Im leakin anti-freeze..."Bar's Leaks" didnt fix it. Its makin a wierd noise and someone said it might be the water pump leaking it out. I found a water pump at carparts.com for like $16.00. If I got it, how hard is it to put it in, would I be able to do it, or send it to the shop.. whats involved in the project.

Brian

------------------
1986 Trans Am, T-Top, 305 TPI, Flowmaster 80 series. Much more to come in July.
[*]Sound System: Dual 12" Ground Zero Nuclear Series 900 watt RMS subs in custom box made to fit the rear well, Only 500 watts running them though, Pioneer Head Unit and Rockford Fosgate wiring.


AOL screen name= madbiker1

 

VERY easy. You need to remove your fan and then just unbolt pulley and unbolt the 4 bolts on the water pump. I did it in the winn dixie parking lot in an hour or so.

 

so all I need is basic hand tools? is anything a PITA to get to?

------------------
1986 Trans Am, T-Top, 305 TPI, Flowmaster 80 series. Much more to come in July.
[*]Sound System: Dual 12" Ground Zero Nuclear Series 900 watt RMS subs in custom box made to fit the rear well, Only 500 watts running them though, Pioneer Head Unit and Rockford Fosgate wiring.


AOL screen name= madbiker1

 

Not at all. I've changed onein a 7-11 parking lot. It takes twenty min. Good luck

 

Dude, it will take you way more than 20 minutes. Try a few hours. Changing the water pump was the first thing I ever did on my car and it took me 2 days. Of course that's just me, I like to take my time.

------------------

4 bolt 350, 10.4:1 Compression, Edelbrock Aluminum Heads 6085, LT4 Hot Cam /w 1.6 full rollers (Crane), Scat Crank, SLP 1 3/4" Headers, SLP Cold Air Intake, Crane AFPR, 48mm TB, ported plenum, stock runners, Accel Super Ram intake manifold, 95Z #24 injectors, stock fuel rails, T5 Tranny, 3.45s, 9 bolt rear, 4 wheel discs, BFG Comp T/As rear, SZ50s in front, Alston SFCs, ES Trans Mount, ES front A-arm bushings, ES front sway bar end links

 

2 days to change a water pump????????? lol it takes me 30 mins even when the engine is burning hot

------------------
92 z28 170,000 miles 14.20 on goodyear eagles only mods k&n and muffler fell off!
87 trans am 12.20 on motor too many mods to list

 

its not that hard to replace. basic tools is all you need. like others said, you need to remove belt(s). you might have to replace the hose connected to the pump if its really bad.

 

It took a weekend.. I wasn't working 2 days straight.

 

You should remove the upper fan shroud, then the thermal fan clutch and fan. From there, it's just a matter of loosening up your accesories like A/C, smog pump, alternator, from their brackets. The accessories will slide towards the centerline of the car so you can get your belt(s) off. Then it's only the lower radiator hose, heater hose, and the bolts that hold the pump to the engine block. From my experience, it's usually wise to get a new heater hose and lower radiator hose. The times in the past I've replaced pumps these hoses have been melted to the pump, and it was easier just to cut the damned things off and replace them. Hope this helps!

 

it depends on the year of your car...some have a lot of accesories bolted onto or through the pump. if this is the case, you will need to take them all off. if not, the job gets simpler, like the others said. remove the fan and belt(s) then the hoses and 4 mounting bolts. when you put the new one on, use some sealant on the gasket (like black permatex or something equivalent) just cover one side of the gasket, put the bolts through the water pump, then slide the gasket on. cover the other side of it and then bolt the pump up to the block. make sure all your hose clamps are tight afterwards...all you really need is a deep 9/16 socket, a deep 14mm, and a 5/8 and 15mm socket (for some reason half my bolts are standard, the other half metric) and a screwdriver for the clamps, a prybar for tightening the belts, basic tools...

------------------
85 Z28- 350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and Edelbrock cat back, Summit headers and vette servo
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio

 

If you want the new one to not leak, you are going to have to ensure a good seal with the gaskets. This means cleaning off the old gasket on the block with a razor, which may take a considerable amount of time depending on how cooked on the old gasket it. You need to buy some of that gasket glue stuff also to help seal it up.

When you get the old water pump out, you will see there is a small hole on the underside of it. Try running water through the pump with a garden hose and if water comes out of this hole, then you know your water pump was ready to be replaced.

[This message has been edited by Rob90TA (edited May 27, 2001).]

 

Exactly. The water pump can be fairly easy, or quite involved. If you are meticulous about cleaning the gasket surfaces, painting the replacement pump, flushing the system completely, sealing and treating the bolts, readjusting all the accessory belts ('87 and older), and cleaning up after you are finished, you can spend the better part of a long afternoon.

It's like a distributor cap - it's a piece of cake on the L98, but it will take you all day on an LT1...

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Thats why my friend got rid of his

------------------
1992 Pontiac Firebird (stock)
- 5.0L V8 TBI / Automatic Trans / Every option, excluding leather
- Killer car audio system:

• Aiwa CDC-MP3 head unit
• Rockford Fosgate 360a2 amp
• pair of 12" MTX Thunder 5000s in a custom box
• Pioneer 3-way 6x9s, soon to add more more more!

 

You guys are right about the old gaskets. Sorry I didn't mention it in my earlier post. I guess it slipped my mind because I've never had a problem with it. It was only one or two swipes of a razor blade and it was good to go.