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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 03:14 PM
  #1  
N8MAN1068's Avatar
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
Can't find torque specs:

I tried seaching but I can't find the torque specs for:

Bolting on 113 heads to 305. Since they are aluminum, what are should I torque them down to?

Headers to the 113 heads: how much should I torque these?

And last, intake manifold to 113 heads....


Thanks
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 03:32 PM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
youo ught to buy a manual and not trust some sumbass on the net.
heads 65 ft/lbs
headers 30 ft/lbs
intake 30 ft/lbs

might not exactily right but pretty damn close
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 03:45 PM
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
Originally posted by ede
youo ught to buy a manual and not trust some sumbass on the net.
the thought did cross my mind....but i live out in bfe and whenever i drive past a parts store, i don't think about it.
making a sticky note for the sun visor to pick up a chiltons.
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 06:13 PM
  #4  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ede
youo ught to buy a manual and not trust some sumbass on the net.
Isn't that what almost everyone who visits this board asking for advice doing EDE? Trusting that is!!!!!!!!!
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 09:34 PM
  #5  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I like the haynes for torque specs. they are all at the beginning of the chapter. Just my personal preference, though. But thats about all its good for, well that and good ilustrations on doing the brakes.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 04:52 AM
  #6  
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ede
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trickster you're right that's what everyone here is doing and it usually works. like i ratteld off a couple of numbers that may or may not be correct for the specs he needs. somethings i just think you shouldn't have to ask.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 12:14 PM
  #7  
N8MAN1068's Avatar
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
Originally posted by ede
trickster you're right that's what everyone here is doing and it usually works. like i ratteld off a couple of numbers that may or may not be correct for the specs he needs. somethings i just think you shouldn't have to ask.
maybe it's just me, but thats rather *******ish, especially from a moderator.
If you don't know, just say so, or don't respond.
People come to this site because they know it is THE place for 3rd gen information, and are also warned away by other sites because of this type of stuff.
Sure, everyone needs a manual, but for someone like me who lives far from any walmart or autoparts store, and has to make a special event to drive into town, this is the 1st place to come to do to a search on something I need to find out, and if I can't find what I need, I ask, trusting someone else will know the answer so I can carry on instead of waiting for a day to go into town.
Thanks, but I think I'll just have amazon.com overnight me a manual.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 12:56 PM
  #8  
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ede
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From: Jackson County
it's just you
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 12:56 PM
  #9  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
N8MAN1068,

Before you go ordering the manual from AMAZON, here is something that you might want to consider first. Most of these manuals are wirtten with the standard heads in mind and not the specialty aluminum heads in mind. It will give you those torque values only. I personnally don't know if there is any difference in the values, but there could be. What you could do is contact the manufacturers of the heads and ask them what the specific values are. There also should have been some torgue values included with the heads for use on the specific applications.
If you want just the standard head torque values, I have the GM service manual and can give you the torque values they have listed.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 01:14 PM
  #10  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Actually EDE,

It is not just him and this will probably either start a flame war, get this post locked or me banned. Your response to him in your first post was uncalled for and not very professional, your second response to him was even less so. If you don't know the answer, either don't respond to it or at least try to point him in the general direction of what he needs. If you can not do this, then you should step down as a moderator.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #11  
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ede
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i think you're both confused answering questions on the boards has nothing to do with being a moderator. when a moderator answers a question, post, or replys in anyway they're just like everyone else. the moderating goes on behind the scenes so to speak.
actually i don't see a problem with saying someone should buy a manual or be careful of the info they get on line. thing to do if you think there is a problem is write the admins and see if you can resolve it.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #12  
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Trickster
Actually EDE,

It is not just him blah blah blah blah
OK, then it's just the overly sensitive whiner constituency.

Trickster hasn't even been registered for a year, so he hasn't had time to get tired of reading the dull questions like this one...yet.

Check back w/ us in a year or so, and see if you're still eager to type up your manual for everyone who doesn't feel like buying one.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 03:16 PM
  #13  
N8MAN1068's Avatar
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
Hey may not be a member for more than a year, but I have.
Even if I did have a helms/chiltons, it wouldn't help much since these are aluminum heads, not iron. They wouldn't be torqued the same. Maybe I can find a correct/valid answer in some vette forum.

I help out where I can. In other car forums that have a 'open' rooms, I am always called on to answer pc/networking questions. I spend alot of my free time helping others with their issues, that aren't car related. I guess thats just my way of giving back.

Having a 'moderator' title under your name should mean you uphold higher standards than regular members. I could be wrong. Probably am, but that would explain a few things.

Anyways...time to search for some vette forums.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 03:47 PM
  #14  
Biochem's Avatar
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From: This spot right here --->*
Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
If you don't like the answers you get from your post... perhaps you'd like the answers you read when you search for what others have said about this...
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 04:56 PM
  #15  
N8MAN1068's Avatar
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
as i stated at the beginning of the post, if i could've found them by searching, i wouldn't have asked.


but if you can find them searching, please clue me in on what words you searched under.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 04:59 PM
  #16  
kevinc's Avatar
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by N8MAN1068
Hey may not be a member for more than a year, but I have.
Even if I did have a helms/chiltons, it wouldn't help much since these are aluminum heads, not iron. They wouldn't be torqued the same. Maybe I can find a correct/valid answer in some vette forum.

Having a 'moderator' title under your name should mean you uphold higher standards than regular members. I could be wrong. Probably am, but that would explain a few things.
For a solid data point set on aluminum heads, www.airflowresearch.com has torque specs for their SBC heads. You can also get data from ARP which is applicable if you're using ARP bolts and their moly assembly lube...which you should be.

Good luck w/ the Vette forums, if you're looking for wash 'n wax data you'll be in hog heaven.

As for the "higher standards" for moderators, I agree...moderators should flame much better than us regular users.

-Kevin
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 05:38 PM
  #17  
N8MAN1068's Avatar
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From: fredericksburg, va
Car: 85 ta ws6 KITT
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: th350
found the info.
70lbs. for headbolts
15-22lbs for spark plugs
close enough i imagine
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:21 PM
  #18  
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From: Florida
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Its the bolt and material your torquing too, not the hole its going thru, the torque is the same for the iron and aluminuim heads, since they are the same bolt going thru each to a iron block, 65 to 70 lbs and make sure you use some sort of sealant on the head bolts...ede gave you the answers, everybody else knows it all just to bitch about something, but never did give an answer
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #19  
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Aron is right. The substrate and fastner determine the torque, unless the item being fastened is redesigned with more deflection (not flat) so that a different ultimate tension is required to hold the item correctly to the substrate. I doubt that most aftermarket heads are intnetionally milled with any kind of crown.

And ede is right. N8MAN is right, too. Of course, kev is right, and Bio is correct as well. Stekman and TRICKSTER!!!!!!!!! are also right. Everyone has a point. I agree that if I were assembling something different, I would be very wary of what someone said in a BBS forum as being "gospel" They're probably not going to help repair/replace and damaged components if I take their advice.

Since everyone is right, what's the problem?
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