I've been considering bringing my car to a local GM Dealer to get a couple things repaired on my car, that regular mechanic shops have failed to correct...

I know it is the most expensive way to get your vehicle repaired, but I am very curious to see if they can produce results for me, seeing as how I really want my car fixed and am willing to pay a little more money, to insure it is done right the first time.

Does anyone have any comments to this?

Is a GM Dealer a sure-fire way of getting your car fixed? (nevermind the money involved)

I am probably gonna take her in this weekend, or early next week.

Thanks guys

------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ Overdrive
Wheels: 16" 1992 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim)
Tires: Z-rated Fulda Extremos 245/50/16s (new)
Extra: T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

NO. A gm dealer is no better. Last time I brought my car to Joe Macpherson Cheverolet, it came back running worse. They actually cut one of my vacuum lines somehow and gave me a huge *** vacuum leak, and some wierd thumping noise appeared for a few days after I took it back. Plus, my car was FILTHY.

What do you need fixed? Most likely, you can purchase any tools you would possibly need and do it yourself for cheaper. Please consider doing anything yourself before you pay someone else to do it. Even if you don't know how, buy a book and learn.

 

I think like anything it depends on the dealer. I've dealt with 6 different dealers in 4 different cities, and I've only had a negative experience with one of them, the rest have all been very good.

 

My dad took in his suburban to have them change the heater core, they did it and it still leaked all over the floor. Called them up and they said no way it could possibly leak and he had to argue with them to get them to fix it, They took it back and pressure tested it and what not and tryed to tell him again that there was no way it could leak. So he told them to drive it around and sure enough it leaked...
Dealers are not always sure things

------------------
90 IROC 5.7l (L98)
ram air, K&N's, air foil, full exhaust

LIKE A ROC

http://members.nbci.com/IrocZgarage/home.htm

 

There are some that are going to be OK but based on my own experience, the experience of the people I know as well as the things that mechanics who work in dealerships have told me over the years I just can't afford to give any of them the benefit of the doubt.
Any time I've taken my car to a dealer I've regretted it.

------------------
I was going faster than I'd ever gone before but then I fell off.

 

Unfortunatly, its not where you take it to, its who you take it to. You need to find somebody you trust. Just because they are a dealership, doesn't mean they know everything. The techs there are people just like you and me. Some really care about the quality of work, and some don't give a rats a$$, as long as that paycheck comes on friday.

However, from my personal experience, dealerships excell over the independants. I often get work from Goodyear, Precision Tune, Pep Boys, Castrol Car Care and many others because they couldn't fix it. They usually do all the "easy" stuff, then tell the customer that "you'll have to take it to the dealer". I have actually had a few customers spend several hundred dollars on stuff I really doubt they needed, and the problem never got fixed, and I was able to fix it for <$100 I guess you just have to shop around and get lucky?

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen

GM Master Tech
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
3.73 Posi
4wheel Disc Brakes
Summit 1-5/8" headers, 2.5" Dynomax catback.

Best 1/8: 9.519@72.74

'97 Bonneville SSE

 

I dunno, I thinkit depends dealer to dealer and place to place. I live in VIRGINA BEACH VA, in this city there are two RK CHEVY and Colonial Chevy. RK is a big con artist, and unless you are poor and really need a loan shark take your crap to him. Colonial Chevy is an excellent dealer. Great service. The people there go outta there way to help you.

I went there looking for a very hard to find part that GM made for only one van only two years. Somethign that hasn't been made for 18 years. Well they found the part and got it for me. And it wasn't super expenisive.

I've gone there for general questions and help and someone always comes out and helps me. So i really think its on the place and people.

I suggest you look around, ask around see who is best, whats the word of mouth??

 

In my experience there's both good and bad about using the dealerships for service. Most of them (just like the established successful "independent" shops everywhere) are competent and honest. Plus, they have access to the most complete information about the cars they're working on. The down side is, the techs tend to hate working on a greasy old POS that has 10,000 miles on it; they can't make book time because they have to spend too much time cleaning stuff up, they get their hands dirty, etc. They tend to get an old car in and want to just go hog-wild replacing every single part on it because they don't meet the tolerances or the specs in the book, which of course they won't because the tolerances are for new parts and these are used parts.

But if you can find someone at a dealer that likes your kind of car and knows it well, they can be incredibly valuable. The combination of the dealership resources, the training that techs are required to have, and a willing attitude, is hard to beat.

It's not fair to just lump them all together and say they're all great or they all suck; they vary greatly from one to the next. For some kinds of problems they are absolutely the wrong place to go; for instance, if you take your car in for something that they diagnose as a tire problem, the car is going out to a tire store, because dealers don't generally work on tires. I've even seen some dealers send cars out to carb places and front-end shops rather than tie up their own techs on production-line work like that. They make their greatest profit for the least trouble on warranty work. (Which is another reason they will sometimes discourage people from bringing in older cars).

But in any case, the dealer is not "sure-fire" any more than anybody else. No one is perfect, we're all just humans. If you have problems and nobody else has been able to find them, then yes, definitely try a dealer.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I REALLY AGREE WITH THE ABOVE POST. THINK OF YOUR CAR AS YOUR OWN BODY. IF YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE SURGERY YOU SHOULD RESEARCH THE DOCTOR, THE SURGERY PROCEDURE AND THE HOSPITAL. THE SAME FOR A CAR. KNOW THE DEALER, THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT, THE WARRENTY(AND DON'T BE AFRAID TO USE IT), AND THE MECHANIC. LET THE SERVICE WRITER KNOW THAT YOU LOVE YOUR CAR AND YOU EXPECT GOOD WORK. MOST WILL GIVE YOU THE SERVICE YOU REQUEST. REMEBER THE DEALER WILL USE NEW PARTS WHICH SOMETIMES IS A GOOD THING. ALSO KNOW WHAT YOU NEED BEFORE YOU TAKE YOUR CAR IN. DON'T GO THERE SAYING "I AM NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR". ALSO TRY NOT TO HAVE THEM SEARCHING FOR ELECTRICAL SHORTS, ONLY BECAUSE $75.00 PER HOUR CAN ADD UP FAST AT THE DEALER. JUST MY 2 CENTS.

------------------
86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels, New Leather seats, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

All excellent posts but please Mr. "86" don't shout (turn off the cap's).

Because a good mechanic is often so difficult to find, many people (myself included) will do the work themselves if you have the time and knowledge. If you lack the knowledge, reading the posts here will help a lot. Saving money, satisfaction of doing the job yourself, time (being able to fix something immediately) and fun are just a few other reasons.

I do all the work myself on my car. I just got tired of dealing with mechanics that would make the car worse than when I brought it in. Remember, no one will treat you car as well as the owner. So if you can do the work yourself, you will know exactly how well (or poor) the job was done - well, presuming you know what you're doing .

But to answer your question, all the above posts are right on. All dealers are different. Some are very good, some very bad, but I think most would be somewhere in between. I liked the post about finding a dealer, or more specifically a mechanic that likes the car you have. When I took my car in to a mechanic, I found if he liked the car I drive, he took a personal interest in fixing it right, and not just going after the last dollar to make for the dealer. You just have to make sure that that mechanic works on it. Afterall, the main reason they are in business is to make money.

 

Thanks for all the advice fellas.

I guess my real problem lies in the fact that I don't know any good mechanics that know TPI systems, and am starting to get desperate because I don't have the time or the know-how to do the work myself.

Guess I'll hold off on the dealer for the time being, but this is getting really really old...

Thanks again


------------------
Year: 1990
Make: Chevorlet
Model: Z-28 / IROC-Z
Color: Artic White w/ Gold decals
Engine: 5.0L V8 TPI
Trans: 700R4 Auto w/ Overdrive
Wheels: 16" 1992 Z-28 rims (w/ white trim)
Tires: Z-rated Fulda Extremos 245/50/16s (new)
Extra: T-Tops, Tinted Windows, Koni shocks, K&N Air, Edelbrock catback exhaust (soon)

 

I have taken my car to many places... almost every place in this sad sad place... I will never go back to some, and others I will go to on a regular basis... I say go in and talk with the guys working on your car... people that have trouble finding time to work on your car should be left alone... your business isn't worthwile to them so thier shoddy work isn't worthwile to you... also, places that refuse to take appointments are not interested in customer relations and probably do half a$$ed/over expensive jobs... i.e. my mother, a hater of all things mechanical goes in to get a pair of itty bitty honda civic P165's rimmed, comes off with a $220 bill... this shop doesn't take appointments and charges phenomemal prices... I go in to get a pair of P215's, at the goodyear shop and I come off with a $135 bill... both instances involved S class tires, the difference is service... So, if you get any sort of negative feelings "vibes" or the such, go somewhere else... Another suggestion is to try out new shops around the time inspection is due, put on a broken whiper blade or something cheap like that, which would fail inspection... if you get an estimate of something ridiculous (Someone tried to charge me $25 for a broken whiper blade) then you probably can't trust them...

------------------
1984 Firebird T/A - Daily driver
305 LG4, T5 - Hurst Short Shifter
Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb
Open Element Air Filter
Gutted Cat... missing stuff I'll need next year
IROC 16x8 Wheels
Goodyear P215/60/R16 87S - S stands for suck
(but I'm a cheap *** and I don't go 112... don't think I do...)
Quote from my sister: "It sounds like a boat"


I forgot to ask my question... I have enough knowledge on my hands, just nowhere to do any work, I have a gravel rieveway and a small gravel parking area off to the side... no pit or anything, what sort of equipment should I purchase to make work easier and how limited am I to repair work without a hydraulic lift, pit or paved surface?

[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited July 20, 2001).]

 

I was having weird problems with my camaro. I finally took it to the Chevy dealer after no shop could have it run right for more than a day. Chevy had it two days and I got it back and it ran great. Service was perfect and courteous. World Chevrolet in Orlando, Fl has been the best dealer experience I have ever had. Chevrolet dealerships have tools and scanners most small shops do not have. The problem I had was due to a part the was beginning to fail, but the voltage change in it was so slight no one thought it could be that. Chevy took the car in, plugged it in and test drove it connected. They noticed what was going on because of scan reports and it was fixed.

 

I have to disagree with a few of the statements.

First, warranty is the WORST kind of work you can do. I'll take a customer pay job over warranty anyday. Ask most dealer techs, and they will tell you the same. Dealerships w/ a higher percent of warranty vs customer pay jobs have a hard time keeping techs.

As for not taking the car to dealerships for electrical problems, well, our dealership is one of the better places to go. Granted, we do charge $70 an hour, but the local "Castrol Car Care", which is a small, ill-equipped and understaffed shop, charges $100 an hour. Would you rather pay less money at the dealer for techs who work on your type car very frequently w/ the latest equipment and most current and detailed info, or pay more from some place that may see your type car once a month, mostly for oil changes, non-OEM approved, outdated equipment, and inadequate (yes, I have seen Alldata) service info?

Like mentioned before though, the tools don't make the tech. If the tech doesn't have a clue, your SOL. Shop around and definatly go by word of mouth.

 

Learn all you can and work on it yourself. Although you may not have the experience or tools they do, this will mostly be acquired over time. I have known some excellent dealership mechanics who take pride in their work, the kind of guys that take their coveralls off and clean their hands before they hop in, just like you would. These men are mostly older and seem to be a dying breed judging by the experiences the rest of my family and friends have had. I have also known some snot-nosed punks that could give a crap about your car, or are strung out on something all the time. But nobody cares about the car more than you, and though you may be much slower and less equipped, you will be more cautious about doing the job right. I've never had a problem that required dealer attention yet, and other than bodywork (I can't paint worth a #$@$), I never will. Just my $0.02.

------------------
1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, Accel coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley AFPR, ported plenum,
Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, thick rubber floormats, no cats.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

I learned a very valuable lesson with my first new car, an 1985 Z28, at age 23. I didn't want to work on my car or do anything to it. Intimidated by the whole idea of doing anything new to me on my new car.

Well, I went in for my 500 mile breakin oil change. A day after I got the oil changed I noticed a wet oil spot in the parking lot. So, back I went to the dealer to have them take a look see. You know what they found? The oil drain plug was in finger tight! No apologies. Said it was no big deal, just a loose plug that they tightened up. I could be on my way. I was livid, I could see myself rolling down the freeway with the plug dropping out of my new Z28 and wham no oil pressure. Goodbye motor.

This is where reality smacked me upside the head. Others do not care about your car, even new Z28 Camaros that you are working your *** off to pay for yourself.

If you want to be sure it is done right, do it yourself. I buy GM's official Service Manuals for each new or used car I have had since. I am a layperson with a healthy dose of hand tools and some reasoning ability.
I think GM's Service Manuals are awesome tools. They have diagnostic trouble shooting flow charts. It will walk you thru what to check in what order to find what is going on. Just having one to refer to will give you valuable background information in discussing a problem with a shop that will be doing the repair.

I couldn't begin to tell you how gratifying it is to diagnose and fix a tough problem on your car yourself. Electrical problems are my very weak spot for me. I had a hot intermittant no start that drove me nuts. Of course, I could never get it to do it in my driveway. I ended up carrying tools and a voltmeter in the car with me. I ended up having THREE problem areas all contributing
to my no start! Each time I would find one and repair/replace, I thought it was gone. Then it would happen again, just not as frequently as before the previous repair.

Imagine bringing this in to a shop at $70.00 an hour and not being able to get it to do the no start at the shop. I am certain I would have thrown a lot of money at this problem without finding all three problem areas.

The point of it all is this, you can do most of the work yourself and get it done right. It takes me longer to diagnose and repair than the really good techs I am sure. All you really need is some good hand tools, a GM Camaro Service Manual, and some patience.
The money you save, spend it on mods to your car.

Steve
1989 IROC Convertible
22 Option Daily Driver

 

The last time I brought my car into a Chevy dealership, the mech I talked with explained to me that most of them were really knowlegeable on the newer models, since thats what they dealt with on a regular basis. Since they didn't have as much experience they could only go by whatever flowcharts they could dig up on my car, which is what I could have done myself. I then took it to a local mech who spent several days trying out different things and when they couldn't fix it they returned it back to me at no cost. A third mechanic found the problem and fixed it in about two days.
Since then I decided to do as much research on any problem I get first, by reading TM's and posting messages here on this board. If I decide its something too complicated for me to do I take it to a mechanic and see what they tell me first. If their diagnosis is the same then I let them do the work.
IMO I think dealerships are not the way to go to get an older car like a thirdgen fixed. They are good for warranty work. Dealership mechanics (like any other skilled profession)either move up or move elsewhere as they get better at what they do.

------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

Though I know little about the subject matter I have to agree with this quote
One of my coworkers used to work at a local Toyota dealer, and always complains about doing work under warranty there, I hear stories of rebuilding engines 5 times or so, all under warranty. He didn't make it sound so fun, and really sounded upbeat on non-warranty work. I guess that's how his wallet got filled.

------------------
--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series
Holley 600 cfm & vacuum advance
350 ready to get in and run as soon as i find a WC T5.

 

Yeah, warranty really sucks. I got paid 13 hours to put pistons in a 2000 Buick Century. That includes R&R of the engine, and complete teardown. I just barely made time, but thats WAY to much work for a day and a half pay.

Try finding a leak on an enhanced EVAP system for the warranties max diagnostic time of .3 (18 minutes). Of course, I don't want to turn this into a "cry session" for me, I understand I'm free to leave this job whenever I want, just trying to make the point.

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen

GM Master Tech
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
3.73 Posi
4wheel Disc Brakes
Summit 1-5/8" headers, 2.5" Dynomax catback.

Best 1/8: 9.519@72.74

'97 Bonneville SSE

 

I believe that it all depends on the specific dealer. Some have really good service departments that do good work and treatr their customers well. I can't say the same for some others that I have been too. I would only go if you have a good refference for the place.... refeerence is the key!

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***The driver formerly known as 89IROCZ***

1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
350c.i. TPI, rebuilt 700R4 auto w/shift kit, Dual catalyst Monza PaceSetter Cat-Back (currently no muffler, sounds on webpage) 3.23 Posi rear, Hypertech chip with 160stat, Under-Drive pulleys, AFPR, K&N's, !Air Box w/ Ram Air, moddified MAF, throttle body coolant bypass, Alarm, Keyless entry, remote starter, 92 Z28 AeroWing, Brand New Paint (6/21/01)

Future: ZZ4 TPI w/EGR, T56, 3.42 or 3.73, Spohn SFC, strut tower brace and LCA's

1989 Chevrolet Celebrity Eurosport
2.8 MPFI, no mods
225,000 miles and still ticking!

More info, pictures and sounds (of the IROC) available on my webpage: http://go.to/iroc-z

AOL IMer: GPA 0point0