Right now I have a 350 that was rebuilt about 15000 miles ago and I need more power. I am planning on getting a cast steel 383 crank from eagle. The heads on this engine are the originals from the 77 truck motor that is in the car now. The when looking at heads and cam choices I get confused at what I need to make the car run on pump gas. This car needs to be streetable. The car has a 2000 stall, long tubes and a 3 in exhaust.

The heads I am looking at are the scoggin dicky modified vortecs for .520 lift, with some 1.6 roller rockers. Would the edelbrock Performer RPM E-TEC heads be a better choice? Or is there a better budget head I am missing?

The cams I was looking at are the magnum 270h, the 280h Hydraulic Flat Tappet, or edelbrock performer rpm cam.

Would a 750 classic holly double pumper be a good choice to power this motor?

Thanks for the help.

 

2000RPM stall speed is virtually stock I think, not much of a change there. Might want to keep the cam small to match up with that.

Street driven car, want mileage and driveability, rather than all out power?

the modified vortecs would be a good bet, but i'd skip the 1.6 roller rockers, that .520" lift limit will hit you quite fast, you gotta stay under that. Look at 1.5 rockers.

None of the cams you listed are well suited to that. Those are all straight pattern cams IIRC, except the edelbrock, which is simply garbage.
A split pattern will work best in a factory cast vortec setup. Unless you're willing to go ahead and port the heads, specifically the exhaust side...

Either way, i'd look at the compxe268, lunati voodoo 60103, or the crane Z cam in that range (223/228 sorta duration @.050").

Due to the small stall speed, perhaps even one step smaller then those, the xe262 or lunati 60102, etc.

Shoot for 9.5:1 compression. With a 383, and 64 cc heads like that, make sure you get the right pistons to hit that ratio. It's pretty easy to get your CR too high on stroker motor.

That carb should work just peachy.

 

I am wanting more power and am not worried very much about gas milage as long as it can get above 12 mpg in town its ok, becuase I do not rely on the car to commute every day. It is also alright if the motor has to run 92 octane, cant you run like 11 to 1 cr with pump gas?

I am not sure which pistons are in the motor because the motor was rebuilt when I got the car. But when I dismantled the motor they looked like regular pistons with the small grooves for the valves. Since I do not know what pistons I have would I be better off replacing them?

 

You cannot put a stroker crank into the engine without replacing either the rods with shorter, or the pistons with new ones with a higher pin heights, or the pistons will be sticking out of the top of the block at TDC. Sorry, but if you didn't know that, you should probably find someone with more experience locally to help you out. I agree with Sonix, go with a smaller cam, the modern hyd' rollers from Comp and Crane are very impressive, and will kill the Edelbrock with less lift and duration. Vortec or E-tec heads will require a different intake manifold, so remember to include that in your budget. Either heads will work nicely, but the Vortecs aren't such a smokin' deal when you include the machine work and valve springs, labor, etc.

 

I think i'm one of few people who don't even mention the "added cost" of an intake manifold when going to a vortec setup.
I mean, who beefs up a motor (non-vortec), and keeps the stock intake anyway? Usually people do something like a performer RPM. So, rather, use the vortec version. Making it a non issue as far as added cost.

anywho...
Yes, you will have to use new pistons to go to a stroker setup. Since the motor has already been rebuilt, hope that they didn't bore it out too far, as you may need an overbore now. Probably not, but maybe.

You can re-use the rods in the motor now, but you may not want to. Your call.

Get a 383 stroker crankshaft, rather than buying a 400cid crank, and having to pay to get the mains machined. This is kinda obvious, but in case you didn't know - now you do.

No, shoot for 9.5:1. If you're an ace tuner, or live at 5000' altitude, or use hi tech fuel injection, aluminum heads, etc, then you can go up to 11:1. Iron heads, sea level, non-tuning expertise - keep it safe. Very small HP gain, big risk gain, going up in compression, keep that in mind.

 

My father is going to be helping me with the motor and he has rebuilt several, but never does anything other than making them run correctly in stock form. So I am confident if we got the correct parts we could get the motor together.

So after a little bit of research, I believe a 5.7 inch rod is needed correct? Is an H or an I beam better? Would these keith black KB135.030 pistons what I am looking for?

Thanks again guys for the help

 

5.7" would work. You can set the motor up any way you like, but 5.7" is most common.
H is stronger than I beam generally. You can tell which is better by the price.
you don't know if a .030" piston is what you want in there yet, until you tear it down and get a machinist check that for ya.
Post a link to the piston, i'm lazy.

 

Here are the specs on those pistons

# 383ci Performance Pistons, 350 Block w/400 Crank, .030'' Overbore Piston Dia.: 4.030''
# Piston Top: -18cc Dish, Valve Reliefs
# Comp Ratio: 10.3:1 w/58cc Heads, 8.7:1 w/76cc Heads

Pistons with around these specs are what I am looking for correct?

 

haha, yes, but it didn't list the spec for with 64cc eh?
Remember your piston depth, to calculate the CR as well.