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what deep stump/trap door oil pan options do we have?

Old Jan 9, 2004 | 10:58 AM
  #1  
MrDude_1's Avatar
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
what deep stump/trap door oil pan options do we have?

what deep stump/trap door oil pan options do we have?

one that will clear hooker and headman longtubes..... and what ones clear stock style shorty headers?

before i go baffle another stock pan, i was just thinking, itd just be easier and probly better to get a higher capacity non stock pan with some nice trap doors or something.....

what works with our cars?
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 09:22 AM
  #2  
MrDude_1's Avatar
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
so noone is using a non stock pan? O_o i kinda find that hard to believe.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 11:09 AM
  #3  
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From: New Mexico
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
I don't have this one but there is a moroso one in summit that holds 6 quarts, has a baffle and a deep sump. Part #MOR-19510 and #MOR-20182 (for one piece seal blocks)
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 11:14 AM
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RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You don't need trap doors and all that crap for a motor that goes sustained straight-line high speeds.

Simpler is better. There's nothing wrong with stock pans for most applications.

If your block is a LH dipstick type, use the old GM Z28 pan (6-quart system) with a good quality windage tray.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 11:46 AM
  #5  
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From: New Mexico
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
Give the guy a break, maybe he is hard-core autocrossing at 1 G.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:32 PM
  #6  
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
I am running the Moroso 20182 6 qt pan & Hooker longtubes, no clearance issues here. It has a relatively simple baffle & trap door setup. It does require the use of Moroso's oil pump pick up.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:45 PM
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by RB83L69
You don't need trap doors and all that crap for a motor that goes sustained straight-line high speeds.

Simpler is better. There's nothing wrong with stock pans for most applications.
i agree 100%.

too bad im putting big brakes on the car and plan on autocrossing... theres nothign wrong with a lil insurance either.

Originally posted by GASGZLR
Give the guy a break, maybe he is hard-core autocrossing at 1 G.
i wish.... a great goal of mine is to see sustained 1G on the Gtech... but i doubt it'll happen






my main reasons for this is that im slightly insane. ( )
i like cloverleafs and other on/off ramps, i like autoX and i brake HARD from high speeds at times....
in all thoes situations with the unbaffled stock 400 pan thats on this motor, ive allways seen pressure drop.. in the case of hard braking, i see ALOT of drop.. ive watched it goto almost zero before...

im looking to up the capacity of the pan to 6 quarts or so (plus the oil cooler) and keep the oil near the pickup under braking and high cornering (both directions)

since the 400 is out and going into the 91 soon, nows a good time to be shopping... i just need to know what will clear longtubes.... i have a feeling that thoes "wings" on most pans wont clear.


Ricktpi:
how close is the pan to the headers? i dont know exactly whats diffrent about the heddmans compared to the hookers, you know how close it is?
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:47 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
long duration high speed runs like silver state
The things needed for this type of activity mostly involve cooling and lubrication. It's like NASCAR, where they do things like run a pump off of the pinion yoke to force the rear end fluid through a cooler; all sorts of things like that get stressed in ways you don't anticipate, if you're not used to it.

In a motor set up that way, I'd skip the trap doors and baffling, in favor of a good crank-stripper type of tray; and an external oil-to-air cooler. I'd also be looking for ways to restrict the oil delivery to the top of the motor, since the place it gets heated up the most is when it's sitting on top of the exhaust ports. Otherwise, at sustained high RPMs, all your oil will end up sitting in the valve covers at sustained high RPMs, getting baked and starving the bearings all at the same time.

Altogether a different set of concerns from drag racing or even autocross.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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MrDude_1's Avatar
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by RB83L69
The things needed for this type of activity mostly involve cooling and lubrication. It's like NASCAR, where they do things like run a pump off of the pinion yoke to force the rear end fluid through a cooler; all sorts of things like that get stressed in ways you don't anticipate, if you're not used to it.

In a motor set up that way, I'd skip the trap doors and baffling, in favor of a good crank-stripper type of tray; and an external oil-to-air cooler. I'd also be looking for ways to restrict the oil delivery to the top of the motor, since the place it gets heated up the most is when it's sitting on top of the exhaust ports. Otherwise, at sustained high RPMs, all your oil will end up sitting in the valve covers at sustained high RPMs, getting baked and starving the bearings all at the same time.

Altogether a different set of concerns from drag racing or even autocross.
i agree with you entirely on this, i dont need the trap doors and baffling for silver state.... its just that this car doesnt ONLY do that, it has to survive doing that, but also survive my general abuse.. my car will never be the ideal silver state car.. its a vert for starters lol.. i dont expect it to be the ideal drag racer.. or a excelent autoX machine... its just a toy, i mostly want it to not suck at them and stay together...

im running a huge oil to air oil cooler already... when i swap to longtubes, im going to swap from a sandwich style adapter to a remote mount filter one... plan is to run hose from the adapter to the filter then to the oil cooler and back to the motor.... increasing capacity and cooling it... i just hope the adapter has a bypass in it... thats a long way for oil to flow before it gets to the motor.. heh..
the reason for the change is mostly because longtubes and the oilcooler dont fit (im told)

im also going to try to make my first crank scraper... ive never made one before, but it doesnt seem to be too hard.....

to help keep oil out of the heads, im going to remove all flash and smooth the casting along the oil holes for drainback...

hopefully with the pan, oilcooler and scraper, all my oil control bases are covered

when i goto silver state, i want to run a vac pump too for PCV reasons, but i need to see how my blower effects my belt setup before i decide if i can run one or not.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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I'm using a Canton Racing #15-246 w/ SLPs. Fits perfect.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 05:13 PM
  #11  
subsonic9's Avatar
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From: So. Illinois
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: WC T5
I have ran the silver state and could go stock on the oil pan. I have a engine oil cooler and soon will have a tranny cooler for my T5. When in the unlimited class you will see the $$$$ float away. Seem that tires are the problem lately.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:58 PM
  #12  
DTL504's Avatar
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
This is what I use: Milodon Street/Strip Oil Pans Part# MIL-30900 and Milodon Diamond Stripper Windage Tray MIL-32250.
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