I have about four problems right now. There are more, but I know "how" to fix them.

1) I have gas leaking out where the gas cap is. HOW IN THE WORLD DO YOU FIX THAT?!?!?!?!

2) My car is getting harder to start, it takes three turns of the key before it starts. I just put in an MSD last month. What is dying, do you suppose it might be the flywheel's teeth are ground down?

3) Driving home my CHECK ENGINE Light blinked. When I got home, I tried to jump the plug to show the code, but it didn't show any codes, the light didn't even come on.

4) I am trying to put a 1992 GM radio into my 1985 Z. I finally got the wiring harness for it, but realized that the antenna plug is too big for the hole.

I went to all of the places that I can think of and they couldn't help. I did find out that the hole is for a "GM Mini Plug" not a universal.

Does anybody know if anybody would carry some sort of an adapter?

Thanks,
Jesse

 

When #3 happened, was your defroster on? I heard that if the diode goes bad across the terminals for the a/c compressor, it can cause a "spike" to get shot into the car's electrical system, and make the check engine light blink.

As for #4, I've seen that adapter before. It was a 8" cable with the appropriate connectors at each end. Try asking the guys at Crutchfield for one. The website's http://www.crutchfield.com , and they've got a phone # listed on there.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

1> Is it a bad seal on the cap? if so replace it.
2> Carb, TBI, or TPI. Carb-adjust the choke, TBI-???, TPI-try adjusting the IAC.
3> Was probably an intermediate code, when minor things happen, the computer wont store these codes. You say the light didn't come on though. Check when you first turn the key without starting the car, the light should come on, if not, check the bulb.
4> You can buy these adapaters at Fry's Electronics, Ultimate Universe, Best Buy, or what ever is in New Mexico. These are the stores in Arizona. Mine cost me about $11 if I remember correctly.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI

 

#1) It's a new cap...I have no clue.
#2) TPI engine. I look at the IAC tommorow.
#3) I'll try again tommorow. *edit* nope the defroster was not on.
#4) I am going to Colorado Springs on Friday, I'll check there. They should know what they are talking about.

OOOHHH A NEW ONE. I am sooo excited.

#5) I am missing a belt. It looks like the emmissions motor. Is that necessary? I don't have to worry about emmissions.

Thanks,
Jesse

[This message has been edited by oldblueZ (edited January 03, 2001).]

 

5> smog pump belt. No harm in leaving it off unless you need to go to the sniffer test.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI

 

I have that adapter sitting On the Desk Infront Of me, came with My stereo



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

If you're gonna axe the AIR pump belt, go ahead and remove the whole pump. This has 2 benefits. 1, it's heavy. 2, they tend to seize up when left non-spinning in an engine compartment. By contrast, i still have eth AIR pump from my 85 in my garage, and it still spins fine. You don't want to need your AIR pump in the future, only to find it stuck.
Hell, while you're at it, remove all teh associated bracketry, and that gay *** diverter valve too. This makes the passeneger side of teh engine look a million times cleaner, and is equally easier to work on.
...ed
ps, in good tune you don't need the AIR pump on anyway. My 83 grand prix with LG4 passed a dyno style E-check with no AIR system.

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 A4 2.73 - stock, soon to be sleeper

 

As for the fuel cap thats leaking either because the fuel tank pressure relief valve is stuck closed or the charcoal canister is clogged. I'd start with the relief valve its that plastic thing about 1 inch tall and 1-2 inches round. Its by the rear axle attached to a rubber hose on one end and to a bracket on the other end. The same bracket that attaches to the rear brake line hose. If that doesn't fix it try swapping fuel canisters. Its that big black cyclinder in the engine compartment.