At www.gmpartsdirect.com, in the section about the LT4 HOT Cam, it reads:

"The LT4 camshaft P/N 24502586 was designed to be used in a number of different engines. Therefore, the following change may need to be made to allow for correct assembly of the engine: For LT1 and L98 engines 1995 and before, the dowel pin in the end of the camshaft must be pushed in so extension from end of cam is .30+/-.01", the same as the production part. For 1996 LT1 and LT4 engines, the dowel pin is in the correct position, extending .620" from the end of the camshaft. This camshaft has a fuel pump lobe."

Waht in the world does that mean?? Do I have to do machine work or somthing to do the cam to get it to fit in my L98 or what??

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Next on the list: LT4 HOT Cam

 

The dowel pin that they're talking about is the little notch on the end that you use to line up the cam sprocket. All you'll have to do is pound it in a little bit and it should fit. But you'll have to be sure to measure it accurately and not push it in too far. No machine work necessary.

 

The LT1 and LT4 engines, as they come in the cars they are installed in, have an ignition system that runs directly off the cam gear. The extra pin length is for aligning the "OptiSpark" module to the cam. Since you're probably putting this cam into a motor that doesn't have OptiSpark, the pin will stick out so far that it will hit the timing cover (a bad thing) so you need to bonk it in a little bit to get it out of the way.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

Just push the pin in until it sticks out .30 inch from the end of the cam. (the pin that goes into the cam sprocket.) Use a vise to force it in but be careful to not nick the bearing or lobe surface.

 

Umm, if you're installing a camshaft like this in a SBC engine (standard SBC) why don't you just install the cam sprocket then tap the dowel in flush with the outer face of the sprocket?

I've done two of these in LT1s and it really isn't that difficult to move the pin deeper. I haven't used the LT4 "Hot" cam as a replacement, though. It just wasn't quite "Hot" enough for me. Comp Cams replacements for LT1/4 engines are set up the same.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Thanks a lot guys, I was getting really worried there for a sec.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Next on the list: LT4 HOT Cam

 

Vader, You keep making things too darned easy!!!!!

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

I bought a used LT4 HOT cam and the dowel pin was frozen solid in it. I had to cut the end off it with a bandsaw.

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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
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