how hard is it to replace a blown head gasket on a 95 lt1, i know this ain't a 4th gen website but some of y'all have the motor or the car, please enlighten me on this subject

 

i would say it's more involved than hard.

1.) drain the coolant
2.) disconnect the wiring and remove the exhaust, intake and fuel assembly, and the coolant bypass tube on the back of the head.
3.) remove bracket assembly on the front of the motor, obviously depending on which head needs to be removed.
4.) unbolt the head and pull it off.
5.) you are supposed to replace the head bolts when you put it back on, any auto parts store carries them and gasket.
6.) asseble the head and torque the bolts in a series of sequences. For example, start with a circular pattern from the center out and torque the bolts to 50 lb/ft and work your way up by 10-15 lb/ft to the recommended spec. This might be overkill but it will make sure you get an even tightening sequence.

 

The head bolts do not have to be replaced on lt1 engines, they are not torque to yeild, only the lsx engines need to be replaced. If you have a blown head gasket I would recomend replacing both sides. Nothing is worse than replacing one side and finding out the other is also blow. They are no diffrenent as far as replacemend goes as a regular small block except the crossover pipe in the rear of the heads and it a a tighter to work on.

 

Yes, the head bolts are torque to yield.

 

What are the differce between LT1 and SBC head bolts?? None, When you torque the head bolt they are torqued to a specific amount such as 65 lb ft, LS are torqued to 45 then I believe 90 deg. Been a while cant remember, the reason the LS1's have to be replaced is when you turn them 90 they stretch a certain amount and render them unusabe.

 

I agree, its a total waste of time doing just one side, after taking off all that lot, your more than halfway there.
Its false economy for one, and if it does go later on, your winding up doing the same job, spending even more money, unless you really enjoy doing it.

 

If the original head bolts are not damaged, save the money you would have spent on a replacement set, and apply it toward a tube of PST thread sealant for those bolts.

I'd also vote for doing both heads at once. Then again, if it were mine, the heads would never go back with stock valves, stock springs, and probably would be a little lighter when I DID bolt them back on with the original head bolts. The aluminum LT1 heads were a bit restrictive in the inlet port height, valves, and bowl areas. It would be a good time to rectify that.

 

I would have to agree with everyone else, replace both of them, and if you can, put a little bit of money into them while they are off. And it is not mandatory to replace the bolts, it is only recommended.

 

Agreed here on all points given.

I would at minimum, have the heads checked by a machinist, hot tanked, and replace the valve seals and springs.