will a hyd. roller cam fit a '76 400sbc
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Sure.
You just have to use a retro-fit roller setup. The factory spider-style won't work. Retro-fit is kind of expensive but once you've paid for it you can use it in several engines. The lifters don't wear much at all.
You just have to use a retro-fit roller setup. The factory spider-style won't work. Retro-fit is kind of expensive but once you've paid for it you can use it in several engines. The lifters don't wear much at all.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yes, he meant retro fit hydraulic rollers. You would need different length pushrods, not necissarily custom. The actual length should be determined by a pushrod length checking tool.
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
I believe the push rods are a different length than the flat tappet style, alright.
The retro-fit roller lifters have a dogbone that connects two of them together so they won't rotate in the lifter bore. The roller cam itself will fit right in the 400.
The retro-fit roller lifters have a dogbone that connects two of them together so they won't rotate in the lifter bore. The roller cam itself will fit right in the 400.
Ok I got it now...For the pushrods though, Im lookin in this catalog and it says 7.200" for std sbc with OE roller. A little bit further down it says 7.300 for std sbc with comp hyd roller. Now would that be just for using a comp cam, or is that the retrofit length?
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Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
That would be for use with comp cams factory replacement, i do so believe. Once you get a setup, the only way to truly know what length to run, is via a pushrod checking tool.
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
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Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Originally posted by comatose 88 WS6
Ok I got it now...For the pushrods though, Im lookin in this catalog and it says 7.200" for std sbc with OE roller. A little bit further down it says 7.300 for std sbc with comp hyd roller. Now would that be just for using a comp cam, or is that the retrofit length?
Ok I got it now...For the pushrods though, Im lookin in this catalog and it says 7.200" for std sbc with OE roller. A little bit further down it says 7.300 for std sbc with comp hyd roller. Now would that be just for using a comp cam, or is that the retrofit length?
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The push rods you need will depend on exactly what lifters you use.
Don't buy push rods when you buy your other parts. Buy an adjustable length one ("push rod length checking tool") such as is avalable from Comp or others; assemble the motor; and determine the optimum push rod length for your exact parts.
People have been putting rollers in 400s for decades. Since long before the factory hipped up to the notion of rollers, and then totally butchered the concept. What is noe known as the "retrofit" system is far simpler, more reliable, and more universal; and fits any block of any size from any year, without any modification or machine work whatsoever. Always has.
All you need is the "retrofit" cam and lifters, and a "cam button", which goes between the nose of the cam anf the timing cover. If you use a typical street roller, they're made out of the same material as flat-tappet cams, so you don't even need a special distributor gear. If you use a cam with a billet steel core, then you need either a special gear, or you need ot have the cam made with a casiron gear shrunk onto the steel cam core. Several of the cam mfrs supply cams made that way.
Don't buy push rods when you buy your other parts. Buy an adjustable length one ("push rod length checking tool") such as is avalable from Comp or others; assemble the motor; and determine the optimum push rod length for your exact parts.
People have been putting rollers in 400s for decades. Since long before the factory hipped up to the notion of rollers, and then totally butchered the concept. What is noe known as the "retrofit" system is far simpler, more reliable, and more universal; and fits any block of any size from any year, without any modification or machine work whatsoever. Always has.
All you need is the "retrofit" cam and lifters, and a "cam button", which goes between the nose of the cam anf the timing cover. If you use a typical street roller, they're made out of the same material as flat-tappet cams, so you don't even need a special distributor gear. If you use a cam with a billet steel core, then you need either a special gear, or you need ot have the cam made with a casiron gear shrunk onto the steel cam core. Several of the cam mfrs supply cams made that way.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Most cam companies i know save the billet steel cores for solid rollers when it comes to off-the-shelf street grinds. So i would not worry about the bronze gear issue.
But yes, the retro-fitted cam, retro lifters, and button (in either the needle bearing or solid brass - i think its brass - design. i use the needle bearing type)
But yes, the retro-fitted cam, retro lifters, and button (in either the needle bearing or solid brass - i think its brass - design. i use the needle bearing type)
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