counterweight to block clearance
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Bethlehem, Ga
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Aussie 9 Bolt
counterweight to block clearance
What's the minimum clearance I can have between the block and the crank counterweights?
Reason I'm asking is because I just got my new Scat crank home and the rear counterweight hit the side of the block where the oil filter sits. I only had to grind the block down about 1/16" to allow the crank to spin freely. I've got just over .02" of clearance between the counterweight and the block. I can't go but probably another 1/8" before I get too close to the oil pan bolt hole.
Reason I'm asking is because I just got my new Scat crank home and the rear counterweight hit the side of the block where the oil filter sits. I only had to grind the block down about 1/16" to allow the crank to spin freely. I've got just over .02" of clearance between the counterweight and the block. I can't go but probably another 1/8" before I get too close to the oil pan bolt hole.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 200
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From: Bethlehem, Ga
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Aussie 9 Bolt
I don't really have a good way to measure it right now, no feeler gauges in my arsenal or anything. I just used a cardboard cereal box top. The crank was sliding against it, but there was no pull or anything. I measured three times and got .020, .022, and .020 again. I just used this method to get a general idea where I was at.
So anything greater than .025" and I should be okay?
So anything greater than .025" and I should be okay?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 200
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From: Bethlehem, Ga
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Aussie 9 Bolt
I found a piece of steel stock that measures .045". It slides between the weight and block just fine except at one point where it hits and slightly catches. I'll grind that down a little more and test it again.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Get a plastigage string and put it in the groove and swing the crank till it crushes it.
That will give you an accurate-ish number for about $0.50
That will give you an accurate-ish number for about $0.50
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Bethlehem, Ga
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Aussie 9 Bolt
I thought about doing that, but I figured the weight would break the plastigage rather than squish it and I wouldn't be able to get a reading.
It's cool though, I got it ground down to where I could fit two of the .045" pieces of bar in there with a little wiggle room. I've got just over .09" of clearance.
It's cool though, I got it ground down to where I could fit two of the .045" pieces of bar in there with a little wiggle room. I've got just over .09" of clearance.
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
The machine shop that built my shortblock told me to use 2 plastic wire ties together to check stroker crank clearance. Watch the big end of the rod & cam lobe clearance as well. The shop reccomended .050" clearance on the rotating assembly.
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