustmant and cause improper shifting, which is not only annoying but can prove to be harmful to the transmission.
I slid mine pretty far that way i can manually shift at any RPM above 2500rpm.
I did mention to him if he moves it to far that it will mess something up. Maybe i wasnt specific enough.
If you slide it back to far it will wait longer to shift and will go past redline before it shifts. If you slide it WAY to far back you'll "REALLY" mess up!
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 0
From: Chander, Arizona USA
Car: 2006 Silverado 1500
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: 4L60E
i build my own transmissions and have spent much time learning the workings of each individual model and that for sure is a huge don't do. the tv cable is more important for pressure than it is for shift points. always adjust shift points with governer changes, especially on a 700R4/4L60.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 144
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From: Chatsworth, Ga
Car: 1965 Chevelle SS
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
using tv cable for shift points....
Pro Built Automatics seems to agree that you should not adjust shift points with the tv cable adjustment:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=205677
I adjusted mine the way the tech article says and I like the way it shifts, but it is shifting too late at wot. Everyone mentions to adjust this with weights in the governor. Would this be hard for a fairly experienced gearhead? I'll admit I am not a guru with auto trannys, but I am can usually figure stuff out pretty quick. Where can I buy different weights? What size would I need to shift at about 5000 rpm's?
Thanks
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=205677
I adjusted mine the way the tech article says and I like the way it shifts, but it is shifting too late at wot. Everyone mentions to adjust this with weights in the governor. Would this be hard for a fairly experienced gearhead? I'll admit I am not a guru with auto trannys, but I am can usually figure stuff out pretty quick. Where can I buy different weights? What size would I need to shift at about 5000 rpm's?
Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
AFAIK there are 3 basic governors used in 700r4s.
- low rpm - stock shift ~ 4500, used in low output carb and TBI engines
- mid RPM - stock ~5-5500. Used in the TPI cars, vettes, etc
- high rpm - stock ~6k. Used in the V6 cars
I have one of each in my possession, and no i'm not selling any. The point of this post was that you can easily get somewhere in the ballpark for where you want it by starting out with one of these.
Worst case you can just use the low RPM TBI governor and manually shift at WOT.
- low rpm - stock shift ~ 4500, used in low output carb and TBI engines
- mid RPM - stock ~5-5500. Used in the TPI cars, vettes, etc
- high rpm - stock ~6k. Used in the V6 cars
I have one of each in my possession, and no i'm not selling any. The point of this post was that you can easily get somewhere in the ballpark for where you want it by starting out with one of these.
Worst case you can just use the low RPM TBI governor and manually shift at WOT.
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