Ok.. from what i understand, a roller cam cannot fit in a block made for a hydraullic block. I"m looking into getting a 400ci sbc, now.. they didn't come w/ roller cams, so.. i'm sol there. However, i have been told you can have them machined to take roller cams.

Is this true and is it expensive, or just about the same as boring a block out?

Also, what is really the difference & why can't a roller cam fit into a hydraullic cam's place?

 

You CAN put a roller cam into a block that didn't come with one. You just have to get roller lifters that have the little bars that keep them from twisting. Roller blocks have these brackets that bolt into the lifter vally to hold the roller lifters in place, that is really the only difference.

 

The roller cam fits the same as a stock cam. You have to get retrofit hydraulic roller lifters because the lifter bores are different, and also get different length pushrods.

 

how much harder is it to find that stuff, and is there any performance decrease?

Lead me to any good stuff plz?

 

Summit will have pretty much everything you need to get it all together.

 

alright, found the rollers.

how different of size pushrods would i need? or does it depend on my cam?/heads/...setup..

 

Unfortunatley, I'm not positive about the different pushrod lengths. What you might have to do is buy a pushrod lenth checker (sold in summit) and check them that way.

 

On the pushrods, the length checker is the ideal way to go, though comp cams will sell you "roller retrofit pushrods" which will be pretty close. I won't risk that, i've had my block/heads decked and running all aftermarket valvetrain.

 

going w/ a crane cam, they ahve about the same thing? gonna look on their site tomorrow morning... erm, afternoon... erm.. saturday, going paintballing all tomorrow.

 

ohya, so what you guys are saying is.. basically, get it together somewhat, and then check it out?


crappa.

 

do you need a cam retention thing too? so it doesn't walk? or will a good old cam button work?

 

Cam button will work, but if you have a stamped steel timing cover it will deflect too much. My edelbrock has an adjustable stop that threads through it that pushes against the cover where the cam button is, to prevent that from happening.

 

I did the whole process to my non-roller block. It is expencive, no doubt, but I liked it in the end. I found a CompCams "K-kit" which has almost everything! It came with the roller cam, roller lifters, correct valve springs, retainers, locks, valve stems seals, timing chain. If you have the means to buy the K-kit, the retrofit is simple and straight forward, and are about $750 for the kit. Just expect to have $1000 into just having a roller cam.

You will need to get a pushrod length checker, Like this then get new pushrod to keep your geometry correct

Also they make specific roller cam buttons, which you should pick up, Like this for $10

 

Really?

I've been building roller motors for a long time, a couple of decades before the factory sodomized the concept; never really had any trouble with them.

I personally prefer the really high-dollar Comp roller thrust bearing cam button; it's about $15.

Most hydraulic roller lifters are .400" talller than flat-tappet ones, so you typically need .400" shorter push rods. But the only way to get it right is to measure them with an adjustable push rod.

 

I used the roller cam button, like you talked about and I put a link to, with a stamped chrome timing chain cover and after a while i could see it bulging where the button was, so i went to a better timing chain cover. Get a 3 piece so you can do a cam swap without removing the timing chaing cover from the oil pan!

 

This swap is pretty common. I think with the retrofit parts youd be fine...

You paintball?

I have an 02 vert feed autococker and a nice nasty impulse for sale...wink wink

 

I had the same thing happen, now I use one of the cast aluminum ones. I know people who haven't had problems with the stamped cover, but I checked cam endplay after my friend pulled his motor, it was twice maximum specs. When I put it together it was on the tight side of minumim.

 

SweetS10V8, i just happened to notice that you're studying at UNO. is it still the same sh!thole it was? i used to live in CP 18.

 

The school is nice, but you used the right term, the town is a **** hole, I almost didnt come to the school bc of town, i was having serious 2nd thoughts. I have a serial rapist on my street apparently(1 mile long), people get shot like no big deal.

I like school, I wouldnt leave my wife alone anywhere in town.

Here is the description of my home town:

Midland, Michigan, home of the Dow Chemical Company and Dow Corning Corporation. Located 15 miles from Lake Huron and 135 miles north of Detroit, Midland is a middle-class suburban town whose inhabitants feel comfortable leaving their cars unlocked and where students love to roam during their free time.

hmmm.....from door unlocked to serial rapist and murders. Seriously in the 25 years I lived in Midland, I can remember 1 shooting!!!

Sorry to go off topic...back to the regularly scheduled programing!

 

damn...so you lock your house doors and take your keys out of the car and stuff too huh? city folk are weird, i could sit my car in an alley, by a group of kids that looked like trouble makers, leave it running with the door open, come back an hour later and it'd be in the same spot...probably out of gas with a dead battery, but in the same spot, untouched