new engine, high oilpressure.
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new engine, high oilpressure.
Rebuild 350tpi, new crank,rods, pistons,lt1intake.
When cold and idle i got around 75 psi, and when I "blipp" the throttle it goes of the scale and bottom out. When The car is warm It is around 50-60 psi, and when I "blipp" the throttle it goes to 75 psi. The gauge is a bit irratic, bounce around a bit. And when I take of the cabel to the oil-pressure censor the needle bottom out. Bad censor, or bad engine?
THanks
When cold and idle i got around 75 psi, and when I "blipp" the throttle it goes of the scale and bottom out. When The car is warm It is around 50-60 psi, and when I "blipp" the throttle it goes to 75 psi. The gauge is a bit irratic, bounce around a bit. And when I take of the cabel to the oil-pressure censor the needle bottom out. Bad censor, or bad engine?
THanks
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Put a mechanical gauge on it and see what you get. The one in the dash kinda sucks and is usually inaccurate.
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hmmm ok . Is there someway you can test the censor? When I got ignition ON but engine off, the gauge bottom outs. And some times it just goes to the bottom fast as hell. Then bounce upp again to around 70psi. Strange..
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
You can apply pressure to the sender with compressed air to test it. Compare the readings from a mechanical gauge to whats being displayed on teh dash
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cool thanks for the tips
I heard that when you turn ignition on, the needle should go to zero. And then when you turn on the engine on it should go to the right pressure. Min just goes to max when ignition on.
I heard that when you turn ignition on, the needle should go to zero. And then when you turn on the engine on it should go to the right pressure. Min just goes to max when ignition on.
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