Dipstick pulls out right?
Dipstick pulls out right?
i've read on this board that the dipstick tube is just supposed to pull out. (with some wiggling of course.) Well, i spent about an hour yestereday trying to get it out w/out damaging it. After that hour i now have an oval shaped dipstick that is still in my car!
I don't know if i'm doing somthing wrong, but heres what i'm doing. I'm pulling up on the dipstick tube w/visegrips i started by hand, but it wouldn't budge. After about45 min of getting nothing by pulling i went under my car and tried, still nothing. so now i'm wondering is it safe to put WD40 around the base area of the dipstick to get it out? also does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out?
THANKS,
-abe
EDIT: i don't know how many bolts are holding it in there, but i took the ones out from the bracket that is near the manafold.. if there is any others please do let me know!
[This message has been edited by Abe91Z28 (edited January 11, 2001).]
I don't know if i'm doing somthing wrong, but heres what i'm doing. I'm pulling up on the dipstick tube w/visegrips i started by hand, but it wouldn't budge. After about45 min of getting nothing by pulling i went under my car and tried, still nothing. so now i'm wondering is it safe to put WD40 around the base area of the dipstick to get it out? also does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out?
THANKS,
-abe
EDIT: i don't know how many bolts are holding it in there, but i took the ones out from the bracket that is near the manafold.. if there is any others please do let me know!
[This message has been edited by Abe91Z28 (edited January 11, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You mean the dipstick tube? I think there's a few bolts holding it on to the engine...
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Actually it should just come out, with some Force.
I trust that the Engine is still in the car ?
Im not sure about the one peice rear main blocks, but on the two peice it comes right out if you yank on it hard enough
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
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I trust that the Engine is still in the car ?
Im not sure about the one peice rear main blocks, but on the two peice it comes right out if you yank on it hard enough

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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Livin' the Stereotype
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
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Transmission: 5
Right... there's a little tab that goes under the 3rd manifold bolt back. Has a 9/16" nut holding it to the manifold stud.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
yea i yanked that bold (i had to remove some AIR tubes, but they aren't being reused so) i thought the bolt was a 14mm? but, yea once i took that out i saw the bracket that was welded to the dipstick come off the manafold. So, now its just a matter of pulling it out?
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It is a real pain to take it out. When I installed my headers it actually was the hardest part of the whole install. What I did was bend it towards the engine as far as possible and then get you hand as close to the bottom of the tube as you can and pull straight towards you. If it doesn't move you are going to have to drop the starter and guide it out from the bottom as a buddy pulls it from the top. Also try shooting the the base of it with penetraiting oil but don't spray it insde the tube since it won't help any, mine had some rust beginning to form on it so maybe it rusted to the block.
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1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!
SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, 3.8L Turbo V6 200* fan switch, MSD GM coil, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 oil, and more to come...
Best ET not corrected- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.
Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len
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1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!
SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, 3.8L Turbo V6 200* fan switch, MSD GM coil, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 oil, and more to come...
Best ET not corrected- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.

Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len
If you've removed the nut holding it onto your exhaust manifold stud, the only other thing holding it is just plain old stubborness. I've found that if you can get it to where you can twist it back and forth, you can usually work it upwards gradually as you twist it. Just make sure the tube is actually twisting in the hole, not twisting into two pieces. I've broke them off in the block before, then you really have a fiascal on your hands!
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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
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