Hey gang. I am new here so take it easy on the newbie! j/k. I have a problem that is driving me nuts. About 8 months ago my battery went dead so I bought a new one. Maybe 4 months later this battery is dead. I had it load-tested at a local auto parts store and it checked out. So, I brought it home, charged it up, two weeks later it's dead again. The dome light won't even come on. I drive the car about 1 1/2 hrs total per week by the way. Not even thinking that this new battery could be shot-regardless of what the test showed, I had my starter and alternator checked to make sure that there were no shorts. They both checked out as well. I could find no drain with my check light either. Frustrated, I took the whole damn car into a local armeteur shop only to have them tell me within minutes that my battery was bad. So...I took the battery to a local battery shop and THEY said it was, in fact, shot. Frickin' auto parts store ppl!! Anyway, with a new battery AGAIN, the damn thing went dead within two weeks time. Again I check for excessive drain with a check light. I found nothing. I am considering buying a multimeter to check in addition to the check light. Is it possible that I have purchsed two bad batteries in a row, or is there likely something else wrong here? When the battery is charged, sometimes the car just clicks when I turn the key. It will click a couple times, then fire right up-seeming like the battery is fully charged contrary to the clicking. Could it be another bad battery? Alternator?(even though it checked out) Ignition switch? Thanks

 

Put your car info in the sidebar. Year is most important for this question.


How are you main battery wires? good? corroded?

try putting a multi meter on the amp setting, between you battery, and main power wire, and see what current is being drawn, with everything shut off. Unplug your underhood light if there is one, so the car should be drawing 0 current. (unless a tiny bit to power the cd player memory).
speaking of, aftermarket stereo? (perhaps possible wiring "oopsie"?)

....how did you get your alternator tested, exactly?

 

if you have a power hatch motor they are well known to take a battery out when they start to go bad.

check the wires that go to the starter sometimes they can hit the exshaut manifold and cause problems

 

Does the alternator actually WORK when it's in the car? (Different issue from having it "checked"....) What's the voltage across the battery terminals with the car running?

 

start the car, disconnect battery leads, if car dies, change the alternator. if not get new terminals, they are probably not making good enough contact

 

D'ARGH!
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If your alternator was ok before that test, it would not be after however. IIRC, if you do that, you instantly blow the regulator or something on the alternator.

 

Yeah, its not 1960 anymore... Thats a good way to blow your regulator and send a massive voltage spike through the system...

 

So if you battery dies you blow your regulator. Same difference. Unlikely
Just use a dang mutimeter... you can get one for 5 bucks

 

Something to try...
When it's very quiet, like late at night, open the rear hatch and listen for the fuel pump (on a charged battery) - put ear on hump. I had a bad Oil Pressure Sending Unit on mine, and it would kill the battery in about 2-3 days because the fuel pump would run day and night, even with the key out of the ignition - drove me nuts until I heard it late one night running for all it was worth!

 

Ok, I am pretty sure the stereo is good to go. No problems with the install, and car has same problem when the fuse is disconnected. I am not really sure how the guy tested the alternator as I was browsing the store at the time, but wth the car off, the battery puts out 12.65 volts, and a steady 14.2 when the car runs at idle. How can I test for a faulty hatch motor? Also, wouldn't this have light up my test light if the motor was going out? Sorry I haven't gotten a meter yet, but I would think that my test light would detect a draw that big in nature. I haven't noticed the fuel pump running continuously either. If I turn on the ignition, it does what it should basedon everything I can hear. I really appreciate everybody's input so keep it coming. I think I am going to run and get a meter and have my battery tested AGAIN! Geesh I am tired of doing this.

 

You can get 12 volts all day long on a dead battery. You need to test for AMPs. Current is what starts the car not voltage.