ALright guys, i took everyones advice and read a few books on engines, rebuilding them, and making more power. I gotta say all of you were right, it is much much much more work that i'd ever thouhg. I a man of my word and i'll tell you guys i'm sorry for even arguing. SO now that thats off my chest,

I have decided that to buya junk engine and then rebuild it would be too time consuing and costly. Not to mention i have only 1/3 of the tools needed. Therefore, i am gonan buy me a rebuilt 350 to stroke to a 383.

Roadmaster Engine Corporation has long block 350s fully rebuilt for very good prices,
Regular warentee-
$689.40
$350 core

Premium warentee- 12 month unlimited mile warentee
$881.30
$350 core

I think these are very nice prices and they are warented very nicely. My question has anyone bought an engine from any of these online corporations? If so, how did it go?

I think one of these engines will do me some good, i will get the fully rebuilt part of that done, get it shipped the instlal my 383 stroker kit. Prolly have to get my buddy to do that one though. I am illequiped for the job.

Any suggestions here? Should i do the online buy engine? All i need is it to be ready for me to install the 383 kit. Bored, honed, all plugs instlaled and stuff. Bearging to be installed, Everything. For me to do that one my self buying all the tools needed will cost just as much as paying someone todo it.


please post your $0.02,

Shane

 

I re-rebuilt an engine once... Took apart an engine that was a rebuild, and put it back together. The reason I did it was cause it sat for so long collecting dust that I didn't want to run it til it was cleaned.
To order a fresh longblock, take it apart and reassemble it so you can put in a stroker kit is a bad business strategy. You're shooting yourself in the foot in ways that are too numerous to list.
Try calling the shops that offer the longblocks that you mentioned and asking them if they can build a stroker to your specs.
Or buy a Goodwrench (or GMPP?) 383.
In the long run it's a much better plan.
Unless you can get your mechanic to accept the 350 rotating assy out of the longblock in exchange for labor....
But really there are many better options.

 

If you want a stroker buy one, If you want a 350 buy a 350. It's simple really, theres no point in buying a engine just to tear it apart and make somthing else. Those prices sound ok but Ive never dealed with a net source so cant comment of good or bad.

 

well around here i can get a junkyard 350 for $300(w/ heads). Then a rebuild kit for $210, then my 383 stroker for $600, then machining(maybe) $200, then rebuild for the heads $??, all kinds of stuff.

I'm not really up for rebuilding my own engine. I seriously dont trust myself doing it.

I could goto a place i keep an eye on Larry performance-
http://www.larrysperformance.com/
They have cheap prices that would blow your mind. A completely rebuild and ready to go 4 bolt main 350(short block), $349.00.

For some reason in there client rides section it puts thirdgen.org on there. I'd really like to find the person who bought one from them. Obviously they liked what they got.

I'm just stuck in a world of confusion. Right now my car is fast, well an ok fast. I'd like it to be much more though. I wanna be able to ride with 4th gens down on the track man.

I'm thinking 350HP down at the wheels is very acceptable because that'll make the car faster then a 4th gen. To do this i'll need my 383 with my lt1 intake conversion, and my LT4 hot cam. That'll blow the competition away though. That might just be too much horsepower, i got estimates of 450HP to the wheels with that combo. I like the sound of saying, yeah i got a 6.4li in her right now. 383 is 6.4li, correct? Too much horsepower though and i wont be able to use streetable tires. I might just get the 383, highly port the sh*t out of the TPI and work there for a while. I dunno though.


Shane

 

wait a sec, that larrys block is not a short block, it is simply a fully machinged and ready to go block.That is what i need. It has all bearings installed and everything, just no crank and stuff.

SO that would be what i need correct to do whatever i need to it, correct?



Shane

 

If you start out with a 350 motor, to turn it into a 383, you will have to :

remove the heads
remove the crank
remove the rod & piston asemblies
disassemble the pistons from the rods
throw away the crank and the pistons
replace the crank
replace the pistons
grind the block
reassemble the new pistons to the rods
reassmeble the piston & rod assemblies into the block
reinstall the new crank
reinstall the heads
and a handful of misc other small stuff like the oil pump, cam, lifters, push rods, etc.

Your warranty got voided at step 1. Whatever money you spent out of the total cost for warranty, you just threw away.

Since you can't use the crank and pistons that come in a rebuilt 350, and the heads will be junk (whatever the cheapest, most common thing they can slap on there is), and the cam will be something you don't really want (probably a copy of a 929), that's more money you threw away.

In other words, there's basically no point whatsoever in doing that.

If you really want a 383, buy a 383. If you really want a performance motor, don't buy the cheapest thing you can find from the cheapest source you come across, because it won't be a performance motor, it will be .... the cheapest thing that runs. Just enough to push a vehicle around, that's it.

The prices are far too cheap. You're going to get a re-ground stock crank, 8 random stock rods of whatever random weights, chinesium pistons, etc. etc. ... the cheapest of everything. Not high-performance anything. In other words, even if you wanted a 350, it's the wrong platform to start out with for a performance engine.

 

Wheelermotorsports.com has 383 shortblocks with forged pistons for $1399. I am buying one.

 

well if i buy that one cleaned up 350, all i would need to rebuild, there would be no need for disasembly. I can strait up install the 383 easily. I'll just need my buddy to bring over his ring compressor and such to do it, but it can be done. That way it wont be a cheap job. I dont really care about what you call cheap cause if your performance standards are so hgih that a decently rebuilt engine wont do then i dunno. You gotta be rich. I dont have money to buya $3000 383 prebuilt. If you do, why not buy me one. But for us poor high school kids(class of '05 represent) we dont got lots of money. I dont have a problem with saving my money for while but compared to $1500 for my 383, to your $3000 383 i cant justify double the time.

The hardest things about the rebuild were cleaning the block off, expensive to get it hot tanked, and dissassemly. I'm just gonna get a bare block with everything ready for the crank/cam/everything else to be installed. theres no way to f*ck up cleaning a 350, well they could mess around with the boring but besides this, the engine will be perfectly what i need. PLease inform me if i'm wrong.



Shane

 

If you take a 350 block and put a 3.75 stroker rotating assy into it, the first thing you'll discover is that the crank won't even rotate because it hits the block in about 20 different places.
You'll be opening up a can of worms that will have you and your mechanic friend tearing your hair out. And you'll probably end up being enemies with the guy when all is said and done.
Seriously, there is much more to turning a 350 into a 383 than an inexperienced mechanic is prepared for. You have to take the crank in and out numerous times, and mount a rod & piston on each of the throws and grind the block where it makes contact. Then after that you have to grind the rods where they hit the cam.
Does your friend know that that's going to be part of the deal?

 

he said he'd done it before and that it'd be a snap, so i'm pretty sure. I'm thinking about the 383 though. I prolly should justbe ahppy with my 350 fro a little while then go up the the 383 once i get the desire. I thnk i might just take the 350 and put an LT1 intake manifold on it, or just go strait LT1 like i used to want to, then do that think 383 and get a guarenteed 450HP. Its all gonna be a lot of thinking though. The LT1 swap it very easy so i might just goto it, and once i'm bored with it goto the new corevette LS2 or LS7. That might just be the plan. I dunno.



Shane

 

how the hell can u gaurantee 450 hp without head flow numbers, cam specs, compressions ratio, and all the other variables? its laughable really. If your buying a 350 to turn into a 383 you could run the 350 for a while but then you'd havta pull it out dissassemble it have the block machined for clearances, have the new rotating assembly balanced, then install it, then look for some new heads and a cam that would work well with a 383, stock heads simply will not cut it, they will severely limit any proformance potential as will a stock cam. Also your talking about 3,000 being a lot for a 383 shortblock but you have enough money for LS7? no need to get cocky with RB because he was being truthful... proformance isnt cheap, cheap proformance doesnt last. Also what type of tranny do you plan on putting behind this? a stock tranny will not take much power before it blows apart.. nor will the stock rear... or the body for that matter.. do you already have a built tranny, rear end, and have subframe connectors on the car at least?

 

I can't imagine anyone who's built a 383 at home calling the job a snap. Even with a dedicated production shop, it's labor intensive.
Getting a cleaned up 350 block and having someone put a 350 rotating assy into it and then putting some affordable heads on top of that and a carb seems like a very reasonable approach and within your abilities.
Carbs are a lot more forgiving than EFI.
Even with a mildly built 350 you'll have your hands full with drivetrain, suspension upgrades.
Give yourself a break, put a carbed 350 in there and have fun. It will be a better experience overall for you.
Get that 450 HP number out of your head unless you have the $$ to pay someone for an expensive setup.
300 hp would make your present motor seem puny.

 

I WILL NEVER GO CARB. I hate carb more than anything. FI is the way to go and i'll stick with it. I think i'll just go with a LT1 witha lt4 hot cam in it for a while then do something new. But with the lt4 i'll need new valve springs and the like. The LT1 will last me a while until i do it into a 383. That'll be a fun project.

So the conclusion is that internet engines suck, and a LT1 engine from a junkyard guarenteed for 1 year, unlimited mile warentee for $650 is the best way to go.



Shane

 

That's a good idea too, if you can afford it.
You'll just have to get into prom tuning or buy a good chip to make it work right.

 

And for how long will you keep that decision?

 

No offense though. You've thrown some good ideas around. Well, they have certainly improved since your previous posts. Just don't rush it. Do more research before coming to a decision on what combo to go with.

 

you know a junkyard that guarantees engines a whole year/unlimited mileage? that sounds like the way to go with that kinda guarantee.. never heard of anybody selling used parts with that kinda guarantee thats nuts

 

wanna call them?

Ace Pick Your Part
9152 North Main Street, Jacksonville, FL 32218
(904) 765-1026

Call them and ask them for prices, $650 with 1 year unlimited mile warentee on the engine.

I think i can afford the LT1 with the got cam, the hot cam and everything needed to get max lift is a $500 kit.

I think i'm gonna stick with the LT1 i seem to always fall back on the LT1 idea so thats it, sticking with it this time. I used to want the LS1 but... too complicated. I'll leave that swap for the new LS2/LS7 corvette engines.

As for prom tuning i think i can manage to get somebody to hook me up with the stuff needed or someone who will do it for free. Wont be too hard.

But i now have new restect for people who cana actually rebuild them engines, takes a lot of freggin patients. The slightest mistake can spell disaster for the entire engine. The guy said if you have one little grain of dirt on the bearings you could ruin them. Thats why i cant trust myself todo it. I'm too lazy to just take the whole thing apart again once i see something wrong. It used to seem easy, but after reading Hot to rebuild you small block chevy by david lizard, i dont think i can do it. Actually i cant do it currently, no tools for it. You need ring compressors, all kinds of stuff. I just need to find a book on tranny rebuilds now.


Shane

 

man this thread died real quick, where'd everyone go?

 

We got sick of being argued with.

There's alot of people here who know what they're doing, and can help you avoid the pitfalls we all fell into when we first started enjoying this hobby. We're trying to help you stop desperately trying to jump into the same ones we did, that you don't even know yet exist, but you'll end up in just the same. We're tired of arguing about stuff that you're evidently just determined to learn the hard way.

But if you don't want to take advantage of what's being offered to you, that's OK too, it's your life. I don't know what you expect to get when you post questions here. We're not all a bunch of liars that are going to just echo whatever notions you've already dreamed up, just to make you happy. Most of us are going to make an effort to tell you relaity and the truth. Unfortunately the truth isn't what you want to hear. So eventually the people who know what they're talking about are just going to ignore your questions because whatever mistakes you make, don't hurt us.

So if you want real answers from people who have a clue, and not a bunch of monkey-spank from people who haven't ever built a motor or otherwise accomplished anything with their cars in their life, you need to adjust your attitude a little bit.

 

Everyone with common sence already gave thier imput.

Its just not worth the hassle going the way you want to.
If you really want a 383 buy a 350 block, most machine shops sell them around $150 just for the block. Next step call Summit or Jegs and order a kit either #356-B13004E 2PRM or #356-B13005L 1PRM, Either way your around $1500 for the kit both come with flexplates also assuming you have an auto. Call the machine shop you got the engine from and gety a price on machining the block and rebuilding either your stock heads or another set. Next your left with oil pump & pickup tube and a complete gasket set, most machine shops can get a cheap set for under $40. Cam selection is up to you TPI sucks unless you invest another $2000+ into a nice setup and guy with the same engine with a punk 600CFM carb will walk all over you.

 

alright i understand what you all were saying, and that is to not take the cheap way out. Therefor i gave up the idea to go cheap and do the LT1. How is that not doing the right thing. Is there something wrong with the LT1 now? A nice ported LT1 with a Hot Cam can give me some impressive numbers. Numbers i wont be ashamed of.

I dont se why you guys get on my case so much. I do understand that a cheap thing is not always a good thing. I'm just gonna skip the whole first generation small block chevy and goto a second. That way i'll be alittle more advanced. That is why i changed my mind.

I dont think anyone can complain with the LT1 swap, correct? Once i get the LT1, i'll run it as far as i possibly can, maybe around 150k miles, then get a machin shop to rebuild it and then turn it into a 383 engine as well. That way i wont have anything to be getting mad at. I do knowa local junk yard that charges close to $1500 for a fully rebuilt 305/350. I think since they'll be replacing the 350 crank and rods with the 383 they can charge close to $1800 for the entire rebuild and everything.

Man, power does come at a price doesn't it. Hmmmm....... I sure hope i get to keep this uphostry job, i am starting tuesday for a 1 week trial period, get paid $9.50 an hour so just might work for me. They saw my fur headliner!!!!!

If i do that then, i'll get the setup i want, but i think i'm gonna try to get what need sto be done, the big stuff first to see what satifies me. The LT1 w/ hot cam should be perfectly fine for a couple years. Then i'll have enough for it to be rebuilt the right way. Sound like a good plan of what?


Shane

 

Man i love the power you get from carb, but i just dont like its reliability, and everything. I like the look of pro fuel injected engines, i love the masculant intake manifold of PFI, They look awesome.

If they man carbs that could look like that then yeah i'd do it ina heartbeat, but if they cant then thats a no!

I prolly should just get my LT1 and be happy. Thankls guys, but try not to get pissed at me. I read books, i read three of them in close to a week. I had rebuilding your samll block chevy, chevy performance, and Fuel Injected Engines. I tried to help myself but guess that building an engine myself still isn't a good idea. Maybe i should just stick with the LT1 since its a reliable system, and just make it even more powerful with the 383, and something like a supercharger that is clutched. The purpose of the clutch is so that when i hit the button its like hitting NOS except you never run out. I dont know if people ever though about that idea. You can run more PSI becuase its only for short busts, and that means more power gains. My friend the mechanic though it soundly like a "nifty" idea so i dunno if thats a, it'll never happen kid, or i'd like to see that.


Shane