engine ground strap
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From: Maine
Car: 89 Formula 350 WS6
Engine: 383 miniram
Transmission: 700R4
engine ground strap
has anybody ever forgotten to attach the ground strap from the back of the head to the firewall and if so, what happened when you tried to start the car?
Joined: May 2004
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
if you also don't have a ground from the battery to the body you get a bad voltage drop & that can cause all kinds of problems
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I forgot mine. A shower of sparks flew out at me when I hooked up the battery. A subtle reminder to check all the major grounds.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
It's always a good idea to have a direct ground to the engine.
Otherwise: Snap, crackle, pop, **** crispies.
Otherwise: Snap, crackle, pop, **** crispies.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by DENN_SHAH
if you also don't have a ground from the battery to the body you get a bad voltage drop & that can cause all kinds of problems
if you also don't have a ground from the battery to the body you get a bad voltage drop & that can cause all kinds of problems
how do i go about grounding from battery to body?
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,262
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
White91GTA, just a small wire, about 10 gage or so from the negative side of the battery to the fender.
i have seen a ring & pinion get eaten up from not having a battery to body or a motor to body ground. why the guy wasn't having other problems i don't know.
i have seen a ring & pinion get eaten up from not having a battery to body or a motor to body ground. why the guy wasn't having other problems i don't know.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
DENN_SHAH...thanks for that info. I will have to look at my car and see if I have the ground there or not and if not I will definately be putting one on there.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Make sure you have a ground directly from the block to the battery, that the bet adivce i can give.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,262
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
no problem
grounds are 1 of the first things i check on electrical problems.
like ME Leigh said, the big cable from the battery to the motor, it needs to be able carry at least 500 amps, a good ground from the motor to the body & a good ground from the battery to the body, all 3 are needed.
i have 2 grounds straps from the motor to the body on my car. with the motor running, everything electrical is powered by the alternator, so a single small wire motor to body ground won't last long with a 100+ amp alternator.
grounds are 1 of the first things i check on electrical problems.
like ME Leigh said, the big cable from the battery to the motor, it needs to be able carry at least 500 amps, a good ground from the motor to the body & a good ground from the battery to the body, all 3 are needed.
i have 2 grounds straps from the motor to the body on my car. with the motor running, everything electrical is powered by the alternator, so a single small wire motor to body ground won't last long with a 100+ amp alternator.
There's no need for a direct battery to block cable. Put a 4-gauge ground from the battery to the frame, and another from the back of the block to the firewall.
While you're doing this, another good idea is to upgrade the alternator-to-battery positive wire to 4-gauge, as well. Try to keep the wires as short as possible, but well-routed.
While you're doing this, another good idea is to upgrade the alternator-to-battery positive wire to 4-gauge, as well. Try to keep the wires as short as possible, but well-routed.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Originally posted by ME Leigh
Make sure you have a ground directly from the block to the battery, that the bet adivce i can give.
Make sure you have a ground directly from the block to the battery, that the bet adivce i can give.
I honestly don't see a point in running a cable directly from the engine block to the battery, unless you have no good grounding point on the frame because of excessive rust, or you have some ridiculously powerful ignition. You're not going to route a wire through the belts, so you have to run the wire to the back of the engine block anyway. A ground wire to the firewall from the block and a ground wire from the frame to the battery would do the same job.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never seen it done that way.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never seen it done that way.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Originally posted by CaysE
I honestly don't see a point in running a cable directly from the engine block to the battery, unless you have no good grounding point on the frame because of excessive rust, or you have some ridiculously powerful ignition. You're not going to route a wire through the belts, so you have to run the wire to the back of the engine block anyway. A ground wire to the firewall from the block and a ground wire from the frame to the battery would do the same job.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never seen it done that way.
I honestly don't see a point in running a cable directly from the engine block to the battery, unless you have no good grounding point on the frame because of excessive rust, or you have some ridiculously powerful ignition. You're not going to route a wire through the belts, so you have to run the wire to the back of the engine block anyway. A ground wire to the firewall from the block and a ground wire from the frame to the battery would do the same job.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never seen it done that way.
I'd post a picture If I could get the Attach file option to work.
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Its best to have the large gauge cable go right to teh block/head as the starter is the single largest load. Dont want it pulling current through the smaller ground wires hooked up to the engine.
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From: Maine
Car: 89 Formula 350 WS6
Engine: 383 miniram
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by dimented24x7
Its best to have the large gauge cable go right to teh block/head as the starter is the single largest load. Dont want it pulling current through the smaller ground wires hooked up to the engine.
Its best to have the large gauge cable go right to teh block/head as the starter is the single largest load. Dont want it pulling current through the smaller ground wires hooked up to the engine.
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Good point 
