My son has a 89 Camero Iroc-z 5.7 350. A few weeks ago the car overheated and blew a head gasket. His father did the job of replacing the head gasket. He also replaced the sparks plugs and wires since the car needed a minor tune up. Now that we have the car back together, when we try starting it up, it will crank but not start. We got some starter fluid to try starting the car and it tried to catch but could not. We replaced the ignition coil. Still did not start. Tested the pickup coil leads and read a steady value of 1217 ohms. Running out of things to check. Looking to see if anyone has any ideas. The car ran great before. The only problem we were having was the overheating. Been working on this for the past two weekends and just don't know what else to do. Hate putting it in the shop and find out it was something minor his dad overlooked.

 

Please extend our welcome to your son's father.

You might also relay a question regarding whether there is spark present at the plugs. If so, his father can presume that the ignition system is functioning and there is another problem causing the no-start. If there is no spark at the plugs, the ignition system is still suspect.

A pickup coil is supposed good at 850 ohms (cold), but is acceptable at anything between 500-1,500 ohms. Provided the reluctor and pickup coil are workng, the HEI switching module and EST system are next to analyze. The EST can be bypassed by disconnecting the tan/white wire along the RH firewall. The HEI module is difficult to test unless it is operating in circuit (or a simulated circuit), so removal and testing at any of many auto parts stores (usually a free service) is generally the easiest way to check it.

Short of that (no pun intended) the rest of the ignition system is fairly straightforward, with little remaining but the cap, rotor, coil, plugs themselves, and wiring.

If the ignition system is intact, ask your son if his father checked the fuel pressure, which should be between 37-44 PSIG within two seconds of the ignition being turned on. Fuel pressure below the minimum pressure will cause a hard= or no-start condition.

 

Are you sure you have the dist. in correctly? Could be a 180 off?

 

Yup, real easy mistake to yank the distributor and not mark its position for re-installation. I have done this on a few occasions. And i have had the same issues you reference. Cranking and cranking but no catching. Even after starter fluid. Check to make sure the dizzy is lined up properly, if you havent already done so.

 

Thanks all of you for your reply. Will relay the suggestions to his dad. Yes, he did not mark the dist before removing (he's been kicking himself about that mistake). However, I think his dad and uncle checked to make sure it was line up correctly, repeatedly checking since he did new he did not mark the dist. He replaced the plugs, wires, and rotor. He checked the fuel pressure but I don't remember it being between 37-44 PSIG. If I remember correctly is was about 28. Did not check the EST system or the switching module. After working on this for 2 weekends (by himself) he just got frustrated and quick. Thanks again and I will give him what ya'll suggested.

 

i'd suspect the timing is off. line up the mark on the dampner with #1 piston on compression and set the distributor in with the rotor poiniting to # one

 

I hope his father enjoys driving his son's car for a while, having done the work by himself.

The fuel pressure may be a bit of a problem at 28 PSI. If the firing order checks out and distributor is installed correctly, that may be your (er, his) next focus.

 

This may be a really dumb questions....so please forgive me. Can the amount of gas in the car affect the fuel pressure? I know the car has less then 1/4 of gas in the tank. Closer to the E then the quarter. Want to know if adding more gas to the tank matters.

Also when his dad tried checking to see if he could get sparks from the plugs (pull one out and place against nut ), turn ignition to on position.....no sparks was seen.

 

Archie,

The fuel pump should be able to produce normal pressure until the tank is completely empty, so except for an empty tank, fuel level will have no bearing on fuel pressure. System voltage will affect pressure, however, and if the battery is weak from numerous attempts to start the engine, the fuel system pressure may be low.

Also, the engine needs to be cranking to produce spark to the plugs, so have your son hold the spark plug wire or coil wire while you briefly crank the engine. You'll know immediately whether there is adequate spark or not. Of course, his father will mention to him that holding it safely by the insulation and about 1/4" from an engine ground would be the prudent method. He WILL mention that, won't he?

 

Vader,
We have now replaced the module, rotor, ignition coil, sparks plugs, wires and distributed cap. Tested the wires and no fire was produced. Timing is TDC. So nothing is working. Car still will only crank but not start. Any more suggestions before I just send this car to GM.

 

Ive been watching this, seeing what the intergalactic overlord has to say. Allow me to add my 2/5 of a nickel.

Is your distributor grounded? if its a coil-in-cap design, when it was re-assembled, was the ground strap put in?

 

He has a remote coil system. Probably a dumb question here, but has anyone checked the wires going from the igniton module in the distributor to the igniton coil. How about the ground wires at the back of the heads. Just a thought!!!!!!!!!

 

I had the same problem last year when I tried to fire up my TPI (now HSR)...I forgot to hook up the coil connector jumper at the back of the distributor...hooked it up, turned the key, and it fired instantly! Check ALL electrical connections near the disributor - especially if it cranks, but you have no spark. You were also in that area replacing parts, so...Check ALL connections.

 

OK, we found the firing problem. Distributor was bad. Replaced distributor and car started right up. Now a different problem. Car runs rough, like a bad miss. Recheck timing and plugs all are OK. Left the car along for a few days (needed the rest). Now the car will not start right away and when it does it won't stay running. Check the fuel pressurer and reads 28 psi. I know earlier you all said pressure should be around 37-44 psi. What could cause the pressure to be low? Remember my son's dad removed the parts down to the rail in order to replace the head gasket. Want to make sure we did not create the problem we are having now, before we assume the fuel pump needs replacing.

Thanks!!

 

Anyone reading these threads for answer to similar problem. The problem was the fuel pump was bad. Replaced the pump and problem with starting and missed was resulted.