Replace 1 piece RMS?
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Replace 1 piece RMS?
I have the engine out of the car to replace the oil pan gasket. and do some detailing.
Question is my 89000 mile 305 has the factory 1 piece Rear main seal that is not leaking.
Since the engine is out should I:
1. Replace because it is there in front of me. (Risk possible leak with new seal. It has happened to me once....)
or
2. Leave the seal alone since it is not leaking and take my chances that it will not leak in the future?
What do you experieced engine wrench heads think?
Question is my 89000 mile 305 has the factory 1 piece Rear main seal that is not leaking.
Since the engine is out should I:
1. Replace because it is there in front of me. (Risk possible leak with new seal. It has happened to me once....)
or
2. Leave the seal alone since it is not leaking and take my chances that it will not leak in the future?
What do you experieced engine wrench heads think?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I had planned on replacing mine when I had the engine out at 141k for the upgrades. However, I couldn't get the flexplate bolts loose (still puzzled over that one), so I just left it. Currently 166k miles, still doesn't leak.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,940
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From: Glendale, AZ
Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
I say change it. It only takes 5 minutes. Better to do it now than to pull the trans out a month down the road if it decides to start leaking.
I also vote for change it. seals do wear and I'd say the chance of new one leaking is still less than the chance of old one leaking (if not now than in 20k miles). This is especially true if new seal is not installed with a screw driver, but that's a different dodge neon story.
And look at it this way, right now it costs you few bucks more and 15 minutes. If it starts leaking later, you'd still have to do the same work of pulling the tranny.
And look at it this way, right now it costs you few bucks more and 15 minutes. If it starts leaking later, you'd still have to do the same work of pulling the tranny.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,295
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
another vote to change it... i think the chances of it not leaking after replacing it are better than potential leaks from wear and time with the old one.
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
if the engine is already out id change it along with any other gaskets you can while its easily accessable..
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I guess I should have said: If I was using a petroleum-based engine oil (which I am not), I'd probably change it. A good synthetic engine oil will keep the seal pliable and reduce wear.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,067
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Originally posted by five7kid
I guess I should have said: If I was using a petroleum-based engine oil (which I am not), I'd probably change it. A good synthetic engine oil will keep the seal pliable and reduce wear.
I guess I should have said: If I was using a petroleum-based engine oil (which I am not), I'd probably change it. A good synthetic engine oil will keep the seal pliable and reduce wear.
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