I got another starter to replace my HD unit since Ill be using a manual. The PN is, I think, 1988725. It appears to be similar to the later 90+ starters, but with a slightly different nose piece.

Question is, what are the PN's to the bolts I should use? The shank on the standard 3/8" bolts are too small. Is there a special set of mounting bolts that was used on the manual and later 90+ starters? Did they somehow switch to the metric ones?

 

i think they are metric.

 

My starter bolt holes where machined too far back so only stock starters work have enough reach. Guess that means im SOL.

 

Well, I picked up an LT1 starter from Advance. It was one of those that magically fall apart as soon as you touch it. The two bolts that anchor the motor to the drive housing where so grossly overtorqued that it stripped the threads. Anyway, just mounting the drive section/nose by itself I was able to determine that Id only have around 70% of the flywheel tooth face in contact with the pinion gear at its full travel.

What the hell am I supposed to do now? The bolt holes are so far back that I dont think any starter would work without serious mods.

 

Ok, so.... I guess Im going to have to buy a mini-starter and make my own mounting plate for it. I really wish the manual starter used standard bolts. Sort of seems counter-intuative to have the earlier manual cars have unique engine blocks with metric starter bolts

 

I don't think the blocks are any different- look up the bolts for that starter by application and see what you find.

How many engines have I yanked out of auto trans cars that still have the holes/threads and such on the driver's side of the block for the clutch linkage? Let me try to remember....... yes, it's coming back to me........ uh huh.......... got it!. ALL of them! Yes, all of them. The blocks are the same.

Now it's possible the bolts for that starter are special units with a fatter shank and "regular" SAE threads, but I doubt the threads in the block are any different.

 

Question is, which bolts? Im pretty sure I have the right starter. The starter definatly uses different bolts of some sort. I still dont know if itll work as it doesnt have quite as much reach as the auto, but at least unlike the LT1 I was able stuff a bunch of selective washers behind the commutator to move it up as far as itll safely go.

 

This is great... Called the dealer and they discontinued the long bolt for this application. I guess Ill have to use a hand crank to start it. It only takes 2-3 HP to turn a 350 over, but no worries.

Has anyone actually seen what these bolts look like? Do they really have a stepped shank?

 

Yes they really do.

Go to an auto parts store. Look in the Help! section. You'll find what you need. Screw the dealer. Screw a bunch of part numbers. That's almost like work; some kind of crazy talk.

Oftentimes posting on the Internet isn't near as effective as doing some actual physical research..... like placing your eyeball on the stuff you can buy at the store.

 

In New Jersey, the big box retail tax capitol of the world, there isnt much in the line of autoparts stores. Its either dealer or or internet if you need a part. Ive scoured all the Help! sections in the area (more like all of south jersey almost) and have yet to see more then maybe a generic ford starter bolt and maybe a set for a generic GM auto starter. I might as well have a Bugatti, its that hard to find parts around here sometimes.

 

Hey
I am doing the T5 swap on a ol 2piece rms 350 and the starter
I got didnt work at all its generic 1 long and 1 short bolt.
I found the bolts at a help section but still they where to long.
If I cant get the right starter this project is toast. THe block
was machined with 3 holes for the starter but maybe its to far back.
Some of the guys at the Gm parts store told me I might have to use
old cast iron nose starter?

Did the lt1 starter work?

 

I will only mention that you should not assume a bolt is "too long" when it comes to starters. You want a bolt with about 1/4" of it's shank sticking THROUGH the top of the starter body. Starter bolt threads in the block don't start until they are about 1/4" in the hole. That first quarter inch of shank is what positively lines up the starter to the block, kind of like a dowel pin with threads on top. No other bolt on a small block Chevy is like this.

Straight bolt pattern starters (in line, bolts of different lengths) are for smaller 153 tooth flywheels/flexplates.

Staggered bolt pattern starters (2 bolts offset front to back, but of the same length) are for larger 168 tooth flywheels/flexplates.