I know there's a formula/procedure that if U set the timing mark at 0*, there are certain cylinders that U can dry adjust the valves and then rotate to another location and set the rest of them (or some).

Can anybody refresh my memory on this?

THANKS,
Craig

 

With very small cams, like a stock 929 or the "peanut" cam, you can get close enough that way; but with larger cams, too many of the valves will be on their ramps for it to work right.

The easiest shortcut, although still not terribly precise, is to adjust each intake when that cyl's exhaust is just opening; and adjust the exhaust when the intake is just closing.

 

OK Thanks

Just wanted to get it close enough so it would run good enough so I could do a wet adjustment. Just got the heads back from getting a valve job done

"GIT-R-DONE".

Craig

 

Or you can set them with the engine running..

Summet sells little oil return clips to make the job less messy too.

-- Joe

 

Interesting....I've always had good luck setting them with the TDC NR1 and TDC NR6 method the Haynes and Chiltons manuals recommend. And that was with bigger than stock cams.

I just adjusted mine on the engine stand yesterday, and all seems well. I guess I'll know fer sure when I fire it up!

EDIT: Just a thought, but maybe it worked OK on the Comp XE cam I have in this engine because of the quick ramp rates??

 

why dont you set it like this? i think its the easiest way

bring #1 cylinder to TDC. tighten all rockers until theres no movement in the pushrod. now spin the engine 360° and tighten all loose rockers again. then give them all another 1/2 or 3/4 turn.

i think thats a very easy solution. its working very well for me. no noisy valvetrain or something like that

Nebu.

 

If U tighten the rocker when the lifter is at the top of it's lift/cam lobe--it leaves a bunch of slop when it returns to 0 lift--doesn't it?

 

You never tighten them until the pushrods dont turn at all. That is asking for a damaged cam, or worse. There are lots of threads with this process described in detail.

 

Yup, what he said. You tighten when you feel the push rods resisting to turn.

 

yes i dont mean tighten them so hard until you cant turn them anymore. just until you feel slight resistance in the pushrod.

nebu.

 

Yeah, that's pretty much it. By the book:

Set nr1 cyl at TDC, compression stroke. Adjust IE on nr1, and E vlvs on 3, 4,8 cyls and I on 2,5, and 7.
Rotate damper 360 degrees. and adjust E 2,5,6,7 and I 3,4,6 and 8.
That's the abb. version. And you're done.

But Nebu's way sounds much slicker to me, and does the same thing!!

 

OK, here's how I do it.
Pull the plugs to make it easier, put the engine on #1 tdc compression. (put a rag in the plug hole, when it blows out it's on the compression stroke). Using a breaker bar crank the engine over to where the exhaust valve just starts to open, that's when you adjust the intake, Crank the engine over to where the intake just starts to close, that's when you adjust the exhaust. (on each cylinder).
Now when you're doing the adjustment, loosen the nut up until there's play in the pushrod, now by moving the pushrod up and down SLOWLY take the play out of it. (the idea here is to take the movement out of the pushrod w/o collapsing the lifter) Use one hand to move the pushrod up and down while cranking down the nut, this process is a little like having sex with a chihauha. Once the play is taken out, then crank down the nut another 1/2-3/4. Run the firing order this way, bolt the valve covers on and run the car. If you've done it right, there's no reason to readjust them with the car running unless you want to recreate the Exxon Valdez. If this is a new engine, crank the engine over by hand while using a drill to pump up oil pressure, this way you can check for leaks and insure the rockers are oiling prior to installation. If these are new lifters pump them up on a bench using a pushrod to collapse the lifter and then use an oil can to pressurize them, you can feel them pumping up through the pushrod. If it's a new cam make sure you use a cam lube like Mellings, and then I use a dab of white grease on the bottom of the lifter and then dip it in STP. Startup is hard on new cams.
There are other ways to do it, this has been working for me for 30 years.
And BTW

 

I already assumed he and everyone else knew about spinning the pushrod between your fingers and tighten till you feel resistance....then 1/2 to 3/4 turns..........

And c'mon people!! Pretty much everything under the sun has been covered at one time or another here on this board...so - OK everybody, let's just quit posting all together and just do searches instead.

There's really no need to give a long-winded response and tell the guy to "do a search" at the very end. Just don't bother replying.

I'll step off my soapbox now....mods, you may now ban me.

 

This is something that comes up every week, and with a search this would have been answered immediately. Thats just the way things are.

 

I'll end this:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

Yea its for fourthgens, same deal.

I personally do with with the car running, much easier and I don't spill oil.

 

Wow, I'm impressed, that's the first time I used the

guy in a post.


cool.

 

 

I jsut gave a link....

 

yeah sorry, i didnt read it when i replied, but now i did.

thanks

 

This coming from a guy who posts videos of cars that arent his, claiming that they are!