Need help fast ( still overheating )
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 518
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From: SYLVANIA,OHIO,USA
Car: 89 Formula
Need help fast ( still overheating )
Well, today i installed a electric fan with a toggle switch, well after i got the fan to work i took it for a drive around town well it did fine all the way through town. I know because i checked it every so often to make sure it was working and wasn't to hot then as soon as i got to my house it over heated the only thing i haven't replaced is the thermostat and the water pump what else could be making it do this PLEASE HELP
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Single fan or dual fan? Does the water actually boil out, or are you just looking at the gauge?
Was the fan still running when you parked it?
Was the fan still running when you parked it?
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Also have you looked inside the radiator to see if it is clogged. That is something that I have to look at on mine. My temp (according to guage) is 230+ and that worries me a lot I need to figure mine out quick.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 518
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From: SYLVANIA,OHIO,USA
Car: 89 Formula
its a single fan and it does boil over and i cant tell anything with my temp gauge because it dont work and yes the fan was working, Also when u look inside the radiator it is moving like the water pump is working
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
First thing, with car running, carefully pop cap on radiator, (do this way before the water starts boiling over!!) When the thermostat opens you should see the water flowing in the radiator, if you dont, theres a problem! If the water is flowing and it's still running warm, you have a few options. What I did and would recommend would be to use a new 180* thermostat, have the radiator flushed and checked for leaks, install a new water pump, and when you fill the radiator, use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. I also used 1 bottle of Redline water wetter in the cooling system (summit racing sells it). My car runs 180 - 190 all the time in the hot sun, stuck in traffic!!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: SYLVANIA,OHIO,USA
Car: 89 Formula
Ok i might be wrong about the water flowing because when i do look in side i see the top of the water bubbling like the pump is working but i dont think it is flowing like it should
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Replace your thermostat. It is cheap and easy to replace. It won't be a huge investment if it doesn't fix it and it will eliminate one more thing from the list of possibilities. Did you clean out the fins of the radiator? Clean out the radiator and the A/C condensor if you have one. They get full of $hit in a hurry on our cars since we get all of our air from the air dam right off the ground. Make sure you burp the system completely when refilling it and get all of the air out of the system. I would fix that guage or buy a new one as well so you know for sure what is going on under the hood at all times.
You should not have to replace the water pump. The stock one is good enough to keep the car cool and as long as the belt is on it and the shaft is in one piece, it is good (unless it is leaking of course). If you must replace it, get an aluminum, high flow one. They help a little bit.
------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, BBK 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, CAI w/K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Alum. Driveshaft, Hotchkis STB, '99 Camaro seats.
Coming Soon!!: Fourth gen 3.42:1 rear, Spohn LCAs and Panhard.
You should not have to replace the water pump. The stock one is good enough to keep the car cool and as long as the belt is on it and the shaft is in one piece, it is good (unless it is leaking of course). If you must replace it, get an aluminum, high flow one. They help a little bit.
------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, BBK 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, CAI w/K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Alum. Driveshaft, Hotchkis STB, '99 Camaro seats.
Coming Soon!!: Fourth gen 3.42:1 rear, Spohn LCAs and Panhard.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 223
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From: Oklahoma City, USA
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: Yes
Transmission: That, too.
You could have a plugged up radiator. If it has some years on it, the internal passages can get plugged with crud, rust, corrosion or whatever. If it is bad enough, you won't get the fluid to flow through there fast enough to keep the motor cool. Small radiator shops can often "rod out" the ratiator in an effort to clean the worst of the gunk and free up some flow. This may fix the problem. If they can't rod it out, you may need a new radiator.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: SYLVANIA,OHIO,USA
Car: 89 Formula
Ok i will try that if this stuff dont work the i dont have a clue what it could be, Because when i had a new motor put in it( the same year 85 TPI 305) about a month ago everything was cool then when i had a new trans put in it thats when it started to overheat
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