NON 3rdgen 350 "68 chevell malibu" need some conformation/suggestions please.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
NON 3rdgen 350 "68 chevell malibu" need some conformation/suggestions please.
Here the info of my friends car my labor is free so there is a 1200$ parts range to consider. This thing must run after I get done to keep my manlyhood
So I could use some suggestions.
69 chevell malibu, 4k totaly dead will not go past this rpm. Im thinking that its an ignition problem, drt-rcr mentioned this in a prevoius post and I agree. Its already been converted to HEI we will probably go for an accel coil and internals, possibly changing some weights.
This could help solve some of the problem but it does free rev nicely to about 5600 with no fluttering but just to be safe it will be built up.
The cam "unknown": this cam is lumpy very much so, it will actually flutuate 400 rpm at idle. IMO its to freaking big for a heavy car
so despite my friends want to have a beefy cam I refuse to leave it in. This car has a "tb350" 1200 stall speed and 3:08 gears. Im thinking an MTC 1, 208-214@.50 to give it some low end grunt. It has none now so anything will be an improvement. Any suggestions here?
The heads are 76cc stock components. JETHROIROC made a statement that was true about back yard mechanics and big cams
These springs are weak as water so im thinking some cheap comp or crane double valve springs unless someone can reccomend a cam that would need better springs or has had bad luck with doubles.
Also thinking about 1.6 non roller rockers. Would you install them now or wait and see if it runs well 1st and then install them? Im not to sure they will be nessasary at the moment, but please convince me now before it gets back togather.
This does and will be using again a holley 600vac sec carb& performer rpm manifold. High altitude application.
Thanks for staying with me here
any suggestions well be VERY welcome!
SSC
So I could use some suggestions.
69 chevell malibu, 4k totaly dead will not go past this rpm. Im thinking that its an ignition problem, drt-rcr mentioned this in a prevoius post and I agree. Its already been converted to HEI we will probably go for an accel coil and internals, possibly changing some weights.
This could help solve some of the problem but it does free rev nicely to about 5600 with no fluttering but just to be safe it will be built up.
The cam "unknown": this cam is lumpy very much so, it will actually flutuate 400 rpm at idle. IMO its to freaking big for a heavy car
so despite my friends want to have a beefy cam I refuse to leave it in. This car has a "tb350" 1200 stall speed and 3:08 gears. Im thinking an MTC 1, 208-214@.50 to give it some low end grunt. It has none now so anything will be an improvement. Any suggestions here?
The heads are 76cc stock components. JETHROIROC made a statement that was true about back yard mechanics and big cams
These springs are weak as water so im thinking some cheap comp or crane double valve springs unless someone can reccomend a cam that would need better springs or has had bad luck with doubles.Also thinking about 1.6 non roller rockers. Would you install them now or wait and see if it runs well 1st and then install them? Im not to sure they will be nessasary at the moment, but please convince me now before it gets back togather.
This does and will be using again a holley 600vac sec carb& performer rpm manifold. High altitude application.
Thanks for staying with me here
any suggestions well be VERY welcome!SSC
Is the "hot-wire" to the distributor a full 12 volt source or is it connected to the stock, original wiring?
The HEI distributors need a full 12-volt source without resistors.
jms
The HEI distributors need a full 12-volt source without resistors.
jms
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jms:
Is the "hot-wire" to the distributor a full 12 volt source or is it connected to the stock, original wiring?
The HEI distributors need a full 12-volt source without resistors.
jms</font>
Is the "hot-wire" to the distributor a full 12 volt source or is it connected to the stock, original wiring?
The HEI distributors need a full 12-volt source without resistors.
jms</font>
Most people dont even think of that. Pause as I run to the garage. I admit it didnt check it 1st although I should have, but it does have a good 12 volt source from the alternator "alternator converted also".Thanks for the imput any little things to double check are great for problem solving.
SSC
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Any more imput guys? We would like to get this car to the track this weekend if possible, but Im debating if the heads need some work done to them if so it will take a good week.
SSC
SSC
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
With that cam and 1.6 rockers, stock springs (even brand new ones) would be inadequate. That setup would be an OK choice though. Comp 981 springs should be OK. For a budget job I'd go with teh Comp 1416 roller-tip ball-seat units, add a set of jam nuts. Pocket-port the heads if you have them off; with those junkers it makes a HUGE difference; although they'll never really be good, they can at least be made somewhat less bad.
I think the immediate cause of the problem is in the ignition, probably the ballast resistor thing, I've seen that happen before when people hooked up a HEI to existing points wiring. Run a BIG wire (12 gauge would be good) from the fusebox to the dist.
This whole car sounds like one of those deals where somebody who didn't know a thing about hot-rodding slapped it together... it has all of the typical late 70s-80s engine non-builder mistakes: crap heads, no converter, crap gears, too much cam, etc. etc. This reminds me of those cars I used to see people build that went slower every time they touched it; the thing might look and idle like a pro stock but was actually faster when it had a 2-barrel and single exhaust on it....
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
I think the immediate cause of the problem is in the ignition, probably the ballast resistor thing, I've seen that happen before when people hooked up a HEI to existing points wiring. Run a BIG wire (12 gauge would be good) from the fusebox to the dist.
This whole car sounds like one of those deals where somebody who didn't know a thing about hot-rodding slapped it together... it has all of the typical late 70s-80s engine non-builder mistakes: crap heads, no converter, crap gears, too much cam, etc. etc. This reminds me of those cars I used to see people build that went slower every time they touched it; the thing might look and idle like a pro stock but was actually faster when it had a 2-barrel and single exhaust on it....
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
This reminds me of those cars I used to see people build that went slower every time they touched it; the thing might look and idle like a pro stock but was actually faster when it had a 2-barrel and single exhaust on it....
</font>
This reminds me of those cars I used to see people build that went slower every time they touched it; the thing might look and idle like a pro stock but was actually faster when it had a 2-barrel and single exhaust on it....
</font>

I called a machine shop and he quoted me 300$ for a set of 64cc heads with the stock valves. These are complete but they have the stock springs as well. It looks like the valve guides in the 76cc heads need replaced. To replace the worn guides and surface the heads would be around 200$ so the 64cc heads seem like a very good deal plus the engine has the stock 8:1 pistons so we cant go wrong there. budget is dwindeling good thing its not my money

Thanks for the input
any more?SSC
Underneath the rotor, is it a rusty brown looking color?
Do the weights move easily? Is the hole where the weights go over the little studs worn out? Are the springs shot?
I've even seen the weights jump up over each other and totally hang. I've seen them be so "rusty" they hang open when the car is on the road. Look underneath the weights for tell-tale signs of hanging or sticking advance weights.
Is the vacuum advance cannister holding any vacuum?
jms
Do the weights move easily? Is the hole where the weights go over the little studs worn out? Are the springs shot?
I've even seen the weights jump up over each other and totally hang. I've seen them be so "rusty" they hang open when the car is on the road. Look underneath the weights for tell-tale signs of hanging or sticking advance weights.
Is the vacuum advance cannister holding any vacuum?
jms
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jms:
Underneath the rotor, is it a rusty brown looking color?
Do the weights move easily? Is the hole where the weights go over the little studs worn out? Are the springs shot?
I've even seen the weights jump up over each other and totally hang. I've seen them be so "rusty" they hang open when the car is on the road. Look underneath the weights for tell-tale signs of hanging or sticking advance weights.
Is the vacuum advance cannister holding any vacuum?
jms</font>
Underneath the rotor, is it a rusty brown looking color?
Do the weights move easily? Is the hole where the weights go over the little studs worn out? Are the springs shot?
I've even seen the weights jump up over each other and totally hang. I've seen them be so "rusty" they hang open when the car is on the road. Look underneath the weights for tell-tale signs of hanging or sticking advance weights.
Is the vacuum advance cannister holding any vacuum?
jms</font>
When you actually price the componets its 30$ more for a new distributor

Ok so I took off work early and got all the parts. The heads, MTC-1 cam kit, crane double springs, crane 1.6 rockers, accel distributor, melling high volume oil pump, alot of gakets and a 12 pack
. I just finished polishing the heads and have 8 springs to install still. I dont have time to really port them so I just debured them, probably a waste of time but they look nice en shinny
. I took theengine out last night so It wont be ready for the track tomorrow but it should be up and running tomorrow night, I'll post the results then.SSC

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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Well its almost done
My friend went to get a new carb SA 670. the holley that was on there is dumping fuel so that and it isnt shiney like everthing eles on the engine mandates a new carb. I just love working on something that isnt mine until 3 in the morning and finding out the carb is screwy.
Good things the oil pressure is up
nothing appears to be leaking.
The headders arent leaking.
I get to keep the old carb
.
Nothing much bad except I need to re adjust some valves.
Well about an hour or so and it should be street ready with a lot more power than before.
SSC
My friend went to get a new carb SA 670. the holley that was on there is dumping fuel so that and it isnt shiney like everthing eles on the engine mandates a new carb. I just love working on something that isnt mine until 3 in the morning and finding out the carb is screwy. Good things the oil pressure is up

nothing appears to be leaking.
The headders arent leaking.
I get to keep the old carb
.Nothing much bad except I need to re adjust some valves.
Well about an hour or so and it should be street ready with a lot more power than before.
SSC
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Done! It now will spin the tires and hits 5500 in 1st and second. We took it up the road and hit 4500, the speedo is 120mph and it was burried with alot more pedle left so I can say it will keep up with the lg4 im my bird so its a start.
Guess its time to put some better valve springs in the fbird.
SSC
Guess its time to put some better valve springs in the fbird.
SSC
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Cool! So is it faster than, say, a 70 Chevelle 350 2-barrel? I hope so...
What does the owner think of huge cams in stock motors now?
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
What does the owner think of huge cams in stock motors now?
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Cool! So is it faster than, say, a 70 Chevelle 350 2-barrel? I hope so...
What does the owner think of huge cams in stock motors now?
</font>
Cool! So is it faster than, say, a 70 Chevelle 350 2-barrel? I hope so...
What does the owner think of huge cams in stock motors now?
</font>

Well he wanted to keep the big cam that was in it with the new heads & springs. I cant seem to convince him that it would hurt the low end grunt the car needs to overcome weight and spin the 3:08's. Im going to tune it again after it gets a few more miles, but its already faster than his other car with a 6000$ boat anchor powering it.
SSC
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
So what exactly is in the car now? Did the "brick wall" situation get fixed?
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
SSC,
Tell your "friend" that a huge lumpity stick in a street car isn't always the best fit - especially a heavy car. I've been down that road with a couple of land yachts.
You can get away with it if you advance the valve timing enough (but you'll lose some high-end power) and cheat with a converter to get the R's up faster. If you look at the torque numbers that are produced with a stock cam, you'll understand that a bunch of lift isn't always the best solution. Bigger valves can be a good solution, since the flows can be increased but the valve timing and overlap can remain relatively conservative - kinda the best of both worlds. If you don't mind domed pistons, you can increase the chamber sizes and get some rather large 11/32" BBC or Ford valves to fit well. Just a hint for the next build.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Get UP - Drop the bombshell!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Tell your "friend" that a huge lumpity stick in a street car isn't always the best fit - especially a heavy car. I've been down that road with a couple of land yachts.
You can get away with it if you advance the valve timing enough (but you'll lose some high-end power) and cheat with a converter to get the R's up faster. If you look at the torque numbers that are produced with a stock cam, you'll understand that a bunch of lift isn't always the best solution. Bigger valves can be a good solution, since the flows can be increased but the valve timing and overlap can remain relatively conservative - kinda the best of both worlds. If you don't mind domed pistons, you can increase the chamber sizes and get some rather large 11/32" BBC or Ford valves to fit well. Just a hint for the next build.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Get UP - Drop the bombshell!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
So what exactly is in the car now? Did the "brick wall" situation get fixed?
</font>
So what exactly is in the car now? Did the "brick wall" situation get fixed?
</font>
Now it has 64 heads stock valves, actualy they are the same size as the ones that were in the 76cc heads, MTC-1 cam kit, crane double springs. crane 1.6 rockers, street avenger 670, accel distributor & coil, melling high volume oil pump, gaskets.
We went over the budget by a 180$ due to the new carb.
The car runs alright the 4k wall is gone, it now pulls strong to 5500. Im not sure I can blame the 4k wall on the distributor the valve springs could have been a larger contributor than I though. They were very weak I could compress them totaly just by squeezing them in my hand. The laidy that owned the car told him that it ran 16's
. I like to know when it ran these 16's it sure as heck wasent recently. Chris said he was going to take it to the track tonight and see what it will do. He will probably blow the thing up and blame it on me, oh well I guess some people got money to blow.
Thanks for the input guys

SSC
EDIT: I'll post what he runs tonight as soon as he calls.
[This message has been edited by SSC (edited September 01, 2001).]
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