I just received a call from my machinist letting me know they have finished the cleaning and magnafluxing on the block (87+ 350 roller) I picked up and it's good. Well, good except some scoring on the #7 cylinder wall. He told me they will rebore it .030 and I can now order my new pistons.

Here's my question, should I order the pistons in a rebuild kit or should I purchase the individual parts separately? I was looking at a rebuild kit from Scoggins that included Speed Pro pistons and Clevite77 bearings but I'm starting to second guess myself. My goal for the engine is pretty simple and pretty vague. I would like to have between 275-325rwhp. If my calculations are anywhere close, that's 350-400 at the crank. I plan on reusing the stock crank just having it polished, ordering new 4130 rods, new pistons, ARP bolts and of course all new gaskets and such. I was also looking at Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons which is where I started second guessing myself. I was told the Speed Pro pistons are made by TRW but are they good? If you had to choose, would you go with the KB of Speed Pro pistons? This is my first engine build up and I don't want to sacrifice the bottom end quality.

As far as the heads go, that is still up in the air. I'm looking at going with either stock L98, 113 Aluminum Vette L98 or Vortec heads. I just figured I would build a strong bottom end while I was still researching what heads I want to go with.

Any suggestions anyone can offer to build the bottom end I'd appreciate it.

Thanks

 

Get a kit. Have you tried Northern Auto? I get rebuild kits from them regularly, they are cheap and easy to qwork with. Here is there site: http://www.northernautoparts.com?

Martin

 

There really is no such thing as a "kit." People just toss a collection of parts into one box and call it a kit. That being said, I prefer piecing an engine out piece by piece, part by part. You will find that most of those 'kits' (using the ones offered by summit here) inlude things like HV oil pumps and in some cases, bearings of "questionable" quality. I've heard Clevit has had quality control issues. I use strictly Federal Mogul now.

Speed Pro, TRW, all one in the same as they are all under the name of Federal Mogul. For cast, sure they are fine. For hypereutectics, yea they are ok. Another name for hypereutectics is Keith Black, like you suggest. I would probably end up with KB.

me with plastigauge. That stuff has no right to be around an engine. Do it right, use a good feeler gauge.

As for heads, wathc out for hidden costs. Depending on what cam you plan on running, most of those heads will require some milling down of the guide boss to allow for more valve lift. Things lock up around .480" valve lift otherwise. Another thing to consider. In order to really bring out the heads, they would have to be ported and polished, which isn't hard. Get an electric die grinder, speed adjuster device, and some carbides and have at it. Sitting Bull has a link to a how to in his sig. They were for a 601 head, IIRC. But the general theory applies for all heads, except the Vortec. Talk to F-BIRD'88 about porting Vortec's.

 

Isn't that the definition of kit? A set of parts or materials to be assembled.

 

ME Leigh...do you ALWAYS have to point things out like that? JEEZ...

 

Usually if you shop around you can find a kit with your choice of components, such as federal mogul bearings, etc. You usually save some decent cash that way too.

 

So am I supposed to use a feeler gauge for the Main and Rod Bearing Clearances, I am totally unclear on this... what tools am I supposed to use for measuring clearances?

 

Originally posted by Stekman
me with plastigauge. That stuff has no right to be around an engine. Do it right, use a good feeler gauge.

I cannot believe you said that. Have you ever rebuilt an engine Stekman ? Plasti-gage is what you use on the main and rod bearings. I haven't rebuilt an engine in at least 13 years and I know they didn't invent a feeler gauge for main and rod bearing clearances since then.

 

It's strange.. I asked in another post also, and someone replied Feeler Gauge also... Now I'm more confused...

So which is it... Feeler gauge, plastigauge, mic...?

 

Hah, oops, wrong gauge. Brain fart or something along those lines

Yes I have (re)built an engine. I used a mike, dial bore guage, and a snap gauge. Feeler gauges were also around that engine, thouh. Plastigauge isn't accurate enough for me.

 

plasti gage is a waste of time. use mics or similar precission tools to check clearances

 

Using a feeler gauge is a silly thought. Using plastigauge is stupid.

 

If your total experience is you rebuilt one engine do you feel qualified to give advice?

 

His advice is just as good as someone saying "use plastigauge".

 

IMO, I'd use the machine shop for a parts source. If you low ball the guy and buy parts froma catalog and have a problem, there's no one to bail you out. There are quality parts out there, but I prefer to purchase then from the local machine shoip (or through them) That way they make a few more bucks, you can go to them for advice and everybody is happier.
As far as using plastigauge, let me say this, I don't "build" engines, there are guys out there who own machine shops that are very good at what they do and they can go through the whole assembly process. I like to have my machine shop do the work, and then assemble the engine my way. That way, I know how it went together and it gives me an opportunity to recheck the machine shop, besides, the customer comes back to me, not the machine shop, so I like to see what's going on. During this assembly I use plastigauge to check tolerances , just to make sure. It is no substitute for mics!!!! But it does give you another tool to use.

 

in my engine rebuilding class at college ase cert... we spent a good time trying to proove plastigauges reliability... we used every method of measurment for clearences guess what??? platigauge wasnt off one bit when used correctly thats the keyword.

for instance when measuring con rods clearences only put oil on the bottom half of the bearing no oil goes on the side with the plastigauge thats where people commonly mess up...i have my work sheets from that class still im a believer in plastigauge

 

At least plastigage can be used for that purpose unlke a "feeler guage"

 

This is true. It is in fact made for that job. Its just crappy. As far as testing it and having it being dead on, I dont believe that. I dont believe it, because we have done the same thing, and had totally different results. Plastigauge isnt reliable, and if there is one spot on an engine that you dont want to be off by the slightest, that is it.