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easiest way to get the cam out

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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #1  
Batass's Avatar
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From: Benzie, MI
Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
easiest way to get the cam out

I dont have an engine hoist, so I was wondering which would be easier, pulling off front end parts or disconnecting the drive shaft and engine mounts and tilting the motor up?
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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From: Philly, PA
You can't tilt the motor up enough. You have to yank the accessories, radiator, A/C condenser, etc. I've never actually had to take the whole nose off a 3rd gen to get the cam out but by the time you're done it'll feel like you did. In-car cam changes are not the simplest job to do, yet I've done it many many times.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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I don't have an engine hoist either. Doesn't stop me from doing work that way though.

Rent one, and lift the motor. It's the cheapest easiest fastest way. You don't have to pull it all the way out, only just far enough that the cam will clear the radiator core support.

It's worth it.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #4  
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Remove the water pump, radiator,fan,loosen all the bolts on the pan (take out the front ones) remove the timing chain (all this after the intake is off) lift up the A/C cond. push the X-brace rods aside and pull it out. Not that bad really
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 03:10 PM
  #5  
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
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6pack.. it's the easiest way I know of




it's amazing what can be done with a 6pack of beer and who will accept that bribe
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 03:50 PM
  #6  
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From: St. Louis, Missouri
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 9 bolt Posi
Just as a side question, do you need to set #1 to TDC before you pull the cam out?

Not trying to take over the thread... just curious.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 03:57 PM
  #7  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally Posted by Dyno Don
Remove the water pump, radiator,fan,loosen all the bolts on the pan (take out the front ones) remove the timing chain (all this after the intake is off) lift up the A/C cond. push the X-brace rods aside and pull it out. Not that bad really
you beat me to it...

basicly you remove the obvious...then remove the two "X brace" rods, slide the cam most of the way out, then have a friend tilt the AC condensor out of the way as you get the last of it out.



sure it SOUNDS hard, but if you work on cars at all, it should take almost no time to do.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 04:07 AM
  #8  
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From: Benzie, MI
Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
I cant rent a hoist being in Germany, but ive done that before. You lost me there dyno don on the xbrace rods. You dont have to remove the radiator? Im in africa (****hole) right now for another week so I cant go out and look at it.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 06:11 AM
  #9  
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All of the sheet metal parts under the hood latch are in the way of getting the cam out. So yes, everything between the front of the motor and somewhere in the bumper cover, has to come out. There needs to be about 2 feet of clearance for the cam.

It's about the same amount of work either way to either pull the radiator, A/C condenser, and all that body stuff, as compared to disconnecting enough stuff to hoist the motor a few inches; but I find that it's a whole lot easier and quicker and less stressful on the back and legs and temper, to work on an engine that's somewhat out in the open where you can get at it and up near waist or chest level, than it is to bend over fenders and bumper covers and work on something all wrapped in sheet metal and 2 feet away and down around your knees for hours on end.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 07:48 AM
  #10  
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From: Southern IL
Car: 88 GTA "Cocaine"
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
get a long bolt that threads into the cam for leverage.

You do not want to knick the cam bearings!!!
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