I already did a search, and came up with the heat method, the install tool method, and the hone method....

OK, I'm using the factory balancer, on the the factory crank. Used the removal tool on the tear down, it was tough, but it came off. For the install, it slides right on for about a 1/4", or to about the edge of the timing cover/seal.

I used the install tool from AutoZone (rental) and it went on another 1/4" with what I would consider acceptable force. After that, I had to take a breath after each turn of the wrench, and for a guy my size, trust me, that's tooooo much force. I removed, and tried heating it real good with a heat gun, and had no better luck.

From what I can tell, I need about another half inch to 3/4". Is the heat gun idea good enough, or should I try 200 degrees in the over for while?

From what I can tell, there's no burrs or gouges in the crank or the balancer. What's my next step? A new balancer? I'm almost out of ideas, and I'm still a long way from home!!!!!

 

Have you tried greasing it up? Along with other forms of installation?

 

I used a good bit of assembly lube.

...it's hard to explain, but it doesn't seem to be a "lube" issue. It feels like it's just too small. Of coure, as I said it's the same balancer and the same crank.

Once I start to use the install tool, it goes on smoothly, with a little bit of force, but after about 7 or 8 turns (about 1/4" deep approx.) it starts to feel like I'm stripping out a thread, of course, there's no threads, but you know how that feels.

see pic:

That's currently as far as it will go with no tools. The yellow line shows the edge of the degree marker. The red line shows how far I can go with the install tool.

 

have you checked for correct alignment of the key and burrs on the key?

 

Just keep adding lube to it. I wouldn't try heating it to much. It could actually swell and make the hole to small. Mine was super hard to get on and I was sure that I was going to strip out the threads in the crank snout. It eventually went on after many tough 1/4 turns. I used the install tool from autozone as well. Double check to make sure that the key is not damaged or bured that is keeping the balancer groove from going on smooth.

 

yup, what ede said. That little key in the crank can move out of position when you remove the balancer. You would have to remove the balancer and get the key level with the crank. If It dosent move easy you can pop the key out with a block of wood or a screwdriver if its stubborn, then reposition it and tap it in. You should be able to put a block of wood over the balancer and hammer the balancer on all the way, not that it is advisable to ever hit a crank with a hammer, even with wood as a crude method to absorb some of the blow. But it should go on easy enough all the way and then just stop when it is all the way on. The balancer will also make a different sound when tapped with a hammer when it is on all the way. As far as a new one Im still dreaming of a fluidampener balancer for my next motor, but a good old oem for $60 should be acceptable enough.

 

i have a funny story about this...sucked for me as well during my cam install...first real mod i ever did too so i was WAY uneasy about the whole deal.

no parts store in the TRI STATE area have a balancer installation tool, i was SOL.

what i had to do was.....put the balancer on the crank....hit it on either side a few times with a RUBBER dead blow mallet.....put the crank bolt in with a thick *** washer.....turn 1/4 a turn....whack it a few times with the hammer....turn 1/4 ...whack with hammer....

took me about a damn hour to get it on......

heat didnt work...grease didnt work.....it took brute force...

i thought for 100% sure that the crack threads were gonna tear out.....especially at the beginning where it was only in there for about 2 turns.......
by some miracle of the lord himself....the threads stayed in and the balancer went on.

so i say WITH the installation tool.....lube up the pully and crank with whatever you have handy...crisco...butter (joke) get the balancer on as far as safely possible with the installer.....get the dead blow hammer....rubber....smack it a few times .....top bottom, left , right...1/4 turn..... and repeat......

now dont go all off babe ruth style and swing at the balancer with full out force....just a good solid lil thud.....

 

OK...maybe we're getting somewhere.

What do you guys mean by popping out/aligning the key? I thought the crank and the key etc. were all one piece? I guess I'm not sure what you mean. the raised portion lines up with the groove in the balancer (obviously). What else is there???

...and thanks for the responses...

 

The crank snout keyway is milled semicircular, which means it accepts a Woodruff key. Several thinkgs could be wrong with the key:

The broacked keyway in the balancer hub may not be perfectly aligned with the key in the snout;

If the key was tapped into place with a hammer, it may have a slight mushroom peened on its top, interfering with the keyway broached in the hub;

Even if the Woodruff key is not mushroomed, it may not be installed squarely in the seat, making it out of parallel with the crank snout and high on one end, interfereing with the hub keyway.

Make sure the key is not damaged, and is installed fully and squarely in the snout.

Inspect the snout for any burrs, galling, or other damage that would interfere with a clean installation. Repair as necessary with a file and/or stone.

Lube the hub, snout, key, and keyway with clean oil, and apply a little grease to the inner seal lips to ease assembly and prevent seal damage.

Heating the hub often doesn't help, since the hub and snout temperature will quickly equalize as soon as any contact is made. You only have a few seconds with a heated hub to fully install it. Anyone that has used a bearing heater to install push-fit bearings will attest to that.

Start the hub straight and pull it home with the installer tool.

Avoid using a hammer if at all possible, since the shock can loosen the outer damper ring from th eelastomer, adn you'll soon get to do it all over again with a new balancer.

 

Thanks Vader.

...Since my last post, I've found a few pics, and I understand the key thing! All your posts make more sense now!

...so should I just get a new key, and save any possibility of damage? ...and do I need to pull the timing cover off to get it back on once I get it out? I'm sure I could answer that myself if it weren't almost 2 am, but it's dark and I'm tired!!!!

 

the ring wont fall off as long as you hit the dampener closer to the middle....

i still suggest a good rubber dead blow mallet with a 3-4 inch face.

and if you didnt know or SEE the keyway in the crank ...nor saw the noitch traveling down the dampener......you shouldnt be working anywhere near a car lol

 

No, I saw it alright, just didn't realize that the key was actually a seperate piece that fit into the crank, and therefore could get outta whack. ...hehe LOL



anyhow....IT'S ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brute force my friends!!! After I gave it a few REALLY hard turns, it kinda freed up a little, but not much. I just kept turning it. I was at the point where I could only turn it a few quarter turns in a row, without catching my breath and straightening my back out! ....but none the less, the ***** sucker is ON!:rockon:



....Thanks for all the help guys!:hail:

 

yeah it takes brute force and a BFW Big F#$%ING wrench-